I want to see the bottom of your cap!
Running warm, looking for theories
- Thread starter LTrain
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- Thread starter
- #42
Sorry for the delay friends, I had to work late last night. I have four photos to share: The first two are the underside of my rad cap, the third is of my dipstick, and the fourth is of the coolant that came out when I changed the TStat.
To me the oil looks fine. I would recommend changing the radiator,... while you are at it throw on a new water pump. I would not be surprised if that solves your problem
Did you find out what the problem is?
- Thread starter
- #45
Thanks for checking. I took the oil sample today for Blackstone Labs. I drove it for about 5-7 minutes around the neighborhood to warm the oil and it was up to just North of 200F again. While I was at it I ran it some more in the driveway to see if there was any movement in the radiator and there is none; just the distilled water from when I last topped it off after changing the thermostat. I dont want to buy anything until the anaylsis comes back, but to me it seems plausible that the rad and water pump may be the problem, as you indicated in your previous post.
I just went back and re-read your entire thread.
In the first post, what you described is classic air bubbles in the system.
The UG reads the same info as the temp sender, it just gives it actual numbers. When there are air bubbles in the system, the temp sender will get a pocket of steam, thus sending it up quickly. However, since the sender needs contact with the liquid, it suddenly drops again, then the coolant comes in contact and it tries to read correctly again.
After seeing your pics of coolant, oil, and radiator cap, your system looks clean and no obvious evidence of HG.
I think it is just a matter of getting the air bled out of the system. Like I said, it took mine 3 full cycles, driving 28 miles each day on the interstate to get it to finally stop having the coolant low. I have now driven for a couple months with NO change in the coolant level.
Find the steepest hill or driveway you can find, park it nose up, start it, and let it idle for about 20 minutes with the radiator cap OFF. This will allow the most of the bubble to circulate. The key is that it has to warm up enough that the thermostat opens and allows full coolant flow. Don't forget to open your heater valve (slide to HOT). Rev it up and hold it about 2500 RPM for a few minutes while doing this (you can do it from under the hood) to watch the coolant circulate from DS to PS. Afterwards, install the radiator cap, and take it for a drive on the interstate. This will get the RPM up and allow air to move across the radiator to keep temps down.
Do the same thing tomorrow until your coolant levels don't change.
The other thing to take a look at is your cooling fan. When cold, and the engine OFF, you should be able to spin it by hand. To "flick" it and make it spin, it should only spin at most another 1/4 turn before it stops. If it freewheels, you fan clutch is in need of attention / rebuild / replacement because it may indicate that the fan is not engaging and causing airflow across the radiator to cool the engine, thus, allowing the temps to climb. If this is the case, you should see good temps at highway speed (after you get the air out of the system).
After all this, I would switch away from what appears to be DexCool and switch to Toyota Red. Why? Because each type of coolant has energy transfer properties. This engine was designed for Toyota Red. It is more expensive than the green, but it was what came factory original.
The DexCool has known issues with cooling and it was designed by and for GM vehicles.
In the first post, what you described is classic air bubbles in the system.
The UG reads the same info as the temp sender, it just gives it actual numbers. When there are air bubbles in the system, the temp sender will get a pocket of steam, thus sending it up quickly. However, since the sender needs contact with the liquid, it suddenly drops again, then the coolant comes in contact and it tries to read correctly again.
After seeing your pics of coolant, oil, and radiator cap, your system looks clean and no obvious evidence of HG.
I think it is just a matter of getting the air bled out of the system. Like I said, it took mine 3 full cycles, driving 28 miles each day on the interstate to get it to finally stop having the coolant low. I have now driven for a couple months with NO change in the coolant level.
Find the steepest hill or driveway you can find, park it nose up, start it, and let it idle for about 20 minutes with the radiator cap OFF. This will allow the most of the bubble to circulate. The key is that it has to warm up enough that the thermostat opens and allows full coolant flow. Don't forget to open your heater valve (slide to HOT). Rev it up and hold it about 2500 RPM for a few minutes while doing this (you can do it from under the hood) to watch the coolant circulate from DS to PS. Afterwards, install the radiator cap, and take it for a drive on the interstate. This will get the RPM up and allow air to move across the radiator to keep temps down.
Do the same thing tomorrow until your coolant levels don't change.
The other thing to take a look at is your cooling fan. When cold, and the engine OFF, you should be able to spin it by hand. To "flick" it and make it spin, it should only spin at most another 1/4 turn before it stops. If it freewheels, you fan clutch is in need of attention / rebuild / replacement because it may indicate that the fan is not engaging and causing airflow across the radiator to cool the engine, thus, allowing the temps to climb. If this is the case, you should see good temps at highway speed (after you get the air out of the system).
After all this, I would switch away from what appears to be DexCool and switch to Toyota Red. Why? Because each type of coolant has energy transfer properties. This engine was designed for Toyota Red. It is more expensive than the green, but it was what came factory original.
