rust!! how to control it?

[r3run33]

Hello after doing brakes and fixing a heat shield rattle (original just rusted away) I was seeing some surface rust on various parts of the under body. Has anyone using anything which has worked or has any recommendations on how to control this stuff?? I found this product which is suppose to control it for aprox 1000 hours;

Eastwood Rubberized Rust Encapsulator Undercoating - Black Aerosol



anyone ever use it before?

the area i'm most concerned with is the panel above the exhaust is that the floor pan?? 2006 lx470 73k miles purchased back in oct 2005 northeast usa so lots of the winter brime stuff to deal with.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Search around in the body section, lots of good info. I would hit what you can with a flapper and use something like POR15.

 

[2000UZJ]

Sanding wheel, POR15. Wash the underside off weekly with fresh water if you live on the ocean or up north. Repaint and areas ASAP before they spread.

 

[APKhaos]

Sand, POR15, and optionally spray on some rubberized undercoating for extra protection.

 

[lcmariani]

Rust bullet paint. Hands down best stuff money can buy. I painted the whole bottom of the lc. See below info.

 

[lcmariani]

From their website:



Rust Bullet out performs all the other major rust prevention products in the market place today like POR15 and Rustoleum etc. This is not a mere statement but a scientifically proven fact and many major international laboratories vouch for the fact.
POR 15 requires a four-step application process including the necessary purchase of additional products to achieve an inferior result as compared to Rust Bullet, which has only a one-step two coat application process that achieves a superior result. POR15 paint covers 350 sq ft with one gallon while Rust Bullet covers 400 sq ft with one gallon. Mil for Mil Rust Bullet is tougher. Note, 4 mils is equal to a sheet of regular copy paper.
POR15 has high maintenance cost and questionable longevity, while Rust bullet has low maintenance cost and when properly applied will stop or kill rust for over 10 years.


Rust Bullet is undoubtedly a better and more effective choice as compared to other rust prevention products available in the market. This cost effective product has many uses and is therefore customized for residential or farm uses, commercial or industrial uses and automobile uses. Rust Bullet products take care of your metal objects and appliances by providing rust prevention and rust repair as well as providing a long-term solution to rust corrosion.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

I've used Eastwoods rust encapsulator, rust converter and chassis black paint. It all depends on how you apply it. I used a wire brush on an angle grinder to scrape away as much of the rust as I could, then used rust converter then rust encapsulator. It didn't hold up.

On some spots up front I just went with a simpler approach. Wire brush, then sprayed the area down with self etching paint prep chemicals I picked up at homedepot and let it sit over night. Then hosed it off in the morning. When it was dry I used Rust Encapsulator. It's held up great. The self etching paint prep seems to be some sort of muriatic acid that dissolves the rust.

 

[r2m]

Best method to control rust is to move to California!

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Best method to control rust is to move to California!

Oh yeah, I did that too!

 

[Mxndrnks]

Best method to control rust is to move to California!

Unless you are a block and a half off the beach....then you still have rust...

 

[r3run33]

Thanks for the info; klaus do you remember what the stuff was from hmedepo?

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

It's in my garage somewhere. I'll take a look. It's this green liquid that came in a gallon or so container that you have to dilute some. ETching something.

Ah this is it 1-Gallon Phosphoric Prep and Etch-GKPA30220 at The Home Depot

It says none toxic but I'd avoid breathing in the fumes if you can. It seemed very similar to "Magic Acid" that you use in pools but is a safer version of muriatic acid.

 

[r2m]

Unless you are a block and a half off the beach....then you still have rust...

Actually, we live across the street from the beach, but I try to keep my rig washed and clean all the time.
No rust yet on either me or my wife's 1998 100's. She's had her's for about 11 years and I've had mine about 1.5 years.

 

[Mxndrnks]

Finally back to a computer instead of my phone... I used the 3 part Eastwood system last year and repainted everything on the underside. A ton of work. Overall it has held up. But any place that sees gravel/dirt get thrown up like the front side of the rear axle has not held up as good as I hoped for. I already have surface rust back there. Same thing on the underside of my sliders, rear sway bar, etc. Overall, I would say the Eastwood system, converter, encapsulator, extreme Chassis Black would be a good system for an on-road car. But, the dirt and small rocks that get thrown up by the front tires when running FS roads and desert will beat up the new paint pretty quick.

