- Thread starter
- #41
It’s really just by the mudflaps that it’s eating at the body, that’s the worst. Not a ton of 07 models around to choose from in decent shape, so might be a good idea to keep.
Rust behind mud flaps- sell and move on? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mezger996
- Start date
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Oh, I missed the part where it was a 2007! I thought this was an older model and you were thinking of upgrading as well. If I were in your situation I would 100% keep that thing going as long as possible. There is no better model to sink your money into as far as I'm concerned. And she will be battle hardened! You could easily spend an additional 10-20 grand to end up in a situation not that different then this one!
If the rust has not climbed up the sides above the bumper I would make sure you do everything possible to keep it from getting to that point.
I think if you remove the back bumper and cut out the rot, you can really slow things down. The rot gets really bad there because once you have perforated the wheel well, the sludge can just sit on the parts that are left and wick up.
If the rust has not climbed up the sides above the bumper I would make sure you do everything possible to keep it from getting to that point.
I think if you remove the back bumper and cut out the rot, you can really slow things down. The rot gets really bad there because once you have perforated the wheel well, the sludge can just sit on the parts that are left and wick up.
- Thread starter
- #43
Yes 2007 haha! I took pics of the tailgate and dog legs on the last post of page 2. It’s too bad. It was a Minnesota and Wisconsin truck before this, but still a desirable 07 model
Exactly what I think.
- Thread starter
- #45
Really appreciate everyone’s support…I’ll definitely be keeping it 
As much of a Porsche guy I am, it seems no SUV does it for me like a Land Cruiser. Sometimes I enjoy it more than the 911 haha
As much of a Porsche guy I am, it seems no SUV does it for me like a Land Cruiser. Sometimes I enjoy it more than the 911 haha
Keep it, fix and keep up with rust as needed. Everything will rust when you put it in road salt and brine. Don’t import a rust free 100 because it will rust once you start using it during winter.
It’s just a vehicle, not a museum piece.
It’s just a vehicle, not a museum piece.
After reading through this, I don’t think I saw anyone question whether or not any of the cross members are rusty. It was mentioned the rear bumper crossmember can get rusty, but the crossmember above the axle as well as the crossmember in line with the sway bar and links can get very rusty as well. That and the transmission crossmember starting to delaminate. Those would be my decision makers.
Here is my perspective. I bought a 2000 Land Cruiser that had a little bit of rust in the same areas I’ve mentioned and I did a minimal amount of remediation with sanding and paint but should’ve done much more. Any areas that were remediated did not rust but any areas that were untreated started to rust significantly. This includes that i did not treat inside of cavities. It was at that point of seeing rapid rust a few years later that we started deliberately applying fluid film and it basically stopped any rust to areas where it was applied as long as it was surface rust, and not already delaminating. every cavity of the vehicle inside and out was sprayed. There is a stark difference in areas that are treated versus areas that are not treated. It’s needed welding, and needs more. It runs great but is not really worth investing in.
Contrast this to having an 06 LX 470 purchased from the south and treated with fluid film immediately before it ever saw any salt or brine solution. I am in Maryland and although we don’t get tons of snow, they do apply tons of Brine anytime it’s below freezing and might hint of a mist of water. There is not one spec of rust on the lx and it’s got 260k miles on it.
So while some people may be of the opinion that it will rust anyway, I would suggest that you find every single area inside and out that has rust and treat it with something like an Eastwood rust converter. You can also choose to paint the areas accessible to you. After (cause it will be difficult to paint after fluid film) that I would apply fluid film inside and out. It’s not very hard and you will do a much better job than a professional service and don’t have to drill holes. Only areas that are exposed to the elements will need re-application of the fluid film Yearly. For about $50-$100 a year you will keep the truck in much better condition and for MUCH longer. For many of the people saying that their trucks are rusty because they live in rusty areas, my question would be is have those trucks been treated yearly and properly and if so, are they less rusty than they otherwise would be. The answer will be yes. Lastly, whenever the temperature is above freezing, and there might be salt on the car, that’s the time to wash it off, because regardless of your location on earth, rising temperatures hold more water in the air at the same relative humidity.
