- Thread starter
- #141
Cut off the front fenders but I wanted to keep the fender skirts because I have way to much crap attached
Builds rocks and rolls
- Thread starter mrqtipp
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
Needed to keep the fender skirt brace
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- Thread starter
- #143
Modified the fender skirt brace. Welded the brace and added a couple of bolts
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- Thread starter
- #144
more pics and front view
- Thread starter
- #145
started planning the front end. First remove the OEM shock towers. The rivots are such a pain!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #146
Going to attempt to move the axle up 7 or more inches. The shock towers I plan on using are way to close to the headlight buckets among other things
- Thread starter
- #147
Late model FJ40 headlight buckets are much smaller but I think I will keep the original headlight buckets and just cut most of the bell away and refab the spring for headlight adjustment
Mounted some cool 3/4 inch OD LED turn signals, they are extremely bright..
Thank god for napa cataloges
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Mounted some cool 3/4 inch OD LED turn signals, they are extremely bright..
Thank god for napa cataloges
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- Thread starter
- #148
The running lights are in the way as well ordered some flush mount LED lights.
Air quick disconnect in way as well
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Air quick disconnect in way as well
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- Thread starter
- #149
more scab plates. Shock tower will be partially mounted in that area
- Thread starter
- #150
Now I need help!! Going coilovers in the front with a 3 link and a panhard bar. All of the treads are killing me. I need advice from the link masters. I am sure the link masters are frustrated wth answering these questions over and over but please help.
I will have apx 63 inch WMS
1. How long should the lower links be?
2. Where should the lower link mounts be mounted on the frame?
Under the frame rail or on the side of the frame rail or does it matter.
3. What degree should the lower links be or should they be straight?
4. Where should the lower links be mounted on the axle?
Center line of axle or lower.
5. Where should the third link be mounted on the frame?
Inside and high.
6. Where should the third link be mounted on the axle relative to lower link?
7. What angle should the third link be?
8. What length should the third link be?
9. How long should the panhard bar be?
Longer or same length or slightly longer than drag link.
10. What degree should the shocks be at?
I will have apx 63 inch WMS
1. How long should the lower links be?
2. Where should the lower link mounts be mounted on the frame?
Under the frame rail or on the side of the frame rail or does it matter.
3. What degree should the lower links be or should they be straight?
4. Where should the lower links be mounted on the axle?
Center line of axle or lower.
5. Where should the third link be mounted on the frame?
Inside and high.
6. Where should the third link be mounted on the axle relative to lower link?
7. What angle should the third link be?
8. What length should the third link be?
9. How long should the panhard bar be?
Longer or same length or slightly longer than drag link.
10. What degree should the shocks be at?
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- Joined
- Apr 4, 2006
- Threads
- 162
- Messages
- 4,044
- Location
- Hillsboro, OR
- Website
- www.cascadecruisers.com
I want to stress that I'm no expert on any of the link stuff but I have been playing with this stuff a bit as I'm in the middle of 3-linking my rig.
1. As long as possible.... mine ended up at about about 38" but I some fudge factor built in as both ends are adjustable.
2. The usual spot is under the frame but on really narrow frames with wide axles alot of people outboard them a bit. One thing to remember is your turn radius and if your tire is going to rub on the lower link. I'm going through this right now.
3. If you mean how the links angle back to the frame from the axle then the width of your axle (and where you place the mounts on the axle) and your frame width will determine this. Running them straight (parallel) l back seems to made some binding issues for me...
4. Mine ended up almost at centerline. you can play with your numbers in the calculator to get different results though. I dont personally like the idea of mounting the lower on the axle because I think they'll become rock finders.
5/6. I found you have to consider alot of things when mounting your third link... Alot really depends on other factors like exhaust, drivelines, etc. I stared long and hard at mine before I found the best place for it. I think the popular choice is mount it on the pumpkin side. Mine ended up high and on the inside. Its nice if you can build a bit of ajustabilty into the mount so you can adjust your anti-squat if need be.
Probably should consider your panhard bar/mount when finding the location for the third link on the axle side. It gets pretty busy in there. In the pic below I tacked mine too far back but it gives you and idea. The panhard mount/bar will run in front of it.
7.Its best to try to keep the top link as flat as possible... says everything I've read. If you play with it in the calculator you'll see how dramatic even a inch or two will make.
8. The gods say 70% of you lowers... Real world fitting issues will fudge this number though.
9. As long as possible. If your running traditional type steering (tie rod, drag link, etc) then you really want the panhard to shadow it to minimize bump steer. Not an issue with fully hydro. Make sure to account for your bump and droop too.
10. Honestly however they fit best with the left over room.
I shot for about 100% anti-squat and I'm pretty damn close even on the real world side of the calculator. I should be able to get about 4-5 of bump too. I think the best thing your really can do is just to take some initial numbers and plug them into the calculator and then start playing with the calc to see if you can make improvements. Then see if you can make it happen in the real world. After that... break out the welder and start tacking stuff in place and start cycling the whole thing and see where your at.