The DexCool has known issues with cooling and it was designed by and for GM vehicles.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
You could also find a tall funnel that fits in the radiator opening and just fill in with distilled water. That would easily make it the highest point in the system. I tee-d into the heater control line and added a Parker Quick Release that I just connect in a short section of garden hose. I fill it with distilled and just lift it over my head. Takes care of the air bubble. My way is overkill, funnel will do you just fine.
- Thread starter
- #48
Would you have the system running while doing this?
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Of course. Keep doing it until the thermostat opens. Nothing bad is going to happen. Opening the cap AFTER its pressurized? Um, Good luck.
Be sure your heater control cable is on high heat.
- Thread starter
- #50
Thanks, I'll give it a shot.
While doing the above and you're not feeling any heat pumping with the heater on. Give it some revs to move air pockets. After the temp is pretty consistent thru the vents you can turn off the engine and let it cool a bit with the funnel in and filled with coolant. It will draw in some as it cools.
- Thread starter
- #52
Alright friends, we finally had a nice day here so I started the burping process. After i got the front end up on ramps I had to add slmost a full gallon of distilled water to get the radiator full. I then let it run for 30 minutes, periodically holding revs around 2500 for a minute or two at a time, every 10 minutes or so. It got up to 185F and stayed, which is very promising! The upper rad hose was hot and coolant was flowing!
After 30 mins the coolant level had dropped about 1/2 inch so I refilled and buttoned it up for the night. It is still up on the ramps and I will top off in the morning! Take it for a drive, and then repeat. I hope this solves the issue, and will post updates as they come!
I did notice that there is still only luke warm air coming from the front vents but very hot air from the rear. Potential clogged heater core?
After 30 mins the coolant level had dropped about 1/2 inch so I refilled and buttoned it up for the night. It is still up on the ramps and I will top off in the morning! Take it for a drive, and then repeat. I hope this solves the issue, and will post updates as they come!
I did notice that there is still only luke warm air coming from the front vents but very hot air from the rear. Potential clogged heater core?
Yeah sounds like a clogged heater core. If you go back a few months there was a rash of people reporting poor functioning heat. These things all seem to time about the same on these trucks, almost like clock work.
I would get a really good flush attempt on the heater core as replacing it looks to be a huge PITA!
I would get a really good flush attempt on the heater core as replacing it looks to be a huge PITA!
- Thread starter
- #54
Great news for Mountain Girl today. I added about 1/2 cup of distilled water and went for a drive; about 10 miles out on side roads and back on the highway. She ran nice and cool, topping out around 185-186 F. She is sitting on the ramps again tonight and I'll repeat tomorrow. Hopefully the burping has remidied the issue and if Blackstone comes back clear I'll do a coolant flush and fill and be good to roll. Thanks everyone for your input and guidance!
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
Joey, do you have a picture of where you tee-d in with the quick release? This sounds cool and completely overkill yet easy to do.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
Joey, do you have a picture of where you tee-d in with the quick release? This sounds cool and completely overkill yet easy to do.
ahahahahahahahaha, welll...
If you want to get into my whole way of thinking:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-coolant-routing-delving-into-stupidity.802799/
But this is what I ultimately did:
LS1FJ40
SILVER Star
ahahahahahahahaha, welll...
If you want to get into my whole way of thinking:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/new-coolant-routing-delving-into-stupidity.802799/
But this is what I ultimately did:
Shockingly, this makes sense. This makes perfect sense. I'm adding this to the list when I pull my motor this spring to replace all the seals... Thanks!
OffGridOverland
Overland Anywhere - Anytime
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This is about every 80 I found when searching. It came down to which one I liked the most and which price I could get it at. And I just told myself. 1st thing out is the headgasket. While I didn't plan on it being a week after I bought mine. It happened.
If you know going in. Its easier to do when it happens after you buy. I was surprised on the amount of lying the sellers were about. Mine I bought the owner finally fessed up to all the shadiness after I had i all apart and called him out on it. By then it was to late. But the short of it. He loosened up the spark plugs to drop the cylinder pressures to cover up a blown headgasket. I found this out finishing up a tune up. Firing it up with tight plugs. Bam.. #6 missfire and mixing of everything.
Local shops where around $1250 to $1650 to repair the HG.
I did the updated OEM headgasket, Main crank seal, timing chain and guides oil pump, intake and exhaust gaskets with ARP studs,
Next is the steering leak, brakes and suspension.
After all that is done the toys will be added.
BTW if under the cap shows that crap. And its got a new pcv valve on the cover. Its a HG.
- Thread starter
- #59
Alright, bad news. I just listened to a voicemail from Blackstone. They found, "A significant amount of coolant, fuel, and other insoluble material in the oil sample. They will be mailing the full report tomorrow. This means at least head gasket...
I will post the full report when I get it in hopes that someone can help me interpret it, and then I'll have to decide what to do with her. Thanks for staying tuned guys.
I will post the full report when I get it in hopes that someone can help me interpret it, and then I'll have to decide what to do with her. Thanks for staying tuned guys.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
I am so sorry for your loss.