This will help with salt, humidity, and sand which is salty.
The past few weeks was treatment of that 2000. A friend has it and that’s why it was not treated early. This year was a year of treating everything accessible inside and out, but it does need some welding…:/
Hope this helps.
Here is my perspective. I bought a 2000 Land Cruiser that had a little bit of rust in the same areas I’ve mentioned and I did a minimal amount of remediation with sanding and paint but should’ve done much more. Any areas that were remediated did not rust but any areas that were untreated started to rust significantly. This includes that i did not treat inside of cavities. It was at that point of seeing rapid rust a few years later that we started deliberately applying fluid film and it basically stopped any rust to areas where it was applied as long as it was surface rust, and not already delaminating. every cavity of the vehicle inside and out was sprayed. There is a stark difference in areas that are treated versus areas that are not treated. It’s needed welding, and needs more. It runs great but is not really worth investing in.
Contrast this to having an 06 LX 470 purchased from the south and treated with fluid film immediately before it ever saw any salt or brine solution. I am in Maryland and although we don’t get tons of snow, they do apply tons of Brine anytime it’s below freezing and might hint of a mist of water. There is not one spec of rust on the lx and it’s got 260k miles on it.
So while some people may be of the opinion that it will rust anyway, I would suggest that you find every single area inside and out that has rust and treat it with something like an Eastwood rust converter. You can also choose to paint the areas accessible to you. After (cause it will be difficult to paint after fluid film) that I would apply fluid film inside and out. It’s not very hard and you will do a much better job than a professional service and don’t have to drill holes. Only areas that are exposed to the elements will need re-application of the fluid film Yearly. For about $50-$100 a year you will keep the truck in much better condition and for MUCH longer. For many of the people saying that their trucks are rusty because they live in rusty areas, my question would be is have those trucks been treated yearly and properly and if so, are they less rusty than they otherwise would be. The answer will be yes. Lastly, whenever the temperature is above freezing, and there might be salt on the car, that’s the time to wash it off, because regardless of your location on earth, rising temperatures hold more water in the air at the same relative humidity.
This will help with salt, humidity, and sand which is salty.
The past few weeks was treatment of that 2000. A friend has it and that’s why it was not treated early. This year was a year of treating everything accessible inside and out, but it does need some welding…:/
Hope this helps.
This. I really don't understand the defeatist attitude of some people - "It will rust anyway no matter what!". No it won't, not if you properly maintain it with the likes of fluid film and wash off the salt when needed. The goal here is to make sure the frame outlasts the engine and when the mileage is in seven figures - then you can consider retiring the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #49
Yes, thankfully those areas are decent on my car. Only things that I may need to do soon is the hard brake lines that go from the reservoir down into the firewall. They are “coiled” at the bottom, starting to get a bit rusty. Truly have never owned an SUV which I’ve bonded with so much, it’s just great in every way.
- Thread starter
- #50
Does anyone know if the brake booster/accumulator was improved for the 2006/2007 models or all the same across the 100 series? Pondering the idea of putting a new one on after I hit 200k for peace of mind
It’s really random when they go bad, this might be anecdotal but trucks in non rusty states their brake boosters lasts longer. I had a rusty truck failed at 130k miles and I’ve had several non rusty ones that’s over 250k and has not failed.
Your truck is beautiful, makes me sad to see it rusty like that
- Thread starter
- #52
Thanks! I absolutely love it, and will make repairs and put money in as needed. Will probably get a few more years out of it before I upgrade to a 200 series.
If you treat and protect it, it will last another ten plus years easy. No treatment and the rust will be insurmountable in 4-5 in a rusty heavily salted region
Post pics of the frame, what does it look like?
