Roof rack build (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

my recomendation if you need a rack that will hold alot of weight is to do the cross bars out of 1X3 rectangular tube something pretty heavy duty. from there just weld up the thin tube basket so that it attached to the cross bars. the basket doesnt have to be heavy duty. All it has to do is anchore the goods up top. the real weight is in the cross bars. also i would recoment expanded metal for the floor, it will also help distribute the weight (makes a great sleeping platform too)

the strait pipe bent is awsome way to go however i didnt have a pipe bender and of course the angles pieces were much faster then bending pieces

I went with 1x1 crossmembers which are plenty strong, but the same idea. The strength is in the crossmembers, and the edge of the basket is more for looks.

I also skipped expanded metal and opted for 4x4 fence made of 1/4" rod, for a couple reasons:
1. Everybody uses expanded for everything. I wanted something a little diffferent.
2. The fence is super strong and lighter.
3. The fence allows usage of motorcycle-type tie downs much more easily than expended.:)

I should have more pics up soon, went wheelin' this evening with the rack (still not complete) mounted...:beer:
 
Here are a couple pics of the progress...
rack5.jpg

rack6.jpg

rack7.jpg
rack5.jpg
rack6.jpg
rack7.jpg
 
Here's a couple more from this afternoon/evening. Really not so much of the rack, but poser pics...
rack8.jpg

rack9.jpg

rack10.jpg
Tomorrow night I'm gonna add some 1/4" rod to the sides, and figure out if I'm gonna rattle can or if I can have it powder coated.:cheers:
rack8.jpg
rack9.jpg
rack10.jpg
 
Looking great :)


How's the windnoise at highway speeds?


I had to hack the front bar overlapping the windshield cause the noise was just horrible :doh:


It's silent now though :cool:

Thanks!;)

Wind noise doesn't appear to be an issue. I got it up to about 65 with no noise (sunroof open & closed). I think it's because mine is tied in to the rest of the rack in multiple place. Although the front portion is hanging over without support beyond the sunroof, it's still rigid and strong enough to stand on.:cool:
 
Does anyone know if the 4" quick n easy clamp will mate up easily to the Alum. Moose Rack conversion. Wild Oats used Bull dog clamps, are these the same design/ will they easily work?

Thanks
 
Does anyone know if the 4" quick n easy clamp will mate up easily to the Alum. Moose Rack conversion. Wild Oats used Bull dog clamps, are these the same design/ will they easily work?

Thanks

is the bottom of the rack flat? from the stuff ive seen i think these clamps would work excelent with the jmoose
IMGP1033.jpg
 
I believe they are. It sounds like the quick n easy bolts to flat stock? I guess I'll make it work one way or another.

Thanks again
 
New Pics!:D
The detail 1/4" rod that I added completes the welding portion of the project. The next pics will be painting & final install!:cool:
rack11.jpg

rack12.jpg

rack13.jpg

Happy 4th of July to all & GOD BLESS OUR MEN & WOMEN OVER SEAS!!!:beer:
rack11.jpg
rack12.jpg
rack13.jpg
 
wow! that looks great!! :cheers::beer:
 
Looking really good, I will be following your lead on this one soon. Nice work.

Matthew
 
quick question. why did you run the basket all the way to the front of the truck if your not going to have a floor over the sun roof for gear? why not stop the rack before the run roof (3/4) rack. While your in there welding my not weld some tabs in the floor all the way around where your sun roof hole is. then weld a small grate that would sit on the tabs. if you need the full rack set the grate in, if not just take it out.
 
Good question.

It's setup so that I can put long gear in there. For instance, the tent poles for my hunting tent are 6' long 3" wide. Also, I like the full length look, but obviously still wanted the access to the rack via the sunroof like 98 Snake Eater.:cool:

I thought about doing a drop in, but I can also use a couple tie-downs to make a floor.

I'll probably separately weld up a bar that can clamp in to limit gear from moving forward over the sunroof area, but anything that's up there will be strapped down anyways. I designed it so that I can attach tie-downs everywhere, they're my friends.:)

I guess I can always weld up a drop in floor in the future if I have a need for it, so good idea.:beer:
 
no one has asked for a quick materials list.

what kind of conduit (size?) ... electrical conduit is that strong? ...

what is your materials cost? ... time to build?

thanks
justincolorado
 
no one has asked for a quick materials list.

what kind of conduit (size?) ... electrical conduit is that strong? ...

what is your materials cost? ... time to build?

thanks
justincolorado

conduit- 1 1/8"- five 10' lengths (eight feet left over)
1"x1" square tube- two 9' lengths (4 1/2' left over)
1/4"x4"square fencing- 5'x7' (unusable scraps)
1/4" rod stock- used ~30'
quick-n-easy clamps (6)
3/8" panhead bolts, nuts, lock washers (6)

costs- $350 plus consumables (no paint yet maybe another $50?)

time- one week after work, quit before I piss off neighbors (other than one night, my bad:doh:) while trying to steadily stay hydrated.:beer: I had minor help on two nights (beer assistant).

Tools-
120v Hobart wirefed welder using gasless flux core
Mikita 4" angler grinder
Porter Cable 14" Dry Cutting non-abrasive chop saw
caveman tubing notcher I bought off ebay (~$100)
Porter Cable drill attached to notcher (no drill press, supercaveman)
clamps
St. Louis Cardinals player replica foam injected coozie:lol:
dozens of aluminum cans filled with cold, frothy, AB products:beer:




.....................................................................






Custom rack that might fool some people into thinking I have a clue what I'm doing...PRICELESS!:cool:
 
no one has asked for a quick materials list.

what kind of conduit (size?) ... electrical conduit is that strong? ...

what is your materials cost? ... time to build?

thanks
justincolorado

forgot about the conduit strength question...
the structural integrity really comes from the 1" box crossmembers (according to my caveman calculations, which I base entirely on nothing), and as I've mentioned. It's plenty strong for my 225 ass to dance on. Also with the large number of upright conduit tieing the top & bottom together adds plenty of strength. However, the whole rack is suprisingly light. I thought it would weigh a ton, but is probably under 60 lbs. I also stood on the portion overhanging the sunroof without any problems. Suprised myself on this project.;)
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom