Just read through your thread and the truck is looking great! I never would have considered bronze wheels on a white rig (they look awesome on black) but I'm digging how they look!
"Revamp" - My project FJ60 (SBC + Ranger OD / OME / etc...)
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- Thread starter
- #42
^^^ Thanks...
As promised, here's a not so great pic of the 4WD shifter (it's in 4-Lo)...notice how the boot is doubled-over, and how far rearward the shifter is:
( ^^^ sorry, that picture looked a lot better on my phone)
I also got my CB antenna installed yesterday (made a bracket to mount it on the rear bumper 'wing')...just need to complete the rest of the CB install.
- Brian
As promised, here's a not so great pic of the 4WD shifter (it's in 4-Lo)...notice how the boot is doubled-over, and how far rearward the shifter is:
( ^^^ sorry, that picture looked a lot better on my phone)
I also got my CB antenna installed yesterday (made a bracket to mount it on the rear bumper 'wing')...just need to complete the rest of the CB install.
- Brian
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You probably already checked this but what's the status of your transmission mount?
- Thread starter
- #44
^^^ Trans mount is in rough shape. I alluded to it earlier in this thread - Thought I had a replacement in the parts included from the PO, but it's not the right one. Smaller, probably a FJ62 trans mount (???).
Luckily, it's not completely torn on both sides...so it needs replaced, but not imminently.
- Brian
Luckily, it's not completely torn on both sides...so it needs replaced, but not imminently.
- Brian
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The FJ62 and 60 transmission mounts are the same from a distance, the difference is the spacing of the four upper bolts that bolt to the main transmission case. I know this because I accidentally ordered a 62 mount instead of a 60 mount (I have an H41) after breaking one. I'm still running that incorrect mount, two of the bolts line up! 
- Thread starter
- #46
Made a little more progress...
Got the windows tinted. I didn't want anything dark, just some sun / UV protection. Chose a 40% 'carbon' tint.
Good friend of mine does window tinting and vinyl wraps (Mike Body (@iconwrapz) • Instagram photos and videos)...
This crappy pic doesn't do it justice - It's far lighter than what it appears to be here:
Close-up pic:
Window tint is a must here in Florida, so I'm happy that it's done (and it should help save the interior a little, too!).
...
Also got my CB installed, and it's working great (Uniden 510XL / Firestick mount + HD spring + Firestick 4' antenna). Installed it on the drivers side of my locking center console, towards the rear (so I don't hit it when I buckle the seatbelt).
Ran the coax under the console and then down through the rubber body plug that's under the passenger seat. It then runs along the frame (with the fuel lines) and to the pass. side rear of the rear bumper.
To mount the antenna, I used a piece of 1/4" thick, 1" wide flat stock...made a bracket...and mounted it to the bumper 'wing' -->
(coax was not connected in this pic)
It's really solid, and the spring controls the movement really well.
The trip I've been working towards is now less than 2 weeks out - Need to get the proper front brake line installed, then do a once over on the whole rig...and I should be good to go!
- Brian
Got the windows tinted. I didn't want anything dark, just some sun / UV protection. Chose a 40% 'carbon' tint.
Good friend of mine does window tinting and vinyl wraps (Mike Body (@iconwrapz) • Instagram photos and videos)...
This crappy pic doesn't do it justice - It's far lighter than what it appears to be here:
Close-up pic:
Window tint is a must here in Florida, so I'm happy that it's done (and it should help save the interior a little, too!).
...
Also got my CB installed, and it's working great (Uniden 510XL / Firestick mount + HD spring + Firestick 4' antenna). Installed it on the drivers side of my locking center console, towards the rear (so I don't hit it when I buckle the seatbelt).
Ran the coax under the console and then down through the rubber body plug that's under the passenger seat. It then runs along the frame (with the fuel lines) and to the pass. side rear of the rear bumper.
To mount the antenna, I used a piece of 1/4" thick, 1" wide flat stock...made a bracket...and mounted it to the bumper 'wing' -->
(coax was not connected in this pic)
It's really solid, and the spring controls the movement really well.
The trip I've been working towards is now less than 2 weeks out - Need to get the proper front brake line installed, then do a once over on the whole rig...and I should be good to go!
- Brian
ufg8r
SILVER Star
Looking good Brian. Body does really good tint work.
ufg8r
SILVER Star
Oh, and replacing that transmission mount is an easy job if you think you need to take a stab at it before your trip.
- Thread starter
- #49
^^^ Yeah, I might pick up a replacement and have it shipped 2-day or something. Thanks.
...
One thing I neglected to post earlier: My power distribution panel. I mounted it to the bottom of the glovebox, ran a 8ga wire directly from the battery (fused, 25A), and I'm using it to power my radio head unit and CB radio.
The radio (mounted in the center console) did not have constant 12v hooked up when I bought the truck (?), so I couldn't set the clock or store radio stations - Kind of annoying. -->
(has room for 4 more 12v feeds, and indicator LED's if the fuse is blown)
...
Last night, I decided it would be best to have working windshield washer / squirters. My reservoir holds water, but it does not spray.
