Rust behind mud flaps- sell and move on? (1 Viewer)

[D21FJ60]

@mezger996 re: keep or replace.... it's up to you really, its the old devil you know vs devil you don't - you know your truck and maintenance history of it.
You state you don't want to spend more except for maintenance, but will it cost you less to maybe have someone cut and weld new patches into those areas vs. time spent looking at replacements, obtaining replacements, dealing with the surprises from said replacement?

If it really is a beater, then do whatever the minimum is necessary to keep it (somewhat) safely on the road.

Or, spend the $ on a replacement beater.

Or, keep it and buy another one, because 2 is 1 and 1 is none.

edit: found link I bookmarked where someone addresses this and the rear body rust:

New guy build thread

After a few weeks of reading all I could on the 100 series, deciding that it would be my next vehicle, I set out to purchase one before winter hits here in Detroit. From prior experience with cool-but-aged cars, I figured it would be best to get an inexpensive winter 'beater' version of the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[mezger996]

Yes definitely! That’s the tough part. The maintenance and mechanicals are tip top.

In the last 2-3 years, aluminum radiator, heater tees, timing belt/water pump/thermostat, fan clutch and bracket, 4 new AHC shocks, slee brake lines, fuel pump, SAI pump bypass kit, brakes, so it’s definitely been treated well

It’s unfortunately the Porsche “preventative” maintenance in me haha

 

[Trapper50cal]

Shore up what you can and keep it. The knowledge of the condition is pretty valuable. Don't look at it as an equity proposition,
look at it as a vehicular requirement solution. And a "Smiles Per Mile" solution.

 

[97 AZ LC]

Respectfully, without trying to drag this out...it is important to represent the correct info for this thread. It's not about elevation or annual moisture levels, it's about RH...relative humidity. It's very dry here in southern Colorado, in all of Colorado, actually. The Rockies go through NM as well. Yes, there's a big difference in climates but just because it's not 115º in the shade up here doesn't mean we aren't in the Southwest. As to how cars age, again, it's about average relative humidity, but it's also about how roads are managed during the winter. To my knowledge we don't salt our roads, but we DO use Mag Chloride so there is that. But by and large, cars age very similarly in both locations.

I too respectfully disagree. That's like saying a Denver car is like a Phoenix car or Palm Springs car. The difference between them is substantial, especially at age 20 and up. I'm not saying Colorado mountain cars are terrible, they might be better than southeastern U.S or western coastal cars but they're not in a league with true desert southwest cars when it comes to rust. I've exported several hundred 30 to 60 year old Mercedes to picky German collectors over the last 25 years and learned the difference between a desert car and a mountain car early on.

 

[Trapper50cal]

I too respectfully disagree. That's like saying a Denver car is like a Phoenix car or Palm Springs car. The difference between them is substantial, especially at age 20 and up. I'm not saying Colorado mountain cars are terrible, they might be better than southeastern U.S or western coastal cars but they're not in a league with true desert southwest cars when it comes to rust. I've exported several hundred 30 to 60 year old Mercedes to picky German collectors over the last 25 years and learned the difference between a desert car and a mountain car early on.

Whatevs...Denver is 7 hours north of us, so I'm closer to Sedona than Denver. Your appeal to authority is duly noted.

 

[Kabanstva]

This technically is the beater lol. I have a 2001 996 turbo in addition to this. My mechanic said that if I got a cayenne it would be in for issues, but that the cruiser will rust. Pick your poison. Assuming the 200 series and LX equivalents also have this issue? Obviously they are newer

All Toyota and Lexus rust. I can upload a few pics of a 2014 LX570 I have. Bought in Tennessee. Completely rust free. I have pics what one chicago winter did to this thing (no fluid film or any type of undercoating). 40k mile car.

 

[mezger996]

Assuming it’s just their body on frame cars?

 

[Kabanstva]

Assuming it’s just their body on frame cars?

Absolutely NOT. I’ve had multiple Toyota and Lexus cars over the years. LS, GS, ISF, Siennas, ESs, Avalons. They all have rust issues. Doesn’t matter what year, the newer stuff is just more fresh. Same s***ty undercarriage prep/coatings from the factory.

 

[mezger996]

 

[Kabanstva]

Buy a rust free Land Cruiser and just park it between November-May. That’s what I do. Buy another car you don’t care about for a winter beater. Problem solved.

 

[Kabanstva]

OR just enjoy the one you already have. Those lower quarter panel areas are not that big of a deal. You’ll get another easy decade of service out of it even if you didn’t spray it with fluid film.

 

[mezger996]

I think Carmax would give me 8400, Carvana 10,400….could definitely get more privately, but not bad numbers in my opinion.

 

[mezger996]

I’ll need new tires by spring so that’s 1k minimum, possibly some fresh ball joints soon…so best to either sh** or get off the pot haha

 

[ninedude]

@mezger996 re: keep or replace.... it's up to you really, its the old devil you know vs devil you don't - you know your truck and maintenance history of it.
You state you don't want to spend more except for maintenance, but will it cost you less to maybe have someone cut and weld new patches into those areas vs. time spent looking at replacements, obtaining replacements, dealing with the surprises from said replacement?

