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[Taco2Cruiser]

Fixed a pesky air locker symptom (that’s fairly common). I made a separate thread for it.

Oil mist issues with ARB Air Lockers in a 200 series

This is more of a “learn with me” than me asking for help. As some of you, I like to real world test just about everything, so I’m going to change how I talk about stuff, and try it this way instead. Make it less about me or theory of products, and more about actual results. Air Lockers. I...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

BudBuilt has consumed my life this year, but it's good to get out and enjoy the Blue Ridge. Just thankful I'm able to...

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Hit 120,000 miles, so I replace the air/fuel, O2, MAF, and ECT sensors. I’ve found that while they might not throw codes, they are not nearly and accurate or as quick to respond when they are newer.

The plus is,you can totally get all the sensors out without taking the manifold out! Which makes this job considerably quicker to do.

 

[RET2]

Hit 120,000 miles, so I replace the air/fuel, O2, MAF, and ECT sensors. I’ve found that while they might not trough codes, they are not nearly and accurate and as quick to respond so when they and newer.

The plus is,you can totally get all the sensors out without taking the manifold out! Which makes this job considerably quicker to do.
View attachment 2176902

This thread is quickly becoming 200 series bible like

 

[stolikat]

Excellent build thread and you have to talk about your Kimberly Karavan now. Where did you snag that?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Excellent build thread and you have to talk about your Kimberly Karavan now. Where did you snag that?

An older gentleman in Atlanta bought it new and used it for two trips to Alaska, a trip to Colorado, and I believe one more. He said things were getting harder for him and wanted a sprinter instead.

It’s a pretty great trailer and it’s only negative is it’s not the most sealed unit like a bruder would be. I lived in it through a winter and it’s more than capable for that, but I wonder how it will handle sand storms. It also is not the best for a quick lunch while traveling in bad weather. I remember the Airstream trip I had (borrowed a friends) where it was raining, and we simply pulled over and jumped in the Airstream for lunch. That would be tough with the Karavan and a family as it’s only big enough for two when in travel mode. When it’s nice out, too easy. But the little guy is so small when traveling, and pops up to such a usable, and large size, that even today when I really contemplate buying a Bruder EXP-6,. The Karavan has a much better setup for inside living/cooking in my opinion, and it’s not much bigger than a patriot so it just follows along pretty well.

I’m just not a guy who can accept that I must come back to a trail head for a trailer or even supplies. But I also didn’t feel that spending a bunch of money for a tent on wheels was worth it. So the Karavan kinda fits the bill the best for where I’m at right now, and what I have planned for the next decade.

I’m hoping to setup a few more things at BudBuilt over the next year or so, then I want to start up some foreign travel.

To this day, I’ve never been out of the states for recreation, and that’s what I’m focusing on while I have the ability to enjoy it. There’s a lot good people out there, and I hope to meet them and hear their stories.

 

[stolikat]

An older gentleman in Atlanta bought it new and used it for two trips to Alaska, a trip to Colorado, and I believe one more. He said things were getting harder for him and wanted a sprinter instead.

It’s a pretty great trailer and it’s only negative is it’s not the most sealed unit like a bruder would be. I lived in it through a winter and it’s more than capable for that, but I wonder how it will handle sand storms. It also is not the best for a quick lunch while traveling in bad weather. I remember the Airstream trip I had (borrowed a friends) where it was raining, and we simply pulled over and jumped in the Airstream for lunch. That would be tough with the Karavan and a family as it’s only big enough for two when in travel mode. When it’s nice out, too easy. But the little guy is so small when traveling, and pops up to such a usable, and large size, that even today when I really contemplate buying a Bruder EXP-6,. The Karavan has a much better setup for inside living/cooking in my opinion, and it’s not much bigger than a patriot so it just follows along pretty well.

I’m just not a guy who can accept that I must come back to a trail head for a trailer or even supplies. But I also didn’t feel that spending a bunch of money for a tent on wheels was worth it. So the Karavan kinda fits the bill the best for where I’m at right now, and what I have planned for the next decade.

I’m hoping to setup a few more things at BudBuilt over the next year or so, then I want to start up some foreign travel.

To this day, I’ve never been out of the states for recreation, and that’s what I’m focusing on while I have the ability to enjoy it. There’s a lot good people out there, and I hope to meet them and hear their stories.

Interesting story and that is one unique camper you have there.

Have you heard of Zone RV out of Australia? Apparently they are supposedly going to start selling here in the US. They look like a pretty stout option especially the expedition models.

Home | Zone RV

Zone RV offers the ultimate luxury in off-road caravans that are both strong and lightweight. Our Australian-made caravans are optimized for safety and weight, incorporating technology from aeronautical and marine industries to ensure they can navigate even the toughest terrains. We manufacture...

www.zonerv.com.au

ZONE RV

At ZONE RV it is our experience and comprehensive knowledge that sets us apart. With 20 years experience in marine, transport, aircraft, caravan and civil co...

www.youtube.com

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Interesting story and that is one unique camper you have there.

Have you heard of Zone RV out of Australia? Apparently they are supposedly going to start selling here in the US. They look like a pretty stout option especially the expedition models.

Home | Zone RV

Zone RV offers the ultimate luxury in off-road caravans that are both strong and lightweight. Our Australian-made caravans are optimized for safety and weight, incorporating technology from aeronautical and marine industries to ensure they can navigate even the toughest terrains. We manufacture...

www.zonerv.com.au

ZONE RV

At ZONE RV it is our experience and comprehensive knowledge that sets us apart. With 20 years experience in marine, transport, aircraft, caravan and civil co...

www.youtube.com

I have not, but the more options the better!

I go into everything as a skeptic, so that’s why I like to get my hands on products, and really go through them.

