RMP&O's 1984 FJ60, v8, lockers and more!

[SNLC]

One thing I will need from somebody in the know is what diameter the locating pins are on the bell housing, or the diameter of the pin bores in the transmission. That way I can assist in providing tolerances for proper fit.

*snip*

Thanks for that...it is good info. In all honesty though I hope I don't need it!!

Gear boxes are all back in. No warpage we could find on the mating surfaces, granted only used a straight edge. Every thing seems good to go. Drove the Cruiser around today for 50 miles or so, no leaks!! Got to say though, I really hate my clutch slave bracket. It sucks bad!! It makes the slave sit crooked and the rod is not straight, plus at max adjustment I still need more. Getting things done though so moving that up my list!

While we were doing the tranny we tossed in a new AAL to the rear and put in the new u-bolts. We were able to do this without removing the leaf pack from the truck! Today my 5150s showed up so tossed them in the rear. Really stoked on how it sits, rides and handles in the rear now.

Tomorow we start in on the C&T, front axle rebuild (knuckles, seals, bearing, ect) F350 shock towers and new front shocks. Also plan to do the high steer kit at the same time. Only waiting on the front axle kit and high steer from Marlin, really hoping they show up tomorrow.

Hoping to take a break from all this Cruiser work in the next few weekends and get out in the truck for some light off-roading and camping before summer is over!!

 

[SNLC]

C&T done!!

I am tired so won't be typing to much, will add details later....

Cut & turn is done! It was fun and interesting. We set castor at 4 degrees. We turned the pinion up a fair amount, at least 10 degrees over what it was. The Marlin stuff didn't show up so none of that went in. The Bilsteins are all in and we used the F350 towers hacked down. Sway bar is not back in since I need to extend the brackets on the front of the housing. Prop shaft lost some of the gap in it by pointing the pinion up but at full droop it would fall apart. So tomorrow it goes to Page Drivelines for a lengthen. I drove the Cruiser 100 miles home right after we finished up on the work and it rides super sweet! No more front bounce down the road, steering is tighter and more responsive, no clunks or odd noises, it tracks straight and true (had it up to 70mph) and rides super nice now. No Cruiser lean now at all.

Torched all of it off....

After the housing turn....

The Ruff Stuff perches, modified a lot!

The cut and turning it to 4 degrees castor which also turned out to be 11/32".

Another shot of the Ruff Stuff perches

The Bilstein on the RHS with a fair amount of flex on it....

LHS Bilstein with the modified Ford shock tower.

All back together...

Flexing the front up to check for any issues, there are none!

I will edit this later and add in more about the RuffStuff perches and how we worked everything out.

 

[SNLC]

More info!

So for anyone interested here is more info on what we did and why.....

I think I have been over some of this in previous posts but here is basically a sum it up and all that jazz now that the work is done. I don't think a C&T is very common in a SUA suspension yet I got to say it sure seems like the best way to solve a number of issues with 4" of lift and a shackle reversal. This may be very useful info for anyone wanting to do a C&T in a SUA application! Basically, we did the C&T because the front prop shaft angle was just to extreme. On top of that under full flex the shaft will seperate. Now an easy solution would be to simply have the shaft lengthened, I had to do that anyways in the end. Yet, that angle would still have been pretty extreme. I drive my trucks in 4wd on the snow in the winter, sometimes over 55mph. Also the dunes is fun once in awhile and speeds may be 45-50mph in 4wd in the sand. I didn't want any vibration problems at those speeds. On top of this we wanted to set the castor to get things dialed in well with the new suspension. I am not sure why MAF or 4+ seem to think their shackle reversal kit and a total of 4" of lift won't give you issues with the front prop shaft and or castor. For me using 2.5" OME springs and the SR kit it obviously created problems. A friend who has the same suspenion, 35's, ect doesn't have any front prop shaft issues. Thing is though he has a 4L60 behind his v8 and that moves his t-case back a lot. Once the t-case is moved back and his drive shaft lengthened the angle is not very extreme. In my application the tranny & t-case are in the stock location, ie front prop shaft is pretty short.