Next round I will go with rust bullet and then figure out a more heavy duty final coat that can handle the debirs better.....

Actually, we live across the street from the beach, but I try to keep my rig washed and clean all the time.
No rust yet on either me or my wife's 1998 100's. She's had her's for about 11 years and I've had mine about 1.5 years.

Man... you are lucky! I had crazy amounts of rust come up when I was living 5 miles from the beach up in San Francisco. I went through all the work last year to fix it and it is starting to creep back in. Heck, I put brand new liscense plate screws in the factory location and after a month they had surface rust on them.....

I mean I wash her every couple of weeks or so.... but, I am not getting the love of no rust.....

 

[odessit]

I would add FluidFilm spray before winter. It goes on easy and gets good coverage. 3-4 cans for LC100. Last winter was very mild so it is hard to say how much it helped for sure. Based on my research - it should not hurt to put it on. Aside from the fact that you have to get the car up.

POR15 is definitely better than RustOleum. But it is not perfect either. Perhaps it is on top of me not doing perfect prep, so your results could be better.

 

[shogun2fire]

POR15 is some crazy stuff. I'd use that instead of any of the over the counter sprays.

 

[r3run33]

thanks for all the input; gonna get the prep stuff and try to do some this weekend will take some better before and after shots and then keep and eye on a spot and see how it holds up

 

[mainecruiser]

I am going to second the use of fluid film as the best preventative maintenance for rust prevention, protection and spread arrest. I live in Maine where the use of salt and brine solutions is common practice in winter. I have a 99 that I have owned since 04. Staring using fluid film two years ago and it has effectively halted any rust progression on the undercarriage (wish I started using it in 04). It is a quality product (designed for use or farm equipment exposed to harsh chemical fertilizers) that I would suggest on any "rust belt" cruiser. Use it annually in the fall, brave the week of strong odor from the product and you'll reduce rust and rust spread.
The other key to keeping rust at bay is making sure that the drains located behind the front wheel wells are clear. I had some rust forming behind my front tires (around the seam where the body panels join). I removed my mud flaps (my running boards have been removed and OEM mud flaps installed) and the plastic wheel well shroud and discovered about a lb of wet mud laying in the body panel on both sides. I removed it, flushed the panels and cleared the drains that are located in the cavity (I sprayed a hose in there to flush them out). These drains need to be clear or wet content will build up and cause decay. Dried out the cavity, sprayed some rustoleum and closed them back up and reinstalled the flaps. I treated the exterior rust with por 15 and touch up paint and the spread is halted.
The only other areas I have had problems with are the bottom side of the top tailgate (around latch and drain holes) and left side of the gas fill cover. The tailgate has been a steady dose of sandpaper, por15 and factory touch up paint. Under control and not a problem. The gas fill area is new. I will remove the left rear tire wheel well shroud this spring. I suspect I will find another stash of wet mud/debris that once removed, dried out and treated will no longer be a problem (not sure if there is a drain there or not).
My vehicle has 173k and lived its first 5 yrs in IL. It has been it salt it's whole life. I have been impressed with the durability overall, but they also thwart rust very well. The key is preventative maintenance. I suggest fluid film from day 1, great product. That and keep the drains clear. Address any rust spots with interior investigation, address moisture and treat exterior with sanding, por 15 and touch up paint.
And by the way....my 03 w/76k is being delivered tomorrow. Pics to follow.

 

[dogdaysindurham]

mainecruiser,
Did you use the aerosol can or did you get like an cup sprayer? I used up my aerosol can (only got one to test it out) and have a 1 gallon can that I meant to put on before the winter, but didnt get a chance to. I was hoping to use my Puma 12V compressor with the cup sprayer?

 

[mainecruiser]

I had the work done at local shop. He uses the product in bulk and applies with a paint spray gun. Not sure what kind though.