- Thread starter
- #61
A variety of pinch welds ordered. Will try another fitment in a couple weeks.
Rival4x4 TLC Aluminum Front Bumper - on a Gen 1 LX (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter grinchy
- Start date
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bwell
SILVER Star
I think it looks great so far. I would take a heat gun and the remains of the front bumper cover cut a dedicated sample similar to what you are actually using on the vehicle and see if I couldn't get it to bend down the way you would want. Could make a jig out of some wood scraps with a wide bite. Should be able to get kind of the look I would think you'd want. Then you could use the bulb trim to fill your gap. 
- Thread starter
- #63
That’s a good idea. I was also wondering if a bit of hot air could address it.I think it looks great so far. I would take a heat gun and the remains of the front bumper cover cut a dedicated sample similar to what you are actually using on the vehicle and see if I couldn't get it to bend down the way you would want. Could make a jig out of some wood scraps with a wide bite. Should be able to get kind of the look I would think you'd want. Then you could use the bulb trim to fill your gap.
After seeing it again this morning in the sun, the bumper cover under the lights is both thin and pretty far away from the skin. I think just an appropriate size pinch weld + bulb will address perfectly (put the gripper in 1/4” aluminum bumper).
Side fender I put a part of the clip underneath so it is sturdy, and can use bulb trim on the bumper cover.
Front under grill bumper cover either plain pinch with a gap or with a bulb would work.
The interesting part will be merging the trim from the lights into the grill area.
- Thread starter
- #64
It has about 1” exposed in the center, and 2” at the end. You could of course put a mount bolt behind the bumper cover.
I’d like to put some lights on eventually and think it won’t be too much of a problem. LED are pretty flat. A bracket the slotted under and hooked on the bumper edge would work pretty good.
A tlc would have another inch exposed.
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- Thread starter
- #66
Bumper cover thickness front of car - 4mm+, even 4.5mm
Bumper cover thickness side wings - 3mm
Bumper cover thickness side wings - 3mm
Looks great bro. Do the stock skid plates work with the bumper? Or did you need replacements?
- Thread starter
- #68
I have a budbuilt front skid. It’s completely compatible. There is a small gap.
Would be similar for oem ‘skids’.
Rival sells a front skid that I imagine matches up 100%.
Would be similar for oem ‘skids’.
Rival sells a front skid that I imagine matches up 100%.
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- Thread starter
- #69
Here are the cut offs I made from the bumper body. A couple finger size, a couple pinky size.
- Thread starter
- #70
Comments on the installation- manual steps.
For steps 1 thru 4 the LX differs slightly, see fsm steps earlier in thread.
Step 5 - I chose to take off the grill and bumper cover together. The grill clips require squeezing the whole plastic tab flat while pushing out, and there are five or so each side, and more below on the horizontal. It’s only a couple minutes work once the cover is out.
Step 6 lx slight differs see fsm
Step 7- the light washer will drain liquid fast, and it is tricky to get it higher than the reservoir. Pinch the line first. Or have a 10mm plug ready.
Step 8 -12 no notes
Step 13 - the two clips with screws come out with a little prying. I tried many things but never figured out how to release the center clip. I ended up breaking tabs. You will want this part as functional as possible, you reuse some of it post mounting to hold the little triangle of bumper cover.
Step 14. I just cut the deflector below the crossbar. The install barely gets close to it, I suggest leaving until test fit and cutting as little as possible. When doing the crossmember.
Step 15- I took off the deflector as indicated, and the new crossbar would truncate the lower 1/3. The top 1/2 would be safe to keep, and I’m considering putting as much as I can back in. This is also prime place to put a winch controller.
Steps 16 - 18 no notes
Ready to get the new bumper on!
For steps 1 thru 4 the LX differs slightly, see fsm steps earlier in thread.
Step 5 - I chose to take off the grill and bumper cover together. The grill clips require squeezing the whole plastic tab flat while pushing out, and there are five or so each side, and more below on the horizontal. It’s only a couple minutes work once the cover is out.
Step 6 lx slight differs see fsm
Step 7- the light washer will drain liquid fast, and it is tricky to get it higher than the reservoir. Pinch the line first. Or have a 10mm plug ready.
Step 8 -12 no notes
Step 13 - the two clips with screws come out with a little prying. I tried many things but never figured out how to release the center clip. I ended up breaking tabs. You will want this part as functional as possible, you reuse some of it post mounting to hold the little triangle of bumper cover.
Step 14. I just cut the deflector below the crossbar. The install barely gets close to it, I suggest leaving until test fit and cutting as little as possible. When doing the crossmember.
Step 15- I took off the deflector as indicated, and the new crossbar would truncate the lower 1/3. The top 1/2 would be safe to keep, and I’m considering putting as much as I can back in. This is also prime place to put a winch controller.
Steps 16 - 18 no notes
Ready to get the new bumper on!
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- Thread starter
- #71
LX Specific prep.
There are two changes to the LX to make.
1) you need to reduce the fender width on the side Of the headlight. The very end of the fender, past the headlight mounts. The fender has a slight accordion shape.
