Please excuse me, Not sure where to post this but hope someone can help me out. I just bought a "new" 86 HJ60 Land Cruiser. There is rust but I thought this would be a great project vehicle. The 2H engine runs, the transmission shifts well, all the electrical works; Its a nice start. The issue with mine (and after reading a ton on this awesome forum) and a lot of other Cruisers is rust. The frame looks OK, I will address that as well but my immediate need is a driver side floor pan. I have found the typical replacement fenders and quarters but nothing on 60 series floor pans and panels. I am located in Southeast PA, not too far from Philadelphia. If anyone has any idea where to locate a replacement panel I would really appreciate the help. Also, I am not a body guy but I have a welder and the means to complete this. I am excited to get started. I will upload photos of the areas of concern as soon as I can.
Rotten Floor Pans HJ60
- Thread starter Engaged Grind
- Start date
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LAMBCRUSHER
SILVER Star
repair panels are something seriously lacking in the fj60/62 support market. If you find someone who wants to tackle this, let them know there will likely be others interested...
I think that cut-out panels from a rolled truck are likely your source for floor pans. Or, fab your own.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks for the responses. I am quickly realizing that I may be fabricating and patching. I also contacted a few companies and they are saying the same things, nothing is available aftermarket. They will gladly take a look and give me a quote to do the repair though! If I think I am in over my head with the fabricating I may have to bow out and have a "pro" do the work. Any other 60 series Cruiser enthusiasts in the Philadelphia/West Chester PA area?
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
I have never seen a replacement floor panel and I dont think it is really difficult to weld as long as the seat brackets are replaced.
Maybe measure the location and hight of the the seat and start grinding.
Carpet comes over it, tar layer underneath so no need to do this nice.
I have done some welding on my 60 but the floorpan seems a "simple"
thing with good access from inside and outside (?)
Maybe measure the location and hight of the the seat and start grinding.
Carpet comes over it, tar layer underneath so no need to do this nice.
I have done some welding on my 60 but the floorpan seems a "simple"
thing with good access from inside and outside (?)- Thread starter
- #6
JT1W0HJ6000960839
Thanks for the reply. I think you are correct with the can of worms statement. The seat brackets are high enough that they were not affected. I don't have enough posts to put up pics yet (I think). It rained hard today so I tracked where the water was coming in. I noticed there was a panel replaced along the firewall (driver fender) and there was NO seam sealer used. The water came in along the fire wall and ran down along the kick panel, door, rocker panel seams. The rot holes are mainly right inside the door. Sorry for the long post.
Thanks for the reply. I think you are correct with the can of worms statement. The seat brackets are high enough that they were not affected. I don't have enough posts to put up pics yet (I think). It rained hard today so I tracked where the water was coming in. I noticed there was a panel replaced along the firewall (driver fender) and there was NO seam sealer used. The water came in along the fire wall and ran down along the kick panel, door, rocker panel seams. The rot holes are mainly right inside the door. Sorry for the long post.
Hi, There are plenty of 60s in the south being wrecked and parted out. Just need someone to cut one out for you. Pans from Texas will be almost perfect. Mike
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks for the reply Mike! Here in PA these vehicles seem rare. That might be a good lititle business on the side if you have the time, equipment and ability to locate some good donors. I am sure there are other owners who need some panels too. Let me know when you start!
or post in the Mud classifieds. that is what I did and got 2 solid floors. the person was willing to cut exactly what I wanted.
I used parts of the floor and rebuilt mine.
I used parts of the floor and rebuilt mine.
hj 60
JT1W0HJ6000960839
I had a leak from the rear wheel arch and that water got to the pedals so I removed the rubber caps in the floor so the water could leave and lifted the carpet a bit so it dried anyway.
A replacement floor would be best as it would need to be a bit bigger than the damage and just weld around.
But that would be a week of work if you do it yourself (nice to do with cheap gaswire welder)
So maybe drive it first, have some fun, then take it apart, I did not want my HJ to stand on blocks so did all the work in steps, sometimes got the kids from school with wet paint and I like all the frame off restoration but I want to drive.
A replacement floor would be best as it would need to be a bit bigger than the damage and just weld around.
But that would be a week of work if you do it yourself (nice to do with cheap gaswire welder)
So maybe drive it first, have some fun, then take it apart, I did not want my HJ to stand on blocks so did all the work in steps, sometimes got the kids from school with wet paint and I like all the frame off restoration but I want to drive.
- Thread starter
- #12
Thanks for the reply! I would like to drive it "as is" but there are holes in the floor. Once I get that patched I will "spot" work it till I am happy with it While I drive it around. My ultimate goal is to get it rust free but I am realistic and know that wont happen for a long time. I will do beauty work here and there then have it painted eventually. Since the interior will be pulled I am going to coat the interior with a liner (Herculiner, Rhino...) to preserve the interior metal. Then I will coat the bottom. In the meantime I will enjoy driving it once the holes are replaced by metal.