There is a number of different ways to do a C&T and really oly one big problem with doing it on any truck that has the pumpkin offset and pushed right up aginst the RHS leaf spring. The housing is obviously not round and so forth thus you create issues when you turn it for doing the perch. Mostly it is the u-bolts that will be a big problem, ie they won't clear the housing which is now much wider when turned. I have seen it done on Nissan Patrols where the housing is machined to make it work out right. I have also seen it done where a groove is drilled or ground or machined out of the side of the housing so you can get your u-bolt in there. I have even seen it done where a bolt is welded to the housing or some sort of deep nut is welded there so you can bolt the plate/leaf pack directly to the housing. I am sure it is the same on other trucks like a mini-truck or anything with an offset pumpkin meaning not just one way to do this. Although we could probably discuss it all day long as to what way works best. IMHO, each application is different and what may work best for me may not work best for you, ect ect ect.


After a tip from a Cruiser guy (here on Mud I think) and after my fab buddy looked at the Ruff Stuff C&T perch kit we decided that kit would work good for my truck and doing the C&T we needed to do. Once I got the C&T kit I was having a hard time wrapping my head around how it would work out for my application. When I bought the kit I talked to a guy at Ruff Stuff and he said it would work in my SUA application. On top of this it doesn't really say on the RS website that the kit is only for a SOA application. It didn't occure to me or my fab friend until we were well into the project that the Ruff Stuff kit is designed for a SOA application. Once we realized this (yeah kind of a duh!) it was obvious how this kit is supposed to work and how it was not going to work "as is" for a SUA application. We had originally planned on having the u-bolt switched around so one side of the perched was just like the rear axle, ie a round u-bolt around the axle tube. The other side of the perch we planned to use the large bolts in the RS kit. We played around with this for a good 3hrs or so trying to figure out how to make it work and also we were fighting the axle a lot as it kept moving around on us and we wasted a lot of time positioning it and then repositioning it. Then all of the sudden it dawned on me, why not just copy the other side which is stock yet make the whole perch wider to clear the housing!? That is exactly what we did. We used the LHS SOA top perch on the RHS as our bottom perch. We kept the RHS top perch as a top perch. It took us a couple of hours to scribe, grind, cut, scribe again and so forth the perches to get it set up just right. All in all we spent a full day doing the housing turn and getting the perches set up right. The LHS was super easy and took us maybe an hour total to hack off and gue back on. It obviously is the RHS with the housing that is a big problem. I had gotten some OME u-bolts for a HD leaf pack, these are grade 8 and the longest OME makes for the FJ60. It only made sense to use these and set it up just like stock only they would have to be spread out farther to clear the housing. Once we had the perch cut and grinded well to fit nicely aginst the housing we then took a bit of old grade 8 u-bolt and weled it to the top perch to build basically our horns for the square u-bolts. This worked out very well but did take a bunch of grindng to get it shaped just how I wanted. It was also all done with the diff still under the truck and with the perch welded to the housing. As a result it was much more difficult to grind, clean up and all that jazz then if the axle was out of the truck. Yet, it did save us having to move the axle around a bunch to check and recheck things. We also didn't have to bleed brakes or drain the diff of oil. While we did the work we obviously had the weight of the truck on the springs and axle. Yet, I was worried once we put the tires on and set it down that the truck might lean, ie my Cruiser lean would be back worse then ever or some other problem may show it's ugly head. I was mostly worried because the bottom perch is longer then the stock one by a fair amount, this could or maybe did flatten out the leaf spring a little. Once we had it back on the tires though it was all good and looking better then ever! One issue we had was that the bottom plate, the new one that came with the RS kit which is intened to be used on top of the spring in a SOA, was a bit narrower or shorter then our top perch we had built. This makes my u-bolts angle slightly inward from top to bottom. I would say it is about a 1/2" total narrower or 1/4" on each side. We couldn't make the top perch any narrower if we were going to clear the housing. Our only option was to use what we had or get a new plate made, on a weekend getting a new plate made was not an option. I decided if the bottom plate and the u-bolts being slightly angled from top to bottom proves to be a problem I will just get a new bottom plate made. The stock plate was a fair share to narrow to use. The next issue was we needed a place to mount the shock. Nothing comes in the RS kit to deal with this. We ended up just cutting the old shock pin out of the stock plate and weleding it to the RS plate. This worked well but we reversed the shock mount meaning we turned it 90 degrees from stock. It works fine but does expose the lower shock mount to more damage since it is horizontal the the axle not perpendicular like how it is stock. If I did this again I would get a new plate made that is slightly wider plus has provisions for the shock mount to be like it is stock. I don't plan to wheel my truck hard in paticular in the rocks so it may never be an issue the way we have it set up. The u-bolts and plate may also be fine for as long as I have this truck, ie 20+yrs! Only time and use will tell. After doing all this with the RS perches my fab friend still thinks it was easier then making our own perches. I suppose if you have the tools and shop to make your own perches it may be easier then modifying the RS ones. Thing is you will need a big press and other tools unless you just plan to weld it all up. I have to agree with my friend in that yes it was a pita but still not to bad to simply modify the RS perches to suit my application.