I pulled the pump, and hooked it straight to the battery...and nothing. I assumed it was frozen / seized (water intrusion?), so I pulled it apart to investigate. Seems like everything on these trucks is serviceable anyway!
It's just 3 metal tabs that can be pried back, and that lets you pull the motor out of the housing -->
My motor looked pristine inside...
You can see the tabs better here:
...as well as the gears that provide the fluid pressure. Mine were corroded, but with a little work...they free'd up, and I could spin the motor! I believe the ~7 years this truck spent sitting in a garage with boxes stacked on it allowed things like these gears, the rear door lock, etc...all to sit and corrode. I've been able to pull lots of things apart, clean 'em up, and they work good as new.
Anyway, the trick to reassembling is to get the motor back in the housing, THEN put the electrical leads back on the other end of the motor. Look closely at the first pic above, and you can see the spring loaded tabs that contact the tail end of the motor to provide the "juice".
The electrical connector is held in place by a small pin that you can drive out from the inside:
Pull that pin, and the connector pops right out.
Here are all the parts:
To complete the reassembly - Slide the motor/gear assembly back into the housing, pop the electrical leads back in place, reinsert the retaining pin, and VOILA!...working windshield squirters.
That's all I've got for now...more tinkering tonight, hopefully.
- Brian
...
One thing I neglected to post earlier: My power distribution panel. I mounted it to the bottom of the glovebox, ran a 8ga wire directly from the battery (fused, 25A), and I'm using it to power my radio head unit and CB radio.
The radio (mounted in the center console) did not have constant 12v hooked up when I bought the truck (?), so I couldn't set the clock or store radio stations - Kind of annoying. -->
(has room for 4 more 12v feeds, and indicator LED's if the fuse is blown)
...
Last night, I decided it would be best to have working windshield washer / squirters. My reservoir holds water, but it does not spray.
I pulled the pump, and hooked it straight to the battery...and nothing. I assumed it was frozen / seized (water intrusion?), so I pulled it apart to investigate. Seems like everything on these trucks is serviceable anyway!
It's just 3 metal tabs that can be pried back, and that lets you pull the motor out of the housing -->
My motor looked pristine inside...
You can see the tabs better here:
...as well as the gears that provide the fluid pressure. Mine were corroded, but with a little work...they free'd up, and I could spin the motor! I believe the ~7 years this truck spent sitting in a garage with boxes stacked on it allowed things like these gears, the rear door lock, etc...all to sit and corrode. I've been able to pull lots of things apart, clean 'em up, and they work good as new.
Anyway, the trick to reassembling is to get the motor back in the housing, THEN put the electrical leads back on the other end of the motor. Look closely at the first pic above, and you can see the spring loaded tabs that contact the tail end of the motor to provide the "juice".
The electrical connector is held in place by a small pin that you can drive out from the inside:
Pull that pin, and the connector pops right out.
Here are all the parts:
To complete the reassembly - Slide the motor/gear assembly back into the housing, pop the electrical leads back in place, reinsert the retaining pin, and VOILA!...working windshield squirters.
That's all I've got for now...more tinkering tonight, hopefully.
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #50
Front brake line is done (NAPA 38009) - That's definitely the part to use for SOA, and works for my application as well.
I didn't post a pic of my CB install - Nothing much to report, other than it's in and working well -->
(the location is actually really convenient)
I also did a once-over on the truck last weekend to be sure it's ready for some decent action later this week at Mardi Krawl. Loading it up tonight to tow it all the way to Tuscumbia, AL tomorrow...
It was raining, so I had it in the garage this weekend...and got carried away with cleaning up a couple things. I wound up polishing the whole truck! It helps the sticky Alabama clay/mud fall off a little better, and the paint needs all the help it can get.
But for now, it has a little shine:
Will have some good action shots for the next update, hopefully...
I have some concerns about my Edelbrock carb and stalling on a steep downhill...and there is plenty of those at Hawk Pride...so we'll see how that goes!
Stay tuned!
- Brian
I didn't post a pic of my CB install - Nothing much to report, other than it's in and working well -->
(the location is actually really convenient)
I also did a once-over on the truck last weekend to be sure it's ready for some decent action later this week at Mardi Krawl. Loading it up tonight to tow it all the way to Tuscumbia, AL tomorrow...
It was raining, so I had it in the garage this weekend...and got carried away with cleaning up a couple things. I wound up polishing the whole truck! It helps the sticky Alabama clay/mud fall off a little better, and the paint needs all the help it can get.
But for now, it has a little shine:
Will have some good action shots for the next update, hopefully...
I have some concerns about my Edelbrock carb and stalling on a steep downhill...and there is plenty of those at Hawk Pride...so we'll see how that goes!
Stay tuned!
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #51
As promised, action pics:
This ledge wasn't too big...but it leaned the truck enough to the drivers side to flood the engine (stupid F'ing Edelbrock carb!)
