Rust - Body mount issue (1 Viewer)

[BTLSHP]

I was under the car yesterday trying to figure out if I could replace the rear most heater pipes for the rear heater. (Any help here would be appreciated - retaining the rear heat is a priority with my father)

At the time, I discovered the front passenger side body mount in this condition:

The rest are in much better shape with just surface rust. My question is should I replace this one alone? or in a pair with the other side?

Can I do it myself without a major effort or will I have to loosen a whole side to fit in the replacement? Partsouq looks as if the parts are "Not Available." I suspect the time to do this is when the seats are out for re-covering.

The "budget" probably can't handle a replacement of all of the cushions and mounts at this point.

Thanks,

Doug

 

[Fj80oregon]

This thread has some good info and part numbers.

Replacing body mounts with a full set of new factory ones (no lift).

One job I've considered for yonks is replacing all the body mounts. Mine are originals so 29 yrs old and I know the two front ones are no good. I'm not interested in a body lift - just want to replace the factory mounts with all new factory mounts. I think it's possible to do it one side at a...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[BTLSHP]

So, it seems like like my options might be:

New bolt, nuts and washer and do nothing beyond remove the old bolt and drop the new one through and put it back together.

Replacing the cushion suggests that I will be loosening all the mounts and lifting one side?

 

[baldilocks]

I scribbled down here what all the part numbers are to totally renew that body mount. You will definitely need to unbolt all mounts on the passenger side and it would be a good idea to loosen the mount bolts in the driver side. All this can open a can of worms that will have you considering replacing all mounts and hardware. If you have any questions or can not read what I wrote contact me through PM.

@BTLSHP

 

[BTLSHP]

THANK YOU!

Yes, every little project that gets near rubber opens that proverbial "well if I am already there."

I will at last start spraying some PB Blaster....and order these.

 

[RC51]

I recently replaced all the body mounts on my truck with this set:

8.4113 | Body Mount Set | 1991-1997 Toyota Landcruiser

As an upgrade or a replacement for your restoration project, polyurethane body mounts for the 1991-1997 Toyota Landcruiser – 8.4113 will bridge the gap between ride quality and performance. | Energy Suspension

www.energysuspensionparts.com

you may have to talk to their customer service. Their instructions on the site is pretty good. Probably easier to pull one off from an old truck if your goal is to replace just one.

But if you do it, I would just replace all the body mounts, since they all have to be should be loose to replace just one.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If budget is tight, just relace the rusted washer and corresponding nut and bolt.

Add the others to the never ending todolist/wishlist all 80s owners have.
Prioritise per your own flavour of MudOCD

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Rear heater lines are a pain to replace. I've done it on a 1994 fzj80 but the engine was out ls swap. The factory hard lines were available not sure about now.
Tommy

 

[baldilocks]

THANK YOU!

Yes, every little project that gets near rubber opens that proverbial "well if I am already there."

I will at last start spraying some PB Blaster....and order these.

By the looks of the photo you posted, hardware will be you big concern on that 80. The rubber does compress and become more dense but doesn’t seem to crack and fall apart at least not in 80 that have lived out west. Good luck with your endeavor.

 

[BTLSHP]

@baldilocks

Your observation fits what I am seeing on the various bushings. Brake lines were another matter. We had a friend who runs a body shop in town give it a once over. There was minor rust where a poor windshield replacement let water in and there is an area around the passenger inner fender liner near one of the bolts for the air filter housing. It has signs of a wax like rust product, but I have known it since I picked it up at the dealer and have no record of rust treatment.

But yes, I approach every bolt underneath with rust in mind. Big bits of metal have surface rust or rust along welds. I am not certain what I will do there. I had to remove the rear tire by taking off the support brace. It was not too bad in that area. The friend said "you are going to have a big problem in 30 years." I may treat the underside again with a wax like product and use a 3M cavity treatment. It has been cleaned up since that time. I am going to do more work around the diff, especially the little stuff in the upper left.

Fortunately it is headed to Denver where I understand the climate in semi-arid.

@mudgudgeon

I may do just that for the moment. The project foreman and current owner insists on new leather and I have reserved $3,400 for that project.

I am going to set up the rear heater hoses with some Gates Green Stripe for the time being. If I don't like the result I will hand my daughter the "by-pass" kit with instructions not to tell her grandparents.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Sounds like you're treating this 80 well

I hope your daughter looks after it.

My aunt and uncle bought a late 90s Nissan Patrol new. My uncle always serviced it meticulously. It travelled all over Australia while they had it.
They passed it on to their adventure focused daughter when it was about 15 years old and with 400k km In it.
She drove the wheels of it adventuring all around eastern Australia for another 10+ years, and put another 400k km on it. Crazy how solid that truck was with 800k km on it. All original running gear.

She moved to USA to study long term. Not sure what happened to it then.

 

[BTLSHP]

Sounds like you're treating this 80 well

I hope your daughter looks after it.

My aunt and uncle bought a late 90s Nissan Patrol new. My uncle always serviced it meticulously. It travelled all over Australia while they had it.
They passed it on to their adventure focused daughter when it was about 15 years old and with 400k km In it.
She drove the wheels of it adventuring all around eastern Australia for another 10+ years, and put another 400k km on it. Crazy how solid that truck was with 800k km on it. All original running gear.

She moved to USA to study long term. Not sure what happened to it then.

My mom learned how to drive Harley's at Ayers Rock (Uluru now)..... The took an FJ60 to China but it could not come back so they drove it from some godforsaken place to Katmandu to sell it. This is the replacement to the FJ60 and she is their spiritual successor.

This past spring the car became a set piece to a documentary North Face and Tension Climbing is making of one of her adventures. I will post a link to it when it is released. Two tiny girls and their big red truck should be the title. Her S/O builds rocket engines - literally so there is basic mechanical capability. The car will get a slot in the garage. My hope is it will be in good shape but we will underwrite a head gasket or Birfields if need be, seems fair.

 

[mudgudgeon]

That's awesome.

There's a few crazy adventurous women in my family.

 

[Kernal]

Hard to tell from the one photo but there appears to be a line or two (?cracks) in that body/cab support bracket. Might need some attention once you've got the hardware out of the way for a better look at the extent of the corrosion. May need to disconnect the exhaust if that bracket needs welding (or replacement)??

​

Find the red arrows:

Frame components for reference:

 

[BTLSHP]

Off topic:

The Landcruiser became the interview set piece for this adventure. Both these kids can do five finger tip only pull-ups carrying 60 pounds. Works wonders for free drinks in bars....

 

[BTLSHP]

I suspect that as is normal I have under estimated this task. I have the cushion and the nuts, but as I look it occurs to me the only way to do this is peel back the passenger carpet and pull the bolt up through so I can slide the new hardware in horizontally.

Am I missing anything in the process? Is there a risk of the body/frame relationship coming out of line if this is the only one I am doing? I think I will order the new bolt before I begin.

I am am also going to take a closer look at the two lines Kernal was concerned about on the photo of the bracket.

90105-90017

 

[baldilocks]

The body should remain in place while you Jack it up only a couple inches or maybe 3. But, you do need to remove the nuts from the other 4 mounts. Yes the carpet needs to come up. The rear most mount bolt head is accessed through the trapezoidal plastic body plug furthest to the passenger side.