We talked a lot about castor. My buddy has done many C&Ts and worked on many mini-trucks but not very many Cruisers. We knew stock castor was 1 degree but from the get go we decided that was not what we were going with. With the 35's and lift we knew it would work better with some more castor in it. My buddy was thinking 6 degres but after a bunch of disscusion we decided 4 degres would maybe be best. So that is what we set it at and I got to say I am very pleased with how it turned out. Even with some worn steering links (tie rod/draglink) and a steering box that may need a rebuild it improved a ton by setting the castor to 4 degrees. All around the steering is tighter. It is much more responsive in corners and also much tighter when turning. Before it had lot's of slop and felt like the good ole boat floating on the road. I have no doubt that the Marlin high steer kit and new steering joints is going to make things even better! That goes in later this week....we did align the truck though and it tracks nicely with no odd looking wear spots showing on the tires, death wobbles and zero bump steer.

The last bit to mention is the shocks and the shock towers. First thing is that the Bilstein 5150s are a super tight fit on the stock bottom pin. I mean super tight! We had to grease the pin/bushing and beat it on with a rubber mallet. I had never heard or read about this issue when fitting Bilsteins so was kind of suprised how tight it was. It fits though and I do not think it binds, especially since we greased it! We decide it was best to set the shocks up so that at ride heigth the up and down travel was equal. The shocks come charged, obviously, but they also come set at almost exactly center on the travel, ie the strap holding them closed is holding them at almost exactly mid point in the stroke. So we cut the Ford shock towers in half removing a large section out of the center of the tower. We used the bottom section which has the angle to space the tower out away from the frame rail. We also obviously used the top section to convert to an eye set up. It worked out great and was fairly easy to do. We only tacked the tower onto the frame with a few one inch wleds to hold it in place. I will be swapping frames so I want to be able to easily cut off the tower and move it over to the new frame. Two main reasons why I went to an eye on my front shock tower, #1 is that I wanted more choices for shocks and now I can choose from many different brands. #2 is that I want to be able to swap front and rear shocks if I need to, ie carry one spare and if I have to I can use it in either the front or the rear.