Like I said... I'm not even close to an expert but just trying to share what I'm finding going through this process. I hope others will chime in here and share and correct my mistakes as well. Good Luck!
1. As long as possible.... mine ended up at about about 38" but I some fudge factor built in as both ends are adjustable.
2. The usual spot is under the frame but on really narrow frames with wide axles alot of people outboard them a bit. One thing to remember is your turn radius and if your tire is going to rub on the lower link. I'm going through this right now.
3. If you mean how the links angle back to the frame from the axle then the width of your axle (and where you place the mounts on the axle) and your frame width will determine this. Running them straight (parallel) l back seems to made some binding issues for me...
4. Mine ended up almost at centerline. you can play with your numbers in the calculator to get different results though. I dont personally like the idea of mounting the lower on the axle because I think they'll become rock finders.
5/6. I found you have to consider alot of things when mounting your third link... Alot really depends on other factors like exhaust, drivelines, etc. I stared long and hard at mine before I found the best place for it. I think the popular choice is mount it on the pumpkin side. Mine ended up high and on the inside. Its nice if you can build a bit of ajustabilty into the mount so you can adjust your anti-squat if need be.
Probably should consider your panhard bar/mount when finding the location for the third link on the axle side. It gets pretty busy in there. In the pic below I tacked mine too far back but it gives you and idea. The panhard mount/bar will run in front of it.
7.Its best to try to keep the top link as flat as possible... says everything I've read. If you play with it in the calculator you'll see how dramatic even a inch or two will make.
8. The gods say 70% of you lowers... Real world fitting issues will fudge this number though.
9. As long as possible. If your running traditional type steering (tie rod, drag link, etc) then you really want the panhard to shadow it to minimize bump steer. Not an issue with fully hydro. Make sure to account for your bump and droop too.
10. Honestly however they fit best with the left over room.
I shot for about 100% anti-squat and I'm pretty damn close even on the real world side of the calculator. I should be able to get about 4-5 of bump too. I think the best thing your really can do is just to take some initial numbers and plug them into the calculator and then start playing with the calc to see if you can make improvements. Then see if you can make it happen in the real world. After that... break out the welder and start tacking stuff in place and start cycling the whole thing and see where your at.
Like I said... I'm not even close to an expert but just trying to share what I'm finding going through this process. I hope others will chime in here and share and correct my mistakes as well. Good Luck!
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Thank you for all the details and images. Your build has been an inspiration to me. My 4 link project is still a year or so off, but I am watching and learning...
Did you decide not to go further forward with your axle? I was picturing it being just behind your radiator based on your location of the shock mounts. It looks to be further aft than I thought it would be...
With so many people 3 and 4 linking their 40's it's a wonder to me that there isn't enough info available to just copy and duplicate someone's proven design. I hate to have to reinvent the wheel myself.
Once you are finished and have all the bugs worked out how about posting some drawings of your mounts, axle placement, etc... They could be a real benefit to those following you.
Did you decide not to go further forward with your axle? I was picturing it being just behind your radiator based on your location of the shock mounts. It looks to be further aft than I thought it would be...
With so many people 3 and 4 linking their 40's it's a wonder to me that there isn't enough info available to just copy and duplicate someone's proven design. I hate to have to reinvent the wheel myself.
Once you are finished and have all the bugs worked out how about posting some drawings of your mounts, axle placement, etc... They could be a real benefit to those following you.
Oops!!! Sorry, that was BrokenParts's post... 
My bad! No WONDER it looks different....
My bad! No WONDER it looks different.... Thank you for all the details and images. Your build has been an inspiration to me. My 4 link project is still a year or so off, but I am watching and learning...
Did you decide not to go further forward with your axle? I was picturing it being just behind your radiator based on your location of the shock mounts. It looks to be further aft than I thought it would be...
With so many people 3 and 4 linking their 40's it's a wonder to me that there isn't enough info available to just copy and duplicate someone's proven design. I hate to have to reinvent the wheel myself.
Once you are finished and have all the bugs worked out how about posting some drawings of your mounts, axle placement, etc... They could be a real benefit to those following you.
- Thread starter
- #154
Thanks brokenparts I really appreciate the info!!!!!!!!
- Thread starter
- #155
In the front end is anti squat actually anti dive?
If so where should the numbers be??
If so where should the numbers be??
- Thread starter
- #156
havent got crap done latley but replaced the oem grill with some bling material. Radiator protection from small projectiles
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- Thread starter
- #157
Getting rid of the orion and I plan on either a dana 300 or some other tcase. Orion going up for sale
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- Thread starter
- #158
removing the tcase.
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- Thread starter
- #159
more pics. Taking the tcase out by yourself requires lots of straps
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- Thread starter
- #160
exteme bends orion sm420 adaptor plate (going up for sale) was a pain getting off. Earlier in the thread the same adaptor plate allen blts wouldnt budge even after applying some heat and I destroyed miss matched sm420.
A couple of the allen heads rounded off so I welded nuts on them and they came right off..
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A couple of the allen heads rounded off so I welded nuts on them and they came right off..
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