Ron Davis Radiator is now TRASH!

[subzali]

So after about 100,000 miles, the RDR that came in my white 80 is trash.

I first noticed a leak at the top weld seam near the battery box that was caused by the battery box rubbing on the seam and wearing through it. When I pulled it though I found a couple other leaks points down at the bottom corners.

Took it two radiator shops and got the following commentary:
Shop 1: these radiators use a cheap grade of aluminum that is hard to weld. Easy to burn through. Due to the way it failed it’s unrepairable and trash at this point. Also copper/brass is a better conductor of heat so would be a better choice esp for off-road use. Aluminum used by OEMs for cost/weight savings. For the price of the RDR this shop could build a nice custom copper/brass radiator for me.

Shop 2: failure in lower corners due to flexing of vehicle frame over time. Very hard/impossible to flow aluminum weld puddle to fix. Could be repaired if copper/aluminum. Hot rod guys like the aluminum radiators because they are shiny, but they are not as durable. Unfortunately this one is trash.

One other thing I will add is that I don’t think the RDR is the end all be all to solve cooling problems. For a while now I’ve been testing on hot summer days and while it cools ok at speed the temp will still creep up on sustained climbs and while idling with AC on. Have gotten >220F, not much different than my green 80 with OEM radiator.

I just put the used OEM radiator that was pulled at 140,000 miles from the white 80 back into the white 80 to keep me going for now. I broke open the fan clutch. It appears to have been indexed in the past to open around 90-95 degrees. But it only had 20 mL of fluid in it. I put 50 mL of 30k in it and we are testing it out to see how it works. So far I haven’t broken 90 deg C and it was 95 deg F outside yesterday. Previously it would ride at 90 deg C constantly and go up from there. Measured with a Greddy in the upper radiator hose.

YMMV, but just in case you were considering a RDR. I almost bought one for the green 80 but glad I didn’t. I can buy 2 OEMs for the price of 1 RDR and get much longer life and (I expect) sufficient cooling assuming a properly working fan clutch.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Also copper/brass is a better conductor of heat

Copper is better, brass is not.

Anyone who's brazed/soldered brass to copper will have seen you have to concentrate the heat from a torch almost entirely on the brass.

 

[77mustard40]

So after about 100,000 miles, the RDR that came in my white 80 is trash.

I first noticed a leak at the top weld seam near the battery box that was caused by the battery box rubbing on the seam and wearing through it. When I pulled it though I found a couple other leaks points down at the bottom corners.

Took it two radiator shops and got the following commentary:
Shop 1: these radiators use a cheap grade of aluminum that is hard to weld. Easy to burn through. Due to the way it failed it’s unrepairable and trash at this point. Also copper/brass is a better conductor of heat so would be a better choice esp for off-road use. Aluminum used by OEMs for cost/weight savings. For the price of the RDR this shop could build a nice custom copper/brass radiator for me.

Shop 2: failure in lower corners due to flexing of vehicle frame over time. Very hard/impossible to flow aluminum weld puddle to fix. Could be repaired if copper/aluminum. Hot rod guys like the aluminum radiators because they are shiny, but they are not as durable. Unfortunately this one is trash.

One other thing I will add is that I don’t think the RDR is the end all be all to solve cooling problems. For a while now I’ve been testing on hot summer days and while it cools ok at speed the temp will still creep up on sustained climbs and while idling with AC on. Have gotten >220F, not much different than my green 80 with OEM radiator.

I just put the used OEM radiator that was pulled at 140,000 miles from the white 80 back into the white 80 to keep me going for now. I broke open the fan clutch. It appears to have been indexed in the past to open around 90-95 degrees. But it only had 20 mL of fluid in it. I put 50 mL of 30k in it and we are testing it out to see how it works. So far I haven’t broken 90 deg C and it was 95 deg F outside yesterday. Previously it would ride at 90 deg C constantly and go up from there. Measured with a Greddy in the upper radiator hose.

YMMV, but just in case you were considering a RDR. I almost bought one for the green 80 but glad I didn’t. I can buy 2 OEMs for the price of 1 RDR and get much longer life and (I expect) sufficient cooling assuming a properly working fan clutch.

Sorry to hear that, rolling with my OEM rad and modified Blue Hub in the Texas heat without issue but I will keep an eye on the aluminum rad in the 40.

 

[BILT4ME]

So after about 100,000 miles, the RDR that came in my white 80 is trash.

I first noticed a leak at the top weld seam near the battery box that was caused by the battery box rubbing on the seam and wearing through it. When I pulled it though I found a couple other leaks points down at the bottom corners.