As I mentioned I drove it home with no front sway bar in. The Cruiser has lot's more body roll then with the sway bar in. Of course it does flex better but I want the truck to handle well on the pavement so the sway bar is going back in. We will do a few small mods to it though to fit my new front suspension set up. I am also going to be adding an FJ62 sway bar to the rear. Speaking of the rear I may still need to go to a 6" shackle plate to get it to sit just how I want. Right now I have a 5 1/2" plate and it is just about level. Thing is I kind of want the truck to sit just a touch higher in the rear. Plus I do not want to sag once I toss 500+lbs of gear in the back. If I have to I will toss another AAL in the rear for load so it doesn't squat to much once weighted down. The very last thing I need to do is drop all my bumps to 3". I am already dropped in the front but not to 3", the rear has not been dropped yet. I want to stop rub right at the point things start to touch, after measureing a lot when flexing that turns out to be a 3" drop on the bumps. I am pertty sure in the rear I could get it to stop rubbing if I ran a narrower rim, thinking I have a 10" wide rim now. With an 8" wide rim I am sure it wouldn't rub in the rear since it only rubs sidewall to inner fender well. Thing is I do not want to spend money on new rims right now. A 3" bump drop is cheap and an easy solution since I do not need lot's of flex.

Keep in mind this is an overland truck. It will see most of it's use on pavement or dirt and gravel roads. Hardcore wheeling for this truck will only be some muddy rutted up roads in Latin America or things like this. It will never do any hard trails in Moab or run the Rubicon. As such I wanted it all set up with overland use in Latin America in mind. For my use I just do not need lot's of flex and all that jazz. Key for me is a good handeling truck that rides well on the road, can handle good loads and also do some moderate wheeling. If you are lifting or doing suspenion mods for offroading you are likely going to want to do somethings differnet. All in all I am super happy with the suspension now. It is a complete different truck from when I got it. On top of this it is almost exactly how I want it and working out just about perfect for what I am using the Cruiser for.

There ya go....my wall of text on all this suspension stuff for my truck. I hope someday, somewhere this will help somebody! As I use it more and do the last few little things I will report back and post up more pictures. If you want specific pictures of anything just ask and I will post them up!

 

[Heckraiser]

Cliff Notes?

 

[SNLC]

Oh and this is probably already known by most Cruiserheads but....

A mini-truck front axle seal is exactly the same as on the FJ60. No auto parts stores had the Cruiser axle seal in stock but they had plenty of mini-truck seals!

 

[SNLC]

A few pictures of the progress I made on the FJ62 weekend before last....

 

[SNLC]

In the middle of an outer axle rebuild. Also installing the Marlin high steer kit. Fabb'ed up new front bump drops, 3" total. Need to order more steel to do the rears. Also fabb'ed up a new clutch slave bracket as mine sucked badly. It flexed when clutch was depressed and didn't have enough throw in it to get the clutch adjusted right. Should be good to go now! Will post pics later when we finish up the work.

 

[SNLC]

Bump stops are built, painted and ready to install. New clutch slave bracket is all done too and ready to install.

I got one side done on the knuckle rebuild. I am slow because I am cleaning everything, priming it and then applying several coats of paint. I also cleaned all old grease off everything, including the CV. Then repacking it all with new grease. While reassembly I am thread locking everything and also torqueing to what I think stuff should be at with my torque wrench. I have no manual so going with what I know for most trucks in terms of torque specs. I busted one of the knuckle wiper retaining bolts. So I had to get that out, it was easy though as I could just tap it out with a screw driver, I got lucky! My pitman arm is siezed, nothing new there! I broke a nice puller on it last night. Looks like today I get to cut the old pitman arm off! Fun times!!

I have worked on Nissan Patrols a bunch and things are very similar from the Patrol to the Cruiser. Got to say though that the Patrol has a better set up on the knuckle seal/wiper and also on the knuckle cap bearings. On a Patrol it is easier to work on, install and it seals better. The Patrol only has one big beefy rubber seal on the axle ball to seal up the backof the knuckle. As I say it is beefy and sits all the way into a groove on the back of the knuckle, then there is just one plate to retain it, that plate is not a two piece design and also has more bolts that are closer together. One downside of the Patrol though is that the steering stops are built into the knuckle seal retaining plate, I have broekn those before! The Patrol design is serviceable with everything assembled since the seal and plate is split which makes replacing it very easy! The knuckle caps on the Patrol have an o-ring to seal them up. Both of these things help the Patrol to not have any issues with these parts of the knuckle assembly. From what I understand both can be a bit of a problem on Cruisers, leaking, hard to service as you have to tear it all down and so forth. No worries though as I think the Toyota design has worked all these years in many harsh climates/situations. But the felt sure isn't going to last long in mud, silt or sand! Any ways, it is interesting to me to work on both and see how one is better then the other and vise versa. Especially since the Patrol and the Cruiser have been main competitors for about 50yrs!!

