hoser
SILVER Star
I think the 100 is now just old enough where folks don't mind major hacking away of the body panels. I've always disliked the idea of lifting the hundy 2", just to lose 2" of clearance at the rocker panels to sliders.
I'm sure there will be some debate on body supported sliders vs frame supported sliders. I don't know the answer but I do know there are plenty of Jeeps/LR's that run body supported sliders. I also know my current sliders are only supported by two outriggers to the relatively thin-walled frame... with U-bolts (small surface area).
The best compromise I can think of would be body mounted sliders and then one outrigger in the middle so the frame could torsionally flex as it normally does. That outrigger could have a two bolt disconnect so that it's not adding road noise during normal driving.
I don't have the welding skills to do this but maybe somebody out there does =)
Some examples....
Kevin Rowland:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rusty-wagon-rebuild.552977/page-4#post-7366526
Boston Manglers:
http://www.yankeetoys.org/mangler/sliders.htm
I'm sure there will be some debate on body supported sliders vs frame supported sliders. I don't know the answer but I do know there are plenty of Jeeps/LR's that run body supported sliders. I also know my current sliders are only supported by two outriggers to the relatively thin-walled frame... with U-bolts (small surface area).
The best compromise I can think of would be body mounted sliders and then one outrigger in the middle so the frame could torsionally flex as it normally does. That outrigger could have a two bolt disconnect so that it's not adding road noise during normal driving.
I don't have the welding skills to do this but maybe somebody out there does =)
Some examples....
Kevin Rowland:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/rusty-wagon-rebuild.552977/page-4#post-7366526


Boston Manglers:
http://www.yankeetoys.org/mangler/sliders.htm