Took it two radiator shops and got the following commentary:
Shop 1: these radiators use a cheap grade of aluminum that is hard to weld. Easy to burn through. Due to the way it failed it’s unrepairable and trash at this point. Also copper/brass is a better conductor of heat so would be a better choice esp for off-road use. Aluminum used by OEMs for cost/weight savings. For the price of the RDR this shop could build a nice custom copper/brass radiator for me.

Shop 2: failure in lower corners due to flexing of vehicle frame over time. Very hard/impossible to flow aluminum weld puddle to fix. Could be repaired if copper/aluminum. Hot rod guys like the aluminum radiators because they are shiny, but they are not as durable. Unfortunately this one is trash.

One other thing I will add is that I don’t think the RDR is the end all be all to solve cooling problems. For a while now I’ve been testing on hot summer days and while it cools ok at speed the temp will still creep up on sustained climbs and while idling with AC on. Have gotten >220F, not much different than my green 80 with OEM radiator.

I just put the used OEM radiator that was pulled at 140,000 miles from the white 80 back into the white 80 to keep me going for now. I broke open the fan clutch. It appears to have been indexed in the past to open around 90-95 degrees. But it only had 20 mL of fluid in it. I put 50 mL of 30k in it and we are testing it out to see how it works. So far I haven’t broken 90 deg C and it was 95 deg F outside yesterday. Previously it would ride at 90 deg C constantly and go up from there. Measured with a Greddy in the upper radiator hose.

YMMV, but just in case you were considering a RDR. I almost bought one for the green 80 but glad I didn’t. I can buy 2 OEMs for the price of 1 RDR and get much longer life and (I expect) sufficient cooling assuming a properly working fan clutch.

But have you contacted RDR to see if they will repair or replace?

You're talking to shops that obviously want to sell you something so they will assume you're an idiot and don't know the different material properties between aluminums used in making radiators and whatever they are making is better, and this guy has money to spend because he already paid $700 for an RDR.

Do you know what's more conductive between aluminum, brass, and copper?
What came in your truck from the factory? The argument about weight doesn't fly with the LC.

Why did you go to RDR in the first place? Because all the cool kids on Mud do it?

These trucks operate in some of the most adverse conditions on the planet in STOCK form. I don't think the heat of CO is going to overwhelm it.

Properly set up the cooling system and run it.

If you have heavily modified it, then maybe what you have done is detrimental to the condition. Pay to play.

 

[1973Guppie]

Sounds like it is not a failure of the radiator but of the install. If it was rubbing in several places on the radiator that's a vehicle setup issue not an issue with the actual radiator. That being said I don't know why the RDR are so expensive. Many other choices out there including OEM.

 

[Kernal]

Photos showing how the radiator was installed along with the damage would answer some questions.

 

[subzali]

RDR does not repair radiators. I called them.

My only point was, not knowing how many others on this forum have 100,000 miles on their RDR, to share what my experience was and how long mine lasted. And for those who do have this radiator, take a particular look at where the battery box seals against the radiator and make sure it’s not rubbing. As far as the failure of the lower corners, not an install issue and not abuse. This truck is not a wheeler.

 

[jonheld]

I broke open the fan clutch. It appears to have been indexed in the past to open around 90-95 degrees. But it only had 20 mL of fluid in it. I put 50 mL of 30k in it and we are testing it out to see how it works

So you're complaining about the RD radiator cooling capacity when your fan clutch was improperly set up? Am I missing something here?

 

[Marco Lau]

lol...i have had 2 RDR, a bunch of other alum. brands, TYCs, CSF brass/copper and based on my experience, RDR cools the best and have had it for over 4 yrs with hard rock crawling application and it holds up exceptionally well and cools amazing. So what your telling me is faulse... and i have data to proof .

 

[Marvelicious]

Broke open the fan clutch. It appears to have been indexed in the past to open around 90-95 degrees. But it only had 20 mL of fluid in it. I put 50 mL of 30k in it and we are testing it out to see how it works. So far I haven’t broken 90 deg C and it was 95 deg F outside yesterday. Previously it would ride at 90 deg C constantly and go up from there. Measured with a Greddy in the upper radiator hose.

I can't really comment on the quality of the RD - I'm far too cheap to pay that for a radiator. My gut is to be a little suspicious of what the shops tell you, but also a little suspicious of your install, no offense intended.

Regardless, I'm not here to pile on, but I do have a comment on the fan clutch. In western Oregon, 50mL of 15k adjusted to 115°F was too aggressive. It barely freewheels at all and I literally lost 1mpg driving the fan unnecessarily at highway speeds and over-cooling down to 180°F (according to OBDII). Its all or nothing. I'm going to change it out for 10k oil as soon as I have some free time and try 105°F for the valve adjustment.