 

[dbleon]

Very interesting... I don't think I've seen a CNT done on a SUA cruiser... makes a good bit of sense with the shackle reversal since your re-designing the suspension gaometry, the ~1* castor probably is not enough.

I can see this being a good idea for rigs thats routinely run in 4wd at higher speeds. Otherwise a castor shim seems like the simpler/easier/effective approach.

Great detail though!

 

[SNLC]

Well I spent the last 3 days working on the Cruiser. I got done today about 3pm....

I rebuilt the outer front axle, ie the knuckles. I tore everything down, wire brushed it all, primed and painted up all parts. I degreased everything in the knuckle and repacked with fresh grease. New knuckle bearings went in, new wheel bearings and new gaskets and seals.

I also installed a Marlin Crawler high steer kit. I broke a nice puller on the pitman arm so had to cut it off.

A new clutch slave bracket was fabbed as mine was not working well at all. Also we extended front bump stops to 3". My front prop shaft was extended this week so I also installed that.

Here are pictures!

Red primer is the new clutch slave old one on the right, the new one works great!

This is pretty nasty!

out with the old and in with the new!

one side done and test fitting the high steer kit.

the pitman arm cut off, much easier then I expected!

I barely nicked the steering box shaft.

new 3" bump drop and high steer kit on RHS

all back together, again!

flexing it up to test and check for any issues...

you can see the bump misses the perch!

Front prop shaft

plenty of flex in the front end for my needs

this is at max compression on the RHS

drag link touches frame rail at max compression

35" tire stuffed to the max on front RHS

Last picture....this is why I am doing a frame swap!

So, the bumps under flex will contact the axle but not on the perches. I am ok with that because I won't be flexing this truck up much and bumps for me are for when I go over a topes in Mexico to fast! Also I will not worry about the draglink for the same reason, will hardly ever be flexing this turck up as much as in these pictures. I have one hub that is being a bit sticky, so will give it some time and if it doesn't losen up I will pull it out and reassemble. It came apart on me when I was installing it and I am sure that is where the problem came from. The Cruiser flexes really well in the front, all things considered. The front prop shaft comes close to touching the oil pan under max flex but still has clearance. The truck drives great now, it is finally coming around after all this work.

I still need to fab up rear bump drops. I also need to get the front sway bar back in, obviously that will limit flex a lot. Besides the hub, I put one of the knuckle flange seal plates (the last one, ie outer) on backwards. So will likely pull that off, clean, paint and put back on. Going to give it some time but before winter I plan to check my wheel bearings again as well as check my knuckle bearings. Oh and I need to get it aligned or do it again myself with some help, didn't get it just right earlier today on my own. I installed the Marlin axle seal but used the Yukon wheel bearing seal, all new races went in with the new bearings. I set my knuckles at about 5lbs pulling force and my wheel bearings at about 18ftlbs.

My goal here was to stop rub which I have nearly got that done, I still rub a tiny bit in front at max compression if the tire is inline with the fender. I also wanted to limit up travel to stop my front diff from smashing my exhaust. I wanted to rebuild the steering joints and at the same time beef it up. I didn't compress the LHS in front today as I was running short on time. I need to do that though and see what the prop shaft does at droop on that side. I also want to mount my 16x8 rims with 35x12.5 Creepies to see if a narrower rim stops rub in the rear. I have not decided or played with putting the steering damper back in, will likley do that soon and decide if I am going to run one.