Cut/bend inward the sheet metal . It’s a piece about 1.5” wide and 3” tall, but vaguely triangular. I cut one side, bent the other. Remove as much as you safely can and still provide support to the tabs.
2) you need to redo the bumper crossmember to support the grill. The last 10” or so on each side need to be cut off, and then the middle section supported in its current position. There are three holes in the crossmember, be sure to preserve these for later use, that tells you how long it needs to be.
This is the main customization.
It would be simplest to build the supports BEFORE you cut the existing supports off.
Recommended work flow.
Get you new support. 5 ft of 1” 1/8” aluminum square tube would be perfect. I used angle, but tube would be better.
Put the tube on the existing bumper supports that come off the radiator. Mine is about 1” behind the existing hole for the oem crossmember. I made the new hole just before where the crossmember brackets narrow. Mark the locations on thr bracket and tube.
Cut the tube to length. Put it in place on the brackets.
Take the cutoff and cut into two pieces. mark two supports from your new crossmember to the oem bumper crossbar. Mark for drilling and correct length.
Note clearance will be tight below the crossbar, you’ll need to remove three side of the tube to turn it into a bar. Or you could use bar.
Consider getting countersink or flat hardware for the oem crossbar to support junction.
Once all marked (and preferably assembled), you can remove the brackets, crossbar etc and chop the brackets right after the existing hole, and the crossbar after the ‘drop’ but before the holes, on each end.
Remount the new crossbar.
As an added bonus, you can run supports over to the tabs at the end of each headlight.
Back to the Rival manual steps
There are two changes to the LX to make.
1) you need to reduce the fender width on the side Of the headlight. The very end of the fender, past the headlight mounts. The fender has a slight accordion shape.
Cut/bend inward the sheet metal . It’s a piece about 1.5” wide and 3” tall, but vaguely triangular. I cut one side, bent the other. Remove as much as you safely can and still provide support to the tabs.
2) you need to redo the bumper crossmember to support the grill. The last 10” or so on each side need to be cut off, and then the middle section supported in its current position. There are three holes in the crossmember, be sure to preserve these for later use, that tells you how long it needs to be.
This is the main customization.
It would be simplest to build the supports BEFORE you cut the existing supports off.
Recommended work flow.
Get you new support. 5 ft of 1” 1/8” aluminum square tube would be perfect. I used angle, but tube would be better.
Put the tube on the existing bumper supports that come off the radiator. Mine is about 1” behind the existing hole for the oem crossmember. I made the new hole just before where the crossmember brackets narrow. Mark the locations on thr bracket and tube.
Cut the tube to length. Put it in place on the brackets.
Take the cutoff and cut into two pieces. mark two supports from your new crossmember to the oem bumper crossbar. Mark for drilling and correct length.
Note clearance will be tight below the crossbar, you’ll need to remove three side of the tube to turn it into a bar. Or you could use bar.
Consider getting countersink or flat hardware for the oem crossbar to support junction.
Once all marked (and preferably assembled), you can remove the brackets, crossbar etc and chop the brackets right after the existing hole, and the crossbar after the ‘drop’ but before the holes, on each end.
Remount the new crossbar.
As an added bonus, you can run supports over to the tabs at the end of each headlight.
Back to the Rival manual steps
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- Thread starter
- #72
Winch base
Step 19-20 no notes
Step 21 note orientation, it’ll only go one way though.
Step 22,23 no notes
Obviously the winch has to go on before the bumper. It’s a standard drilling and easy to do.
I didn’t find an issue with height. The manual says 185mm but I think most any winch will fit, and all models with a relocation of the control box should fit. YMMV
Step 19-20 no notes
Step 21 note orientation, it’ll only go one way though.
Step 22,23 no notes
Obviously the winch has to go on before the bumper. It’s a standard drilling and easy to do.
I didn’t find an issue with height. The manual says 185mm but I think most any winch will fit, and all models with a relocation of the control box should fit. YMMV
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- Thread starter
- #73
Moving stuff over
Parking sensors
Step 25 - two tabs on sides. Release one side and rotate
Step 26 - ignore the metal tabs, there are two small plastic tabs at the bumper cover, get those thru, then pinch the metal and rotate thru the clips.
Step 27 - locate the cutout supports. Draw a line between them. Hit the cutout from the backside of bumper alternate sides of the line. It’ll rotate out easily
Step 28 no notes
Light washers
I cut mine out. You need. 10mm plug and hose clamp for the hose. I cut mine after the first wire clip after the reservoir. I used a random m10 bolt as the plug.
Step 36.
Move the wires over, the top of the bumper has wire routing aluminum tabs, bend and secure and bend tighten.
Parking sensors
Step 25 - two tabs on sides. Release one side and rotate
Step 26 - ignore the metal tabs, there are two small plastic tabs at the bumper cover, get those thru, then pinch the metal and rotate thru the clips.
