Rotella oil users ?

[RABID1]

Amsoil

How about 15-40 Heavy Duty Marine and Diesel oil in the stock 80 LC. I use this oil in my Chevy Dura Max, and it would be great to only have one oil in my garage. For the summer only, in the winter I use 10-30w, --HI-JACK OVER---

 

[landtoy80]

How about 15-40 Heavy Duty Marine and Diesel oil in the stock 80 LC. I use this oil in my Chevy Dura Max, and it would be great to only have one oil in my garage. For the summer only, in the winter I use 10-30w, --HI-JACK OVER---

Why not use Rotella T syn 5w40 in the DuraMax and the 80 year round?

 

[Corbet]

Be more specific, what engine.

Off topic but how about a Subaru 2.5l turbo (2005 Outback XT). I'm running the Mobil 1 in my 80 but looking for a good / cheap oil for the wife's ride.

 

[GXO]

I use Rotella synthetic in the 80 because the people here that did the testing and took the time said it works best. Nuff said.

 

[landtoy80]

I tested several oil even Rotella dino oil and after several talks with Rotella about use in the 80 I made the switch.

What I found out several years ago was if you can use M1 without rapid consumption at high rpms, use it.
If not then go with RotellaT syn.

There is a cleanout period if you haven't ran syn of 1500 mi or so.

 

[Tuono]

I use Rotella in every vehicle i own including 3 motorcycles that turn very high rpm's and ive never had any problems well over 100,000 miles total now. So i added it to my new 80 today.

I was kinda surprised when i found out that thing takes 8 qts. I read the owners manual like 3 times just to make sure. even had my wife look at it to make sure i wasnt seeing things.

the only thing i worry about is using synthetic in a truck with so many miles. i used regular dino rotella.

 

[sseaman]

tuono, mine has 300k and im using the rotella syn, and havnt noticed any problems yet, (knock on wood)

 

[TiredIronGRB]

I use 7 qts of Rotella 40w and 1 qt of Lucas Oil Treatment in my 3FE (230K miles).

 

[Tuono]

tuono, mine has 300k and im using the rotella syn, and havnt noticed any problems yet, (knock on wood)

In my experiences (read: i have horrible luck) synthetic always seems to find leaks that were never there before and cause me all kinds of added problems. i want to run the synth, but i think im going to err on the side of caution.

On a side note, i was thinking of adding some SeaFoam to the oil. I always do that to any new bikes i buy and i usually have good results. anybody used it in their LC?

 

[landtoy80]

I had leaks and the big one was the front arch oil pan. After using RotellaT syn the leaks went away.
THere must be a swell sealer in that stuff or something.
From what I under stand, the syn oil cleans your motor. If you had buildup in the motor that was blocking your seals, the seals dry out.
The syn oil them cleans out the crud and leaks past the dry and maybe cracked seals.
If you get leaks with RotellaT syn, just give it a couple months to see if it swells the seals.

I use seafoam in the intake and gas. I have used it in the oil but not in the 80 if I remember right but I may have.
I might give it a try to see if it can clean out the rings and help my excess crank case pressure.

I was told that Seafoam is very good at cleaning and can be too good. It will eat at the bearings but can't confirm that.

 

[cary]

Off topic but how about a Subaru 2.5l turbo (2005 Outback XT). I'm running the Mobil 1 in my 80 but looking for a good / cheap oil for the wife's ride.

The Subaru engines tend to be pretty easy on oil, but the turbocharger makes me advise against mineral oil. Give the Rotella Synth a go. Otherwise any of major brand synth oils they sell at walmart in the 4 or 5 quart containers will work fine.

 

[ThePookieBear]

Hey, I was wondering what your opinions were on this. I noticed that my 3FE says to use API SG grade oil. Some of you are using Rotella T which is graded at API SL, SJ, SH. But, it didn't say anything about API SG. I don't know if those are compatible or not, but I love Rotella T, my dad runs it in all our diesels. Also, we use conventional Rotella, not sythetic. Are any of you running conventional, or do all of you run sythetic?

 

[Tuono]

Straight dino oil here. The thin synthetic stuff worries me with the old seals in my truck.

 

[cary]

Hey, I was wondering what your opinions were on this. I noticed that my 3FE says to use API SG grade oil. Some of you are using Rotella T which is graded at API SL, SJ, SH. But, it didn't say anything about API SG. I don't know if those are compatible or not, but I love Rotella T, my dad runs it in all our diesels. Also, we use conventional Rotella, not sythetic. Are any of you running conventional, or do all of you run sythetic?

SM is the latest API rating. Every rating, includes all the requirements of the oils that came before it. So you can use an SM rated oil in an engine designed for
SA, SB, SC, SD, SE, SF, SG, SH, SJ, SL, or SM (SI was skipped).

 

[cary]

Straight dino oil here. The thin synthetic stuff worries me with the old seals in my truck.

Little, problem there, your statement is completely incorrect.

 

[Tuono]

Little, problem there, your statement is completely incorrect.

why?

i already stated earlier in the thread that ive had a bad history with synthetics and leaks. i know synth is supposed to do this and that about helping seals but that just hasnt been my experiences.

 

[ThePookieBear]

Okay good. I will most likely switch to Rotella. I used to do a quart of Lucas Oil too. Any suggestions on that? Is that okay/helpful/harmful with Rotella? And what weight for summer? 15?

 

[Doc]

that just hasnt been my experiences.

Then, you've tried the Rotella syn- based on your EXPERIENCE?

I'm not trying to bust your balls here, just saying what others have said in this thread before me. Rotella is the anti-leak synthetic. In every cruiser I've had Rotella in (2, a 60 series and my 80) it has eliminated leaks, not started them.

 

[cary]

why?

i already stated earlier in the thread that ive had a bad history with synthetics and leaks. i know synth is supposed to do this and that about helping seals but that just hasnt been my experiences.

Where shall we start? When you say dino oil, what do you mean? Do you mean a Group I basestock oil? Group II? Group II+? Group III Hydrocracked? Group II/III Blends? Group III+ isowaxed? Group IV PAO? Group V?

Now that we have that little issue out of the way (because the words mineral and synthetic have little meaning) lets talk about how "thin" that synthetic oil is. Lets take 30 weight oils. A 30 weight oil is any oil that is between 9.3 and 12.5 cst @ 100c. It doesn't matter what basestock the oil is. If a 30 weight "synthetic" were thinner than a 30 weight "mineral" oil, then it wouldn't be called a 30 weight, it would be a 20 weight or 10 weight oil.

 

[along]

I don't know if its BS or not but from what I can get out of the various crap on the internet I run syn in the motors that were designed for it a reg oil in the conventional motors. My ninja ZX10R gets syn, the cruiser gets regular. I'm sure someone can make me look stupid but I perfer to use the less expensive conventional oil(I just put some rotella 15-40 in today) and do more frequent changes. The syn lasts way longer before it breaks down but it still fills with contaminates.