Ron Davis Rad. - transmission line woes

[superjuice]

While wrenching this winter I snapped the plastic nipple off the top of the OEM radiator and eventually decided to throw down for a Ron Davis radiator. The install went well minus a few parts I didn't plan on replacing (I wont put rusted parts back on my rig) but all in all no major problems. Haven't seen anything over 190deg. on my scan gauge even when sitting idle for 30min with the ac on (90 deg. Ambient)

The only issue I've had that hasn't been covered in some other post was the transmission line coming from (or to) the 90deg. elbow off of the radiator in the drivers side. This elbow can be rotated but I put it back on the way it was, pointing up towards the battery, leaving access to the radiator drain. The hose is very tight, stretched even, and sandwiched in between the power steering lines and the fan shroud.

Has anyone seen this problem? Perhaps it is no big deal but I know it's different/tighter than it was.

 

[scottryana]

Is it a Ron Davis or did I read somewhere else that you bought it from Man-A-Fre?

 

[superjuice]

I purchased it directly from Ron Davis 6 months ago. I called MAF as well but they had the same lead time.

I put on the foam.

 

[scottryana]

Yeah in your pic it doesn't look like the line is even over the barb and it is tight. I would say just replace that line with a longer piece of hose, to be on the safe side.

 

[superjuice]

Another question, the radiator had a tag on it stating that no brass fittings should be used. Well I had purchased new Toyota fittings and the collar is steel but I think the nipple is brass. I put some Teflon gel on the mating surfaces but I don't want any trouble down the road. I even went so far as grounding the radiator to the frame to reduce electrolysis per someone's thread here. So is the differences in metals here a problem?

 

[scottryana]

The problem when using aluminum and brass is galvanic corrosion, there is a .55v difference in their anodic index. The aluminum being more anodic will corrode and deposit itself on the brass. You can try to prevent it with teflon, thick grease on the threads, etc, but the best would be to just use aluminum fittings.

If the base is steel the anodic difference between low alloy steel and aluminum is only .15v so much less of an issue. .15v is considered acceptable. So put a magnet on the base of the fitting and see if it is steel.

 

[superjuice]

Understood, I'll look into it. The brass is flared as it is compression fitting so it is definitely in contact. If anyone knows the fitting type it would be much appreciated

 

[djsixbillion]

I purchased it directly from Ron Davis 6 months ago. I called MAF as well but they had the same lead time.

I put on the foam.

What type/size of foam stripping did you use? Thinking about going the Ron Davis route soon myself and trying to get all the details ironed out.

 

[djsixbillion]

Also, on the corrosion issue, it appears from your photos at least that the threaded portion of the nipple is aluminum. If that is the case, I wouldn't worry about it as there is no brass in direct contact with the radiator.

 

[superjuice]

What type/size of foam stripping did you use? Thinking about going the Ron Davis route soon myself and trying to get all the details ironed out.

I picked it up at lessadvanced auto, it was the biggest stuff that had. The bottom still has a good 1/2" gap, I'd go bigger there. I'll dig the bag out and snap a pic.

 

[Alleycats]

Maybe you already stated it, but where did you purchase those nipples for the trans. lines and what are the part #'s, I'm going to be replacing my rad. and I want to be prepared when I do. I can't seem to find a source for them.

Thankx

 

[superjuice]

Maybe you already stated it, but where did you purchase those nipples for the trans. lines and what are the part #'s, I'm going to be replacing my rad. and I want to be prepared when I do. I can't seem to find a source for them.

Thankx

Toyota p/n
16497-6604 6 bucks
16497-17030 12 bucks

But these are steel and brass, not ideal on an aluminum radiator.

 

[Alleycats]

Alright, thank you much, thats exactly what I needed. I'm installing a factory rad. so these will work perfectly.


Toyota p/n
16497-6604 6 bucks
16497-17030 12 bucks

 

[Funner]

That tranny cooler hose is about like mine was positioned when it ruptured or split. It was about 1-2 miles after it split that I noticed and pulled over. I lost 2/3 of my tranny fluid in about 2 minutes. Yours also looks original, so I would replace it with a slightly longer section and change the angle a little so it isn't hitting the other lines or bottom of the radiator.

 

[superjuice]

I agree the line should be lengthened but not sure there is another way to run it. Maybe behind the power steering lines, or through. Any suggestion as to the hose type/size I should use?

I really should have addressed this when the problem arose, now I have to take the battery out to get in there again and lose more tranny fluid

Edit: with some searching I found that the lines are 10mm I.d. and are moulded and dealer only parts. Some say 3/8 fits but difficult to get on. 7/16 may be better but hard to source. Also the lines are sleeved inside another larger line for abrasion resistance I guess.

Use OEM or use some ingenuity, which I'm fine with I suppose.

 

[neal0124]

How much do one of these radiators cost if you don't mind me asking? About the same as what man-a-fre is charging?

 

[superjuice]

Just over a grand delivered I'm not proud, I just love my cruiser. Kinda ticked that I ran into this problem.

 

[Funner]

I agree the line should be lengthened but not sure there is another way to run it. Maybe behind the power steering lines, or through. Any suggestion as to the hose type/size I should use?

I really should have addressed this when the problem arose, now I have to take the battery out to get in there again and lose more tranny fluid

Edit: with some searching I found that the lines are 10mm I.d. and are moulded and dealer only parts. Some say 3/8 fits but difficult to get on. 7/16 may be better but hard to source. Also the lines are sleeved inside another larger line for abrasion resistance I guess.

Use OEM or use some ingenuity, which I'm fine with I suppose.

3/8 (9.56mm) is what you will want, you will not get 7/16 (11.11mm) to seal around the fitting. 3/8 is snug but not that big of a deal. IIRC i removed the sleeve from the OEM hose and secured it to the bulk Napa tranny hose I used on mine. You could also by a larger ID hose 3/4"?? and use that as a shield secured with some zip ties. I would buy a few extra feet and replace the 4 sections that go into the cooler and the other that comes from the radiator PS bottom. Throw in a few extra feet for spares and store them in the rear compartment too.

Edit- unless you want to use OEM hoses, then buy those 5 sections and a couple feet of bulk 3/8 for spare.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Just over a grand delivered I'm not proud, I just love my cruiser. Kinda ticked that I ran into this problem.

Holly inflation! ~7%/year price increase.
Mine was the very first Ron Davis 80 radiator back in '03 at a cost $550 IIRC

Alm - '03 = .70/lb
Alm - today = .79/lb

 

[superjuice]

Picked up 5 feet of gates 3/8 and 3 feet of 3/4 radiator hose on my way home from work. Wasn't thinking about the two behind the grill but I should probably buy another 5 feet tomorrow to do those as well. About 4 bucks a foot for the gates transmission line at my local shop. Thanks for the info guys, much appreciated.

Phil, nice work getting Ron Davis to do this in the first place. While quite expensive, at least it's an option