Step 27 - locate the cutout supports. Draw a line between them. Hit the cutout from the backside of bumper alternate sides of the line. It’ll rotate out easily
Step 28 no notes
Light washers
I cut mine out. You need. 10mm plug and hose clamp for the hose. I cut mine after the first wire clip after the reservoir. I used a random m10 bolt as the plug.
Step 36.
Move the wires over, the top of the bumper has wire routing aluminum tabs, bend and secure and bend tighten.
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- Thread starter
- #74
Bumper prep
Bumper trim clips
These are not used in my install. I suggest drilling out the rivets and removing completely. I left the fender side clips, but wish now I’d removed them.
Light washer support bracket. I bent this back. My first instinct was to cut it off. That would have been a better idea. I suggest cutting off.
Bumper trim clips
These are not used in my install. I suggest drilling out the rivets and removing completely. I left the fender side clips, but wish now I’d removed them.
Light washer support bracket. I bent this back. My first instinct was to cut it off. That would have been a better idea. I suggest cutting off.
- Thread starter
- #75
Bumper mounting
It should slide on as per step 33.
Identify the interference points, mark, and cut.
I had to cut a profile around the bulge at the outside of each headlight, and knock the top of the ‘point’ off both sides at the fender.
Eventually you’ll have it trimmed enough and it’ll slide home.
The bumper will be underneath the bumper cover crossbar by about 1/2”z
There will be a 1” gap to the headlights.
It should slide on as per step 33.
Identify the interference points, mark, and cut.
I had to cut a profile around the bulge at the outside of each headlight, and knock the top of the ‘point’ off both sides at the fender.
Eventually you’ll have it trimmed enough and it’ll slide home.
The bumper will be underneath the bumper cover crossbar by about 1/2”z
There will be a 1” gap to the headlights.
- Thread starter
- #76
Step 34. Put in all six bolts before you fall in love with a position. I used the two normal bolts as clamps to hold positions.
Step 35. When happy tighten it up
Step 35. When happy tighten it up
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- Thread starter
- #77
Lights
Step 37 and 38.
I claimed the plugs off the lights in the bumper cover. The green is positive on thr car side connector. White/black is negative.
Two of the weld nuts on my brackets were slightly misaligned and wouldn’t thread from the front. I ran the bolt thru from the back, which made space, then they could be threaded from the front.
One bracket was missing a weld nut
Step 37 and 38.
I claimed the plugs off the lights in the bumper cover. The green is positive on thr car side connector. White/black is negative.
Two of the weld nuts on my brackets were slightly misaligned and wouldn’t thread from the front. I ran the bolt thru from the back, which made space, then they could be threaded from the front.
One bracket was missing a weld nut
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- Thread starter
- #78
Wheel well plates
Step 39
These are really cool and functional.
The stainless clips go bump up, flat side toward bumper
The plate goes on top of bumper.
The plates go with the body mount cover pointed down. It matches closely to the frame horn.
If it looks like it doesn’t fit, get the other one.
Step 40 I used a washer too
Step 41 - first side I cut too short and had to zip tie a couple of holes
Second side I cut too long and will need to trim with a razor knife. Of the two options longer is better.
Step 42 no notes
On one side the wheel well cover had enough overlap with the bumper to screw it on. I made a hole and put a small rivnut in the bumper to secure.
On the other side it almost had enough, maybe 1/8” too little, so I didn’t rivnut it, I may go back and do this. I guess my bumper is out 1/8” Side to side.
Step 39
These are really cool and functional.
The stainless clips go bump up, flat side toward bumper
The plate goes on top of bumper.
The plates go with the body mount cover pointed down. It matches closely to the frame horn.
If it looks like it doesn’t fit, get the other one.
Step 40 I used a washer too
Step 41 - first side I cut too short and had to zip tie a couple of holes
Second side I cut too long and will need to trim with a razor knife. Of the two options longer is better.
Step 42 no notes
On one side the wheel well cover had enough overlap with the bumper to screw it on. I made a hole and put a small rivnut in the bumper to secure.
On the other side it almost had enough, maybe 1/8” too little, so I didn’t rivnut it, I may go back and do this. I guess my bumper is out 1/8” Side to side.
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- Thread starter
- #79
Putting it back together.
You’ll trim you bumper cover. It’s easier to do with no grill.
I used a oscillating tool and heavy shears.
Trim a little at a time. In this install it is possible to only use the fender triangle and the grill/ portion. That’s where I think I’ll end up, but there are other options.
When you are in final assembly, put some plastic connectors, like those in the engine room covers, into the bumper cover at the three holes at the bumper crossmember.
Then put the grill in
It’s the reverse of disassembly from there
Congratulations on your bumper install.
You’ll trim you bumper cover. It’s easier to do with no grill.
I used a oscillating tool and heavy shears.
Trim a little at a time. In this install it is possible to only use the fender triangle and the grill/ portion. That’s where I think I’ll end up, but there are other options.
When you are in final assembly, put some plastic connectors, like those in the engine room covers, into the bumper cover at the three holes at the bumper crossmember.
Then put the grill in
It’s the reverse of disassembly from there
Congratulations on your bumper install.
IMHO, the best looking bumper for our 200 series.
