RTH: E-Brake Cable Replacement

[StaticTorque]

I am currently going to replace my e brake cable because it is stretched. I couldn’t find any threads about replacing it, and nothing in the FSM. Just how to adjust the Lever pull. How do I disconnect the cable from the lever in the cab? I am currently working on dropping the tank to be able to replace it. Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

[enox]

Dang I just saw the other day I think someone else replaced it without dropping the tank, they fished it through....somehow?

Also I haven't done it but I'd imagine the cable comes disconnected from under the boot at the back of the handbrake. Have to taken that apart yet?

 

[enox]

This might help

 

[DivByZero]

I did this for the RHD model, and it was a fairly easy process, but you don't have to drop the tank to do it on a RHD model. It was just a few simple bolts and brackets under the vehicle. For the lever, just remove the lever itself, and unthread the cable from the mechanism. I did that part last, once the cable was free below and I had slack to push the cable through a bit.

 

[StaticTorque]

Dang I just saw the other day I think someone else replaced it without dropping the tank, they fished it through....somehow?

Also I haven't done it but I'd imagine the cable comes disconnected from under the boot at the back of the handbrake. Have to taken that apart yet?

Well I haven’t dropped the tank yet. I’ve only disconnected things from under the back seats, put some straps across Incas something happened. If I can do this without dropping the tank that’s be AWESOME!

I did this for the RHD model, and it was a fairly easy process, but you don't have to drop the tank to do it on a RHD model. It was just a few simple bolts and brackets under the vehicle. For the lever, just remove the lever itself, and unthread the cable from the mechanism. I did that part last, once the cable was free below and I had slack to push the cable through a bit

I’m not familiar with that model. Does the cable run up above the fuel tank like the 1FZE models do?

 

[DivByZero]

This is the Right Hand Drive model I'm talking about, in Australia where we drive on the objectively correct side of the road . The cable is routed differently on the LHD models, and although I can't verify from experience, I've heard other people say you need to drop the fuel tank to replace the cable for LHD models. The cable is well clear of the fuel tank in RHD models, and runs under the vehicle unobstructed.

 

[cartercd]

You can take up slack in the cable by stacking washers on the lever end of the cable adjustment mechanism. Might be an easier option.

 

[StaticTorque]

Australia where we drive on the objectively correct side of the road

LMAO thats funny. I see, I think it can be done without dropping the tank. I’m going to give it a shot. Laid out the new cable and looked at it.

 

[StaticTorque]

You can take up slack in the cable by stacking washers on the lever end of the cable adjustment mechanism. Might be an easier option.

Up where is connects to the lever? If so, too late. I’m committed and already bought a new cable.

 

[StaticTorque]

Does anyone know how to disconnect the cable from the lever? I can’t seem to push the cable back through the lever.

 

[DivByZero]

You can take up slack in the cable by stacking washers on the lever end of the cable adjustment mechanism. Might be an easier option.

Only to a point. Mine had already had that done to the limit when I got it.

 

[DivByZero]

Does anyone know how to disconnect the cable from the lever? I can’t seem to push the cable back through the lever.

View attachment 2681279

Oh right, there's a metal tab in the middle of that curve isn't there? Bend it up, and pull the cable out. Bend it back when the new one is in. I'd forgotten about that.

 

[StaticTorque]

Oh right, there's a metal tab in the middle of that curve isn't there? Bend it up, and pull the cable out. Bend it back when the new one is in. I'd forgotten about that.

Thank you! I had seen it but I didn't think about bending it out of the way. Then I found a video of a 70-80 series brake lever upgrade kit, and he bent it out of the way. So I did it and it worked. I got stopped because a bolt broke on the axle for the e brake cable.

 

[StaticTorque]

It was that bolt that snapped. So I ended up getting stopped in my tracks. I will post a how to thread on changing the e brake because I couldn’t find ANYTHING on mud about it, and people say you need to drop the tank, which you REALLY don’t. That will be coming soon... Hopefully lol

 

[DivByZero]

Broken bolts suck. Hope you get it all sorted soon. It's really good to hear you don't have to drop the tank on LHD models either. I suspected there was a way to avoid that, but without access to a LHD version I couldn't check. Looking forward to seeing your write-up, I think it'll help a lot of people. I totally re-did the parking brake system on my RHD 80, and changing the cable was a key part of the process. It works great now. I've seen people mentioning here they could never get their brake to hold very well even after doing work on it, and I suspect that's because they didn't replace their stretched cable.

 

[StaticTorque]

I've seen people mentioning here they could never get their brake to hold very well even after doing work on it, and I suspect that's because they didn't replace their stretched cable.

This is exactly what happened to me. I had a brake caliper blow out on me and replaced both sides. While I was in there I also replaced the e brake shoes and springs. After that my e brake hasn’t held my LC. Did all the adjusting I could, so my last thing was the cable. I don’t think I’ll do a right up on adjusting the shoes and everything. I don’t completely understand that part yet.

 

[FlyinFaded]

Is that the only or most likely issue for parking brake? My rear disc brakes are adjusted just before they start rubbing constantly and my E-brake is s***. I was thinking the cable on the axle? But I honestly haven’t done any digging into this situation but it’s becoming more frustrating and I want to be able to use it

 

[DivByZero]

There's a whole bunch of things that can go wrong, it's a fiddly little system. If it hasn't seen any major attention though, it's most likely to be a combination of things rather than just one issue. The good news is, the parts are cheap, and still all available last I checked. At the bare minimum, I'd suggest anyone should replace the parking brake cable, the shoes, the rubber boots, and all the springs. In the process, fully disassemble everything, clean it all thoroughly, and put it back together with good quality lube. Since the parts were so cheap I just ended up ordering all new hardware for mine, so new bolts, cups, washers, etc. Basically everything from the lever down. If you're on a very restricted budget though, at a minimum I'd buy the cable and the shoes. Any original shoes have hardened and probably glazed, they need to be replaced if you want them to hold well. Any original cables will definitely be stretched, and once Toyota stops making them, you won't be able to find a replacement that isn't just as bad as your current one.

 

[DivByZero]

For the lube, I highly recommend this one:

Permatex

Proven and Reliable OEM Partner. As a leader in supplying automotive sealants, Permatex offers superior R&D, production, distribution capabilities and more.

www.permatex.com

It's what I went with when I did mine, and I spent quite a bit of time researching and thoroughly overthinking this.

 

[DivByZero]

Oh, and for anyone who's considering this, the video from @OTRAMM is required viewing:

Very thorough and will give you an idea what you're in for. You don't have to take the hubs off if you don't want to. I didn't on mine. I did replace the rotors and did a refresh of the disc brakes while I was in there though. If you've got an early model 80 series (before 93 I believe) there's a different setup with drum brakes in the rear. I'm only familiar with the disc brake arrangement.