The point in how a fan clutch works is to have an engagement curve, and 15k was too flat. 30k sounds like serious overkill.

 

[Ragnaroek]

These trucks operate in some of the most adverse conditions on the planet in STOCK form.

Properly set up the cooling system and run it.

Thank you. People seem to forget about this all the time, and put big $$$ into a custom cooling system instead of repairing the factory one.

 

[Rifleman]

As far as the failure of the lower corners, not an install issue and not abuse. This truck is not a wheeler.

Just a question, when you installed your radiator did you check your trucks grounds ? This is a quote from Ron Davis web site "
quote"
As a manufacturer of best in class
aluminum radiators for over 30 years,
we can tell you with confidence that
only a very small percentage of
customized vehicles are grounded
properly. Poor grounding leads to all
kinds of difficult to troubleshoot
problems. Poor grounding can also
promote electrolysis, which can lead to
the failure of an aluminum radiator,
head gaskets, or intake gaskets
End quote"

As the statement above points out, poor grounding can lead to electrolysis, that can cause your radiator to be eaten over time like a sacrifical anode

 

[DIRTBIKEUSA]

100,000 miles on aftermarket rad? Not bad at all.

 

[subzali]

Here are some pics of the radiator

 

[subzali]

And this is the area that was rubbing on the battery box. This is the only place where it was rubbing, so agree here there was an install issue where the battery box should have been trimmed.

OEM rad installed back in, but you can see the rub marks on the battery box

 

[subzali]

So you're complaining about the RD radiator cooling capacity when your fan clutch was improperly set up? Am I missing something here?

I totally agree with you. As far as I knew it was a stock fan clutch. Now I know different and it explains a lot.

 

[subzali]

lol...i have had 2 RDR, a bunch of other alum. brands, TYCs, CSF brass/copper and based on my experience, RDR cools the best and have had it for over 4 yrs with hard rock crawling application and it holds up exceptionally well and cools amazing. So what your telling me is faulse... and i have data to proof .

What is false? That it failed after 100,000 miles or that I didn’t have the cooling performance I expected? It’s clear now that the cooling performance limitation was the fan clutch, not the radiator.

Curious if you have 100,000 miles on any one of your radiators. I would be interested to know what the expected longevity is of a Ron Davis.

 

[subzali]

I can't really comment on the quality of the RD - I'm far too cheap to pay that for a radiator. My gut is to be a little suspicious of what the shops tell you, but also a little suspicious of your install, no offense intended.

Regardless, I'm not here to pile on, but I do have a comment on the fan clutch. In western Oregon, 50mL of 15k adjusted to 115°F was too aggressive. It barely freewheels at all and I literally lost 1mpg driving the fan unnecessarily at highway speeds and over-cooling down to 180°F (according to OBDII). Its all or nothing. I'm going to change it out for 10k oil as soon as I have some free time and try 105°F for the valve adjustment.

The point in how a fan clutch works is to have an engagement curve, and 15k was too flat. 30k sounds like serious overkill.

You might be right, but this truck has a turbo with the front mount intercooler so I’m dumping additional heat into the system as well as adding more restriction that the fan has to work against to pull air through. I also know of some on this forum who are happily running 30,000 on hot climates, so I thought I would try it to establish an upper boundary for my use case and then I could work back down from there.

So far the OEM rad barely gets above 90 deg C and the air conditioning works noticeably better. And it was 100 deg F in Denver yesterday when I was out driving.

 

[subzali]

Just a question, when you installed your radiator did you check your trucks grounds ? This is a quote from Ron Davis web site "
quote"
As a manufacturer of best in class
aluminum radiators for over 30 years,
we can tell you with confidence that
only a very small percentage of
customized vehicles are grounded
properly. Poor grounding leads to all
kinds of difficult to troubleshoot
problems. Poor grounding can also
promote electrolysis, which can lead to
the failure of an aluminum radiator,
head gaskets, or intake gaskets
End quote"

As the statement above points out, poor grounding can lead to electrolysis, that can cause your radiator to be eaten over time like a sacrifical anode

Just to clarify, I did not purchase the radiator or install it.

The PO I bought the vehicle from did the install, and he was very particular about everything. And he did install grounding straps to the body on both sides of the radiator. That’s a very good point that I didn’t think of initially.

 

[subzali]

100,000 miles on aftermarket rad? Not bad at all.

Maybe. I’m curious what other people’s experiences are with this particular radiator. I think cooling capacity is pretty well established but I haven’t found too much info on expected longevity.