RTH: U Joints | drive shaft damage

[dranven]

I am changing the u joints on my front driveshaft. rear u joint is bad (one of the caps is cracked/missing part of it) and the front one seems ok, but I am replacing both.

I got the drive shaft out and began removing the rear u joint. I got one cap off, but in doing so, it pushed the spider (and the other cap) on the inside of the hole. So, for it to come out, it had to go back through the hole, which proved difficult. I could not get it centered apparently and while trying to get it back through the hole, it damaged the flange hole. There's a nice ridge you can see and feel with your finger.

I ended up backing it out and trying a few more times with no luck. Once I realized I was just doing further damage, I backed it out and cut the stupid thing off with a cutoff wheel.

So, my question is, will I be ok to sand/grind down the ridge and move forward, or does that damage mean I've ruined the drive shaft?

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

Photo? I just did this and had the same exact problems with the rear u joint and all. Though I didn't cut the cap off, I pressed it back through.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

I would say you're probably good as long as the hole isn't elongated. I have a feeling that mine may have been warped by heat because when I pressed the new caps in it still doesn't rotate as smoothly as I'd like it too. But really a photo of the ridge your speaking of would be helpful.

 

[AFinn]

no help here, but i too am fighting this fight. i had one rear joint obviously bad, so went to change it, and am now thinking i messed it up. i have put it all back together and drove it, but it has another vibration. i cant tell if the other joint is bad, or if i messed up the new one.

i am able to wait, and will probably take the whole shaft down to CBT or a driveshaft shop to have them replace and balance the whole assembly.

again, no help, but your not alone.....

 

[dranven]

Here are a couple of photos:

 

[86tuning]

Next time push on the side legs instead of pushing the cap through. This will reduce unnecessary movement of caps thru the yoke. This is simple to do on a hydraulic press, or you can do it with special pullers that will fit in your trail tool kit.

When we do them we push the caps out once, and push the new caps in once.

As for the ridge, I would dress the very top of it with a round file. Not very much though, you want a tight fit for the new cap. Then press the new parts in with a thin wipe of ATF as an assembly lube. If the new cap is tight in the bore you win. If it seems loose, consider taking it to a driveline shop for repairs.

 

[dranven]

Thanks guys.

I first tried a little sanding and then tried to put it back together. No go. I ended up using a rotary tool with a sanding stone, followed by some wetsanding. Install was a success. It's nice and tight, too.

I still need to do the front side, but I'm considering just putting it in and seeing how it is since the rear was clearly bad.

 

[mazder]

Damn dude you towing a mountain?

 

[dranven]

Damn dude you towing a mountain?