ROTW: kevinmrowland

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After a bunch of head scratching I came up with this super low-tech new version.

Kevin,
In your "fold the seatback to make the front part of the sleeping platform" arrangement are those a second set of the top latches holding the top (rearward) end of the flopped seatback in place?

Are they in the way when using the rear seat in it's normal configuration?

How to you handle the lower seatback hinge? Is it quick to release? Is it secure enough when in "seat" mode?

Thanks,
mark
 
So you can just move the shackle hanger closer and that wouldn't screw anything else up? I don't quite understand all things suspension yet. Would you need to also do that to the front?

Basically, yup. You would need to make sure both sides are done the same and things stay square. If nothing else is changed this will lower the amount of lift the springs give. But you would not need to match the front unless you wanted to. Leaf spring suspensions are pretty forgiving.

boots4 said:
Thanks for sharing your wagongear site. You've got some amazing pics!!
Glad you like it! :cheers:
 
My rig is so "belly button". Kevin, great story, rig and enthusiasim!!
I really dig the 2 shop pics, one of you as proud as a peacock and then the shot of parts spread around the shop. Thanks for sharing!!!
 
Kevin,
In your "fold the seatback to make the front part of the sleeping platform" arrangement are those a second set of the top latches holding the top (rearward) end of the flopped seatback in place?

Are they in the way when using the rear seat in it's normal configuration?

How to you handle the lower seatback hinge? Is it quick to release? Is it secure enough when in "seat" mode?

Thanks,
mark

Yup, I bent L brackets and welded spare latches to them.
They have not seemed to be in the way of anything yet.
And I simply removed the tab retainers from the lower seat pins (I said this was low tech). When the seat is up it is effectively wedged into place as long as the top two latches are engaged. It is not super slick, but it seems to work great, it is surprisingly easy and smooth to flip the seat around and lock it in place.
 
I think I'd want to find a way to secure the rear setback more than that... but that should be fairly easy, even if it was just replacing the bolts that hold the hinge pin thing to the floor with thumb screws...
 
I think I'd want to find a way to secure the rear setback more than that... but that should be fairly easy, even if it was just replacing the bolts that hold the hinge pin thing to the floor with thumb screws...

You could use or fabricate loose pin hinges. A mainstay in theatrical scenery.
 
The simple geometry of the seat dictates that it can not move backward, and in the forward direction it is wedged in place by the seat base. Access to the pins is very limited, the seat base would have to be tipped forward to gain access, which defeats the whole purpose of the mod since anything in the foot well would have to move, not only that, but you would not be able to flip the seat down from only one side of the truck since you would have to walk around the vehicle to get to the other pin. The only easy access is actually through the fender well, spring pins could be put through and released by reaching in behind the tire, but once I determined that it was unnecessary, I didn't bother. :cheers:
 
Good idea... do you do scenery?

Yep. Used to work in theatre,(miss it too) but the income doesn't cover the needs of a family. Now in commercial work. TV, Print ads, Film if I get lucky.


kevinmrowland
The simple geometry of the seat dictates that it can not move backward, and in the forward direction it is wedged in place by the seat base. Access to the pins is very limited, the seat base would have to be tipped forward to gain access, which defeats the whole purpose of the mod since anything in the foot well would have to move, not only that, but you would not be able to flip the seat down from only one side of the truck since you would have to walk around the vehicle to get to the other pin. The only easy access is actually through the fender well, spring pins could be put through and released by reaching in behind the tire, but once I determined that it was unnecessary, I didn't bother. :cheers:

I figured you would have sussed it out, my suggestion is for anyone who wanted the extra "security" or challenge;p. As usual your mods are well thought out.
Your trips pics on your site are very cool, thanks for sharing.
 
I was curious if you had done any thing special in the way of audio?
I may have missed it, if so let me know.
Thanks
 
That is a thing of beauty. And best of all is it's function.

You have MAD skilz. Job well done.

:cheers:
 
great looking truck.

I just added the underseat storage to my list of "really gotta do this" on the 80....
we don't even use it as an expedition rig these days (living in costa rica is a daily expedition) but I'm a sucker for lockable storage!
 
flybynight said:
I was curious if you had done any thing special in the way of audio?
I may have missed it, if so let me know.
Thanks
Hell yeah! I've got a STOCK 1981, push button, AM/FM radio that gets "good reception in all countries"
SWEET sound! :D

I have an Ipod in the ashtray that feeds an fm broadcaster. I have some run of the mill speakers in the doors and that is it. I need to update the speakers a bit, but no plans other than that.
I just like to listen to the engine anyway.



great looking truck.

I just added the underseat storage to my list of "really gotta do this" on the 80....
we don't even use it as an expedition rig these days (living in costa rica is a daily expedition) but I'm a sucker for lockable storage!
I know what you mean, when I am using the rig as just a truck, it is SO nice to have it completely empty inside, no boxes, no tools, no rear seat even, and still have a full tool set and supplies locked under the seat.

Anybody busts in, all they see is an empty truck with a stock radio, no center console and a lock on the shifter. :flipoff2:


The best part is that the mod could be done pretty simply, I had to cut out a lot of the floor because of rust, but on a clean truck the fab work could be much more minimal.
 
The best part is that the mod could be done pretty simply, I had to cut out a lot of the floor because of rust, but on a clean truck the fab work could be much more minimal.

You had to go and say that didn't you... DAMN YOU KEVIN!

Now I have to go back and find the thread about that mod... unless you want to point me at it... I guess it's the seat mounting I'd be worried about - safety you know!

Mark
 
I've been planning to raise my front seat about an inch anyway (I'm short, no worries about headroom/kneeroom). Now it looks like I'll be including this storage idea.

The safety aspect doesn't worry me- defender 110 has a similar storage layout. The driver's side is actually where they located the battery, which seems absurd to me (hey! let's sit on a box full of acid that vents explosive gas!) but their mounting is far more flimsy than Kevin's, and you don't hear about D110 drivers flying through the windshield. A simple piano hinge along the back is darn strong.
 
The driver's side is actually where they located the battery, which seems absurd to me (hey! let's sit on a box full of acid that vents explosive gas!)

As opposed to "let's put that steel tank full of gasoline right here in the passenger compartment with us..."?

People get all bent when someone says they carry a jerry can of gas in the back of their truck but most 40 owners don't think twice about their fuel tank location...
 
good point, Mark... but you will notice that Toyota rethought that bad design and changed it- not only in the later-model 40s but in every subsequent vehicle.
 

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