Hopefully these are not like Black Series trailers. Man, those are some crappy built trailers.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

In case anyone was wondering. See that smooth hole by the wiring loom? That’s where you stick a block heater if you are feeling frisky.

Warning though. There is normally headers and a front prop shaft in the way, so it’s gonna suck.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Oooooooohhhhhhhhhh Rob is gettin’ frisky!!!!!

 

[timjax]

Oooooooohhhhhhhhhh Rob is gettin’ frisky!!!!!

View attachment 2441360

The headers too oh my...

If it's going to be what I think it is, I think everyone would love to hear as many sound clips as possible of whatever exhaust setup you're cooking up!

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

With the entire exhaust already out I decided to replace the starter. $100 for a newest OEM part number so why not. 28100-0S050

It is interesting at how much smaller the new starters are. The gears, main shaft, case, even the case screws are much smaller. Let’s hope it was to benefit something and not just to make a cheaper starter.
New on left, 2011 on right

Also, the little clip that retains the starter electrical plug broke. As they always do. It’s the same part number since the 80 series. 90980-11400. If you plan to swap your starter, just have one of the clips on hand, it’s only $6 and plastic doesn’t like the heat of sitting between the block and the header.

Just use a tiny flat head to release the wire from the plug. Side note, see the black positive cable clamp? To get that out of the way when removing the cable in the first place is by releasing those tiny tabs, then push the lid back 90°. Then there is already another tab that will hold the lid out of the way for you to unscrew the nut. It’s the little things Toyota... thank you.

And plug the new plug in. Easy

Along with a gratuitous picture of the flywheel.

 

[tacoduck]

subbed for awesomeness.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Couple things came together for this little project... I am building a high HP 200 for someone and knew that heat was going to be an issue. Plus, BudBuilt is creating a new product for the Tacoma and 4Runner world. So I had the opportunity to get a little bit of a reduced price on some stuff for myself because of volume at work heading to get some stuff done.

There is lots of talk about how to keep our 200s running long as possible. Well, rust, oil, and heat. There yeah go, help those items and your truck will last longer. For the heat part. I sent the exhaust off to Jet-Hot for coating. I put the headers and mid pipes in their 2500° and the muffler in their original finish which handles 1350° and holds heat in the best. I would of liked to done the whole exhaust in the 1350°, but the cats really push a bit past that temperate.

Since I had ton of data from when Bud tested heat under my 200 for the skid plates that are now super popular, I’ll be able to see if this even did anything for real. Jet hot says there is about a 55-65% reduction in direct heat on the outside of the pipe. The big take away from Bud’s testing is that you can’t beat thermal dynamics, heat rises, to radiant heat between factory, BB, and no skids at all was always so close it could not of be quantified. So... what if the heat never could be emitted in the first place, but go out the tail pipe. Well, not all of the heat, but more than half? Sounds good to me. @TeCKis300, you’re probable the one who will geek out with me the best on this one, so I wanted to give you heads up. TESTING TIME !!!

Here’s some marketing. I’ll see if it’s true or not, I have thermals too.

 

[TeCKis300]

Those parts look better than new and will probably last a lifetime. Good stuff!

Yeah, this is probably the best way to get effective long term thermal protection as it coats the inside (I believe?), protecting the exhaust substrate itself. I see many use heat wraps on street cars, and that's a sure fire way to accelerated wear and corrosion as it increases peak temps on the parts themselves, but also traps moisture against the surface on cool down.

Curious if you know whether the 5.7L headers are prone to exhaust leaks over time like the older Yota 4.7L was? This might also be a way to protect from that long term.

 

[encrypttie]

This week on As the Taco Turns...
More tan plastic turns black and beach driving makes people smile.

View attachment 1685587 View attachment 1685586 View attachment 1685584 View attachment 1685582

I am planning on painting the beige plastic parts black. I love how clean the parts you've painted have turned out. What paint did you use?

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I am planning on painting the beige plastic parts black. I love how clean the parts you've painted have turned out. What paint did you use?

I prefer SEM products when painting interior pieces.

Work between these products starting with:
SEM 38353, Plastic & Leather Prep (its a mild solvent to clean the piece, just wipe it off before it dries. Don’t let it dry)
SEM 39863, Plastic Adhesion Promoter (gives that super even look you see in the photos)
SEM 15243, Satin Black Color Coat

Remember, do 5 very light coats. You are not going for full coverage on each coat, but when all 5 combine, it will be even and complete coverage. So don’t worry if you have some tan peaking through after even the second coat. The key is to not apply much at once to eliminate running or uneven coverage.

 

[encrypttie]

I prefer SEM products when painting interior pieces.

Work between these products starting with:
SEM 38353, Plastic & Leather Prep (its a mild solvent to clean the piece, just wipe it off before it dries. Don’t let it dry)
SEM 39863, Plastic Adhesion Promoter (gives that super even look you see in the photos)
SEM 15243, Satin Black Color Coat

Remember, do 5 very light coats. You are not going for full coverage on each coat, but when all 5 combine, it will be even and complete coverage. So don’t worry if you have some tan peaking through after even the second coat. The key is to not apply much at once to eliminate running or uneven coverage.

Got it. Thanks for detailed explanation. It's interesting to see how you've already done everything I plan on doing... I'm gonna go with black/white interior. I want to paint everything black except for the beige parts of the door panel and the seats, which will be dyed/reupholstered with white leather.

After freshening up the interior I also plan on painting the car with Line-X Ultra.

 

[unclemat]

So I wanted to ask this for sometime, @Taco2Cruiser: you sold your truck! I saw it at LCDC this summer but you were nowhere to be found.

What are you up to now? You are also not with BB anymore...

 

[unclemat]

And did you ever get to test your coated exhaust pieces? Looks like part of the fuel boiling issue investigation.