For my uses I think this set up is going to work well!

That is about it folks....suspension, DONE! Front end rebuild, DONE! Steering upgrade, DONE! C&T, DONE! Prop shafts rebuilt and extended, DONE! I have a few more things I want to do to the Cruiser ebfore winter such as; get in my Tauras fan set up, fix a dead high beam, fix no lights on my speedo and few other small odds and ends. Also as you can see in a few pics I have a smashed exhaust pipe, that will get replaced soon. I have been waiting on that until I had the front end all done and no more chances of smashing it up.

 

[SNLC]

Very interesting... I don't think I've seen a CNT done on a SUA cruiser... makes a good bit of sense with the shackle reversal since your re-designing the suspension gaometry, the ~1* castor probably is not enough.

I can see this being a good idea for rigs thats routinely run in 4wd at higher speeds. Otherwise a castor shim seems like the simpler/easier/effective approach.

Great detail though!

Thanks!

Honestly, from what I have seen on my truck, the front prop shaft ends up a bit of a mess when you install the MAF/4+ shackle reversal kit and also 2.5" springs for 4" of lift. Not only is the angle extreme even with the shims in there the shaft will seperate under full droop. While you can simply get the shaft extended you will still have a nasty pinion/prop shaft angle. I also have a cardin joint in my front shaft and still thought it was to much. I am very happy with it now although have not tested in 4wd at speeds.

 

[Kurtis]

That is about it folks....suspension, DONE! Front end rebuild, DONE! Steering upgrade, DONE! C&T, DONE! Prop shafts rebuilt and extended, DONE! I have a few more things I want to do to the Cruiser ebfore winter such as; get in my Tauras fan set up, fix a dead high beam, fix no lights on my speedo and few other small odds and ends. Also as you can see in a few pics I have a smashed exhaust pipe, that will get replaced soon. I have been waiting on that until I had the front end all done and no more chances of smashing it up.

Looks like its getting close to where you want it. Its nice having the extra body and frame, you can have some fun with it and not worry about dings, dents and scratches before you swap it over.

As far as the Taurus fans, I really wouldn't go with them if you plan to drive in weather over 90 or run your a/c, especially with a nice motor like a ramjet. They struggle big time with even a tbi motor.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/393325-my-pile.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/508432-62-5-7-runnihg-hot.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...-fans-wars-electric-vs-mechanical-both-5.html Page 4 on this one pretty much sums it up. This has the best, most unbiased, like for like tests of them all.
The engine bay temperatures are also a lot hotter with electric fans and with a a FI motor it is quite a bit harder on everything under the hood.

 

[lehiguy]

Be very carefull that your front shackles do not invert. Mine did when I used that kit.

 

[Tapage]

some serious flex buddy .. !

 

[SNLC]

some serious flex buddy .. !

I suppose! I am used to the Patrol though which has 3x or more this much flex! Sway bar going back in soon too so that will limit flex a lot. As mentioned I won't be wheeling this truck where I need it to flex like this, was just testing things to see if I had any issues.

I decided I want a steering stabilizer. Trying to decide between Icon, Fox or King for the stabilizer. I plan to mount it to the drag link with a tubing clamp, then weld some sort of shock mount to the tubing clamp. A call to Poly Performance tomorrow should get this all figured out. Also going to get a Longfield knuckle ball wiper and their inner hub gear. Should have did that before my outer front end rebuild! I think I am also going to tighten down my knuckle cap bearings a bit, to about 12ftlbs instead of the 5ishftlbs I am at now.

 

[SNLC]

Looks like its getting close to where you want it. Its nice having the extra body and frame, you can have some fun with it and not worry about dings, dents and scratches before you swap it over.