If it really is a beater, then do whatever the minimum is necessary to keep it (somewhat) safely on the road.

Or, spend the $ on a replacement beater.

Or, keep it and buy another one, because 2 is 1 and 1 is none.

edit: found link I bookmarked where someone addresses this and the rear body rust:

New guy build thread

After a few weeks of reading all I could on the 100 series, deciding that it would be my next vehicle, I set out to purchase one before winter hits here in Detroit. From prior experience with cool-but-aged cars, I figured it would be best to get an inexpensive winter 'beater' version of the...

forum.ih8mud.com

I am the new guy that started that thread!
It's fitting to discuss here because I sold the car and bought one that is rust free. It was approximately 2 times the price, probably 3 once I factor in some other expenses related to the purchase.

I think there are merits to both approaches.

If I could have kept them both and designated one as a winter beater I probably would have done that. Especially if I was a high mileage driver with a daily commute.

Once you have reached a point that you have to address body damage rust, it's a whole different scenario. Unfortunately mine had reached that point. A quote to fix just that one spot, was between 1500 and 3000, not including rubberizing the wheel well and doing the paint. This was the one place in the state I trusted to do the work. I got a lower quote of 1100 from a guy who I think was just gonna patch it up.

Fluid film / wool wax can prevent if you are diligent about it's application. Like, you get into every single rocker panel etc, drilling if necessary. The rust repair place I went to, that applies wool wax, the guy that owns that company has a 90s pick up truck with 300k miles that looks like it spent its life in the pacific northwest. I looked all over / under it and was astounded at how good of shape it was in.

Having said that, I was prepared to bite the bullet and restore everything for the 99 I bought. I just had a last minute opportunity to bail and took it. If that one for sale hadn't come my way, I would have been (relatively) happy to repair the damage and move on and enjoy the vehicle. I wanted some features of a newer model to boot.

Honestly I think it's awesome to keep things running as long as possible, and welding together and repairing rust damage where necessary. That is what I will do with this car.

But it's so much nicer to start with a clean slate. I think it would come down to how much you want to take on another project, or your financial circumstances. These trucks have enough age that there's no avoiding looming maintenance. And trucks in the rust free areas sell for quite a bit more from what I've seen.

We live in a world where we can trade money for peace of mind. That's basically your option here! I think having pictures of the rest of the vehicle would help a lot.

 

[Trapper50cal]

I’ll need new tires by spring so that’s 1k minimum, possibly some fresh ball joints soon…so best to either sh** or get off the pot haha

Hey, if you need lower ball joints, I have a set of NIB Sankei 555 LBJ's for my '99 that I didn't end up needing because the PO had just put 555's in before I bought it (The real Japanese ones, not the Chinese knock-offs) . Check to see if they're the same for the different model years, if they are and you end up not selling, I'll make you a smokin' deal on them.

Edit: Looks like they are the same, but upper and lower are only $135 through Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters...

Ball Joint Kit - Fits 1998 - 2007 IFS 100/LX470 Applications (SUS100BJKIT)

Toyota Land Cruiser Ball Joint

cruiserteq.com

 

[Eyedaho]

Hey, if you need lower ball joints, I have a set of NIB Sankei 555 LBJ's for my '99 that I didn't end up needing because the PO had just put 555's in before I bought it (The real Japanese ones, not the Chinese knock-offs) . Check to see if they're the same for the different model years, if they are and you end up not selling, I'll make you a smokin' deal on them.

Edit: Looks like they are the same, but upper and lower are only $135 through Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters...

Ball Joint Kit - Fits 1998 - 2007 IFS 100/LX470 Applications (SUS100BJKIT)

Toyota Land Cruiser Ball Joint

cruiserteq.com

If he passes then I'll take them off your hands.

 

[mezger996]

You can take them! Haha not needed just yet. Thanks to everyone regarding the info. Looks like the ball is really in my court regarding what to do. Keep and potentially put more $ in, or fresh slate and less headache

 

[mezger996]

It’s honestly a very stressful decision as I very well could get another 100,000 out of the car. Even if it’s a few thousand of maintenance it may be worth it Looking around at other examples, my car has so much maintenance done. Time for a beer
Here are some pics

 

[ninedude]

Is the rust creeping up the body between the bumper and the trim above it?
That was the death knell for me being able to stall or repair the damage cost effectively. It had creeped up so high that it was going to get into a main body panel repair / paint, which threw the scale of the repair into the stratosphere.

Based on what I am seeing, I would absolutely ride with that one unless you are really excited about a new project. I would have felt differently if it had the panels rusting out... like how is the tailgate hatch, and the spots around the doors?

 

[mezger996]

I’ve had some body panels repaired over the years, along with the tailgate and dog legs. It’s coming back a bit but the body isn’t awful at all.