Builds Ronny's Wits End Turbo lnstall (1 Viewer)

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I've been traveling for work the last two weeks so couldn't drive the truck.

This weekend I got home and had time to do some more shake down runs. I'm leaking oil from the AN fitting to the turbo on the oil return line. I took out the air intake and tightened the AN fitting down ~2 full revolutions. It's a hard fitting to reach, this time I used the right wrench for the job. Hopefully it stays put.
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Where did you get that wrench? Please send me a link. I had a small leak and I had to take off the turbo housing to reach it. I need a shorty wrench for my tool bag.
 
Nevermind. I zoomed in on your pic and saw ICT10 then went on Amzl. Where else can you find it. Im going to buy the full set. My other truck runs hydro and would be great to get real wrenches for AN

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Today I'm installing the turbo blanket - it looks really nice on the down pipe:
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and in the engine bay:
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Everything is looking good, except I can't get the transmission bell housing mounting point to line up any more. @NLXTACY is there a trick to get it to line up or should I cut the blanket to fit? The mounting band is rotated further towards the passenger tire than I had it set previously.

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Today I'm installing the turbo blanket - it looks really nice on the down pipe:
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and in the engine bay:
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Everything is looking good, except I can't get the transmission bell housing mounting point to line up any more. @NLXTACY is there a trick to get it to line up or should I cut the blanket to fit? The mounting band is rotated further towards the passenger tire than I had it set previously.

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fold over the little piece of the blanket and rotate the clamp to land on the bellhousing bracket. I had to do the same.
 
good info and pics. I've been too lazy and busy to do my blanket. I'm going to try and do mine with the DP still installed so I don't have to take off the Vband again. I finally got everything leak free and do not want to mess with a good thing. Going to suffer and push my way through and install it on the truck.
 
I hear you @spyduh - that was my original plan, but I decided to remove the down pipe after trying to fish the blanket around the down pipe while in the truck. There was just too much stuff in the way.

My favorite part of the turbo blanket installation was when I dropped a nut down my exhaust. I had to pull off the front catalytic converter to get it out :banana:

I had a buddy help me get the down pipe lined up again so the v-band clamps would engage correctly on the turbo, blow off valve and exhaust after the blanket was installed. That's a two man job. In the end, I decided to cut some 11 gauge metal I had and extend the bracket + washers to hold the down pipe to the transmission mount. I'll keep an eye on it and cut the blanket if I see an issue moving forward.
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I hear you @spyduh
My favorite part of the turbo blanket installation was when I dropped a nut down my exhaust. I had to pull off the front catalytic converter to get it out :banana:

That's a two man job. In the end, I decided to cut some 11 gauge metal I had and extend the bracket + washers to hold the down pipe to the transmission mount. I'll keep an eye on it and cut the blanket if I see an issue movin

Ugh that sounds terrible having to remove the cat to get out the nut.

Ive been doing the DP myself. I fight it every time when I reinstall it myself. I've taken it off 6 times already. Ive gotten faster and it takes me.about 30 mins now. I still don't want to take it off and risk a exhaust leak again.
 
I've been messing with the turbo more since I have the time.

I noticed my cruise control throttle cable had relaxed down onto the turbo blanket. Everything works fine, but I don't want the cable getting hotter than required. I zip tied it to the intake to hold it up & off the turbo.
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Another tidbit - the nut from the turbo to the up pipe that's closest to the engine under the intake side of the turbo was tricky to reach:
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I used a low profile swivel head socket like this to reach the nut:

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Cool.

I use needle nose pliers and roll up the tail on the worm screw pipe straps. Ill trim them down a bit, then roll them up, you can still loosen things off, but it leaves things cleaner and so you wont catch your skin on the edges.


That turbo piping blanket is impressive. I probably give NLXTACY a hard time once in a while about products, but that is a work of art. props.

I like the paint on the valve cover you did. My 6BT is dark colors and oily or dirty. Id rather go with lighter colors, white, grey or whatever as its easier to see things then black paint in small nooks and crannies. I think maybe the look of polished or clean aluminum with a black and white valve cover would look good.
 

hah. ya I think you get enough @ NLXTACY 's on here you'll be alright.

That air box piping routing could be cleaned up a bit. Probably have to mod the lid though, its short to the turbo, but it would be nice to take out a bunch of the piping, youd have better access to exhaust bolts etc.
 
hah. ya I think you get enough @ NLXTACY 's on here you'll be alright.

That air box piping routing could be cleaned up a bit. Probably have to mod the lid though, its short to the turbo, but it would be nice to take out a bunch of the piping, youd have better access to exhaust bolts etc.

Yeah been down that route over a year ago. The MAF is the problem. On top of that one of my requirements is EVERYTHING had to be reversable. Modifying the air canister hat was out of the question.
 
Yeah not going to happen with the OBD2 MAF. And no the lids are NLA

Ah, so your saying its impossible....




Ya, I did just stir the pot a little..
 
Ah, so your saying its impossible....




Ya, I did just stir the pot a little..

Yeah I have several of those. No go with the MAF
 
I've been messing with the turbo more since I have the time.

I noticed my cruise control throttle cable had relaxed down onto the turbo blanket. Everything works fine, but I don't want the cable getting hotter than required. I zip tied it to the intake to hold it up & off the turbo.
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Another tidbit - the nut from the turbo to the up pipe that's closest to the engine under the intake side of the turbo was tricky to reach:
View attachment 2262664


I used a low profile swivel head socket like this to reach the nut:

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I tried a wobble socket and its just too long to reach the back ones. What I found worked is using a standard short socket and a wobble 6-9" extension to reach the back bolts on the flange. Aint easy but it works.
 
hah. ya I think you get enough @ NLXTACY 's on here you'll be alright.

That air box piping routing could be cleaned up a bit. Probably have to mod the lid though, its short to the turbo, but it would be nice to take out a bunch of the piping, youd have better access to exhaust bolts etc.

When I did my homebrew setup I ran my head around every which way to keep the stock air box and yeah, the top and the MAF together is like a foot long from the center. Pretty sure Joey's method is the only way to do it without chopping up the airbox lid (or the same thing mirrored in a forward direction, which would interfere with york compressor). It's not the prettiest execution, but it's the only way to retain the stock airbox and MAF without cutting stuff up. I ended up using an acura airbox, but no way it would have worked with york OBA or dual batteries.
 
I've been messing with the turbo more since I have the time.

I noticed my cruise control throttle cable had relaxed down onto the turbo blanket. Everything works fine, but I don't want the cable getting hotter than required. I zip tied it to the intake to hold it up & off the turbo.
View attachment 2262662

Another tidbit - the nut from the turbo to the up pipe that's closest to the engine under the intake side of the turbo was tricky to reach:
View attachment 2262664


I used a low profile swivel head socket like this to reach the nut:

View attachment 2262650

I had the same problem with my cruise control cable touching the turbo so I fabbed up a little standoff out of some Al bar stock.

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