As far as the Taurus fans, I really wouldn't go with them if you plan to drive in weather over 90 or run your a/c, especially with a nice motor like a ramjet. They struggle big time with even a tbi motor.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/az-copper-state-cruisers/393325-my-pile.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/508432-62-5-7-runnihg-hot.html

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...-fans-wars-electric-vs-mechanical-both-5.html Page 4 on this one pretty much sums it up. This has the best, most unbiased, like for like tests of them all.
The engine bay temperatures are also a lot hotter with electric fans and with a a FI motor it is quite a bit harder on everything under the hood.

Thanks for the info and links! I did a bunch of reading last night here on Mud about cooling the v8s, in paticular the Ramjet. I am really leaning torwards simply a new fan, a fan clutch and a nice custom shroud or may try to adapt a shroud from say Summit. I do plan to run my a/c in temps over 100 so that is important and key for me in cooling plus keeping temps under control. It is really looking like a mechanical fan with the right shroud is the awnser to cooling this engine right, which means if I end up going this route the Tauras fan will not be used. This was my original plan but a local guy who had a Ramjet in his FJ60 said, toss in a Tauras fan and be done with it! Before he said that I kept going back to my v8 Chevy trucks, studying them, looking at them a lot and saying to myself, these never get hot no matter what I do to them, why not just replicate this fan set up in my Cruiser!?

As far as my body swap....the FJ62 has plenty of shopping mall rash on it. I do not plan to fix any of that or get the body all perfect and straight. I don't care about it being perfect, this is no show truck! I also know well it will get much more rash in the coming years. I do however want it rust free and to know that rust is not something I need to worry about for say 20yrs!

 

[SNLC]

I just purchased an Icon steering stabilizer along with an 1 1/4" tubing clamp and a bracket to mount on the clamp. Poly Performance is always a great healp when you have questions and this should work out nicely! The Icon is basically a Fox built by Icon, meaning Icon uses the Fox body and builds the rest themselves. It is also rebuildable. I ran Icons on the front of my Tacoma and was very happy with them. The King was just a bit overkill and also expensive. The Fox was a little long in throw for my needs. Here is what I bought....

Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY :: Steering :: Steering Stabilizer :: ICON Series VS 2.0 Steering Stabilizer Monotube Shock - 4X4 Off-Road Parts, JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CNC Brakes, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprise

Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY :: Synergy Suspension Outer Diameter (OD) Tube Clamp - 4X4 Off-Road Parts, JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CNC Brakes, Johnny Joints®, Currie Enterprises, Edelbrock, Pit Bull Tires, Ramsey Wi

Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY :: Brackets, Tabs, Trusses :: Shock Mounts :: Synergy Suspension Universal Shock Mount - Perpendicular Bolt - 4X4 Off-Road Parts, JK Synergy Suspension Systems, Fox Racing Shox, Beard, CNC Brakes, Johnny Joints®, C

Next call...GM Performance parts to see if I can get my hands on a service manual for my Ramjet.

 

[SNLC]

Ordered from Summit a few minutes ago....

Ramjet service manual (on back order unfortunately)

Ramjet diagnostic tool (also back ordered)

Accel fuel pressure gauge so I can check where I am at with fuel pressure.

 

[SNLC]

I did two things to the FJ60 today. I flexed it up (compressed) on the drivers side (LHS) to see if the prop shaft would have any issues. I only did it on the opposite side last weekend. I am all good, no problems with prop shaft! I also put on my Creepies in the rear to see if the rub would go away. My Creepies are actualy on a 7" wide rim, I had thought it was 8". The rims also have way less backspacing then the rims on the Cruiser now. Any ways, no rub in the rear. So in the future all I really need to do is get the right rims and any rear rub will be gone. I figure that was the case but good to know for sure!

suff in rear, 7" rim, no rub!

rear under some flex, no much there with the HD leaves but I am happy with it for my uses.

front with tire stuffed on LHS

you can see prop shaft is all good

poser flex shots!

I am going to get out in the Cruiser this weekend for at least a day. Looking forward to it!

 

[klinetime574]

I really like the front suspension work you did. Your Cruiser is badass!