RuffStuff bracket assembly (1 Viewer)

[green40]

With the SOA kit the pumpkin side spring perch is 2 piece.
Any pics of assembly?
I assume that I need to tack the 2 pieces together, grind to
fit the axle, then weld them together.
Figure out where on the axle they go and weld them on?
Anything else I should think about?

 

[green40]

Nobody has used these?

 

[reddingcruiser]

You pretty much got it. Making sure you have the caster/pinion angle correct is the most important issue. High pinion angle can cause some engineering challenges, but easy to resolve. Check to see you don't create interference issues with the rear inside of the plate and removal of the third member. make sure you get the proper clearance to get the bolt/nut into position. The gusset plate typically does require some pruning to fit correctly. Get set-up, I've installed a bunch.

 

[Fast Eddy]

My opinion:

Finish the drivetrain. IMO it needs to be installed to finish up the axle. Also best to have the radiator, front clip, hood and bumper installed.
Cut the knuckle balls and temporarily install the knuckles and stering arms
At least tack the spring perches where you think they'll go and install the springs

This is where you will join the two parts of the perch, but I think you'll tack the flat piece to the housing first, then tack the angled piece 2nd, after clearancing each along with the housing. And tack the two pieces together. I'd plan to pull it all apart at least once so plan your tacks accordingly.

With the weight on the springs, you can make an educated guess about the pinion angle. Once you can guess, you can start working on the perches. Don't do more than tack them. This is where you would adjust the setup of the 2-part perch.

IMO, you want to take some material out from between the top of the perches and the radius as it is delivered. This is effectively lift, and you want your SOA as low as you can get it. I took out about 1/2" from the driver's side and worked the passenger side down to match. Now that it's all done, I wish I had taken out another 1/2", which would require cutting into the axle housing on both sides. As is, I cut into the passenger side, up against the pumpkin a little. We also cut the head off the bolt nearest the pumpkin in the front and tig welded it to the perch. We did this for clearance against the pumpkin.

Removing this material will improve your tie rod clearance as mentioned below.

Once you get it kind of close, put the weight on the axle and install the tie rod to check for tie-rod-to-leaf-spring clearance. Before you tack your C&T is the only time you have to adjust this. 1-1.5" is probably about right. Chicago is having to deal with this after the fact. I was lucky enough that mine seems ok, but I only realized how critical it is after the fact.

Once the weight is on it, you can measure how much the C&T and perches need to be adjusted. Blow it apart, adjust to your measurements, finish weld the C&T being careful to get the two sides to match. I'd want to finish weld the perches with the weight on the axle, but you may be comfortable doing it on the table. Mine got warped a little on one side so the spring isn't as flat as it could be.

I'm pretty sure I would have to remove the rear bolt against the pumpkin to remove the diff.

 

[hisandher77fj]

I want to use this kit so please post pics

 

[PAPAGOOSE]

Heres one pic

I'll see if I have any more. This is an FJ60 housing that's been widened on the short side to avoid going outboard springs.

 

[PAPAGOOSE]

Other side

You can see how close my drag link is to the springs here. No bueno

 

[reddingcruiser]

Here's a few.

 

[green40]

Lots of good info there guys, thanks.
I'm going to grind the perches down more to get them closer
to the axle. My spring pack has 8 leaves in it. (came off a 45lwb)
Going to pull 2 leaves out, shortest and one from the middle.
Anyone see anything wrong with that?