I thought I was going to have stalling problems on downhill sections (as I did when I was at Hard Rock in Ocala)...but it was the opposite. Anything that was really off camber, or really steep uphill...the fuel dumped from the bowls, and flooded the engine. Couldn't restart until I was on level ground (and then had to floor it and burn off all the fuel that dumped in...rinse and repeat).
But other than that, the truck did great. Had to really romp up some steep stuff (going way too fast for conditions) to keep the engine from flooding/stalling...and it took the beatings like a champ!
Mardi Krawl was a great event...the weather was damn near perfect...and my friends and brothers made wheeling all weekend just awesome.
I'll post more pics later (we screwed around a little on an RTI ramp - I'm impressed at my SUA flex!).
Anyway, just a quick update. I'll add more soon, for those of who are are still following along...
- Brian
This ledge wasn't too big...but it leaned the truck enough to the drivers side to flood the engine (stupid F'ing Edelbrock carb!)
I thought I was going to have stalling problems on downhill sections (as I did when I was at Hard Rock in Ocala)...but it was the opposite. Anything that was really off camber, or really steep uphill...the fuel dumped from the bowls, and flooded the engine. Couldn't restart until I was on level ground (and then had to floor it and burn off all the fuel that dumped in...rinse and repeat).
But other than that, the truck did great. Had to really romp up some steep stuff (going way too fast for conditions) to keep the engine from flooding/stalling...and it took the beatings like a champ!
Mardi Krawl was a great event...the weather was damn near perfect...and my friends and brothers made wheeling all weekend just awesome.
I'll post more pics later (we screwed around a little on an RTI ramp - I'm impressed at my SUA flex!).
Anyway, just a quick update. I'll add more soon, for those of who are are still following along...
- Brian
ufg8r
SILVER Star
Here's a couple I haven't sent to you yet....from the rti ramp...
Had I been thinking I'd have pulled mine up there to see if there was any difference on the ramp between the shackle reversal and my more standard ome lift.
Had I been thinking I'd have pulled mine up there to see if there was any difference on the ramp between the shackle reversal and my more standard ome lift.
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Any EFI plans?
- Thread starter
- #54
^^^ Yes. The 'once and done' solution is a Gen III Vortec, thinking a 4.8.
It'll make more power and torque than this tired old 305, is relatively inexpensive, and will be damn-near "bolt-on" in my rig (I need to reweld the motor mount brackets anyway, and that would be the hardest part).
...
A couple more pics:
Got here by the motor stumbling and dying. I was off to the right, but it stalled...I got it to restart, hammered on it, and slipped a little to the left. Started, spun, died, slipped left. Etc, etc..
Had to get winched out of the hole the pass. front got in to. Here's where I discovered the drivers side motor mount pulled through the bottom of the frame bracket - Motor was hitting the hood any time I applied power!
Fixed it later that night....no harm, sans a small dent on the underhood bracing.
Cool pic from right after unloading my rig from the trailer:
(alien stickers were on it when I bought it...but I dig 'em! Adds character!)
Getting dirty on the way to our lunch spot by the creek:
And finally, the first big hill I attempted (and where I learned of the carb problems that would plague me for the weekend):
(pics always make it look less steep?)
I have more of the RTI ramp, and a couple more I'd like to post.
Will do later.
- Brian
It'll make more power and torque than this tired old 305, is relatively inexpensive, and will be damn-near "bolt-on" in my rig (I need to reweld the motor mount brackets anyway, and that would be the hardest part).
...
A couple more pics:
Got here by the motor stumbling and dying. I was off to the right, but it stalled...I got it to restart, hammered on it, and slipped a little to the left. Started, spun, died, slipped left. Etc, etc..
Had to get winched out of the hole the pass. front got in to. Here's where I discovered the drivers side motor mount pulled through the bottom of the frame bracket - Motor was hitting the hood any time I applied power!
Fixed it later that night....no harm, sans a small dent on the underhood bracing.
Cool pic from right after unloading my rig from the trailer:
(alien stickers were on it when I bought it...but I dig 'em! Adds character!)
Getting dirty on the way to our lunch spot by the creek:
And finally, the first big hill I attempted (and where I learned of the carb problems that would plague me for the weekend):
(pics always make it look less steep?)
I have more of the RTI ramp, and a couple more I'd like to post.
Will do later.
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #55
Update:
I've been tinkering with the suspension a little, and just driving and enjoying my Wagon.
But after seeing the "W" shape my front springs made when on the RTI ramp back in April, I decided to reinstall the leaf I pulled from the front spring pack (the shortest one, on the very bottom). I think it's necessary for support of the other longer leafs...despite what I read previously.
Knowing that it was going to raise the front of the truck around an inch, I had to address the rears as well. I started looking for some longer rear shackles...which were harder to find that I would have expected!
I was assuming I needed a 5.5" hole-to-hole shackle (the OME rear shackles are 3.5" hole-to-hole), given that I've read you need twice the lift you're looking for (i.e., 2" taller rear shackles gives a 1" lift).
To test the length I needed, I bought some universal shackles from AutoZone (which, conveniently, had holes at 5.5" on center) and some M18 bolts (110mm length, which are too short for long term use). Cut the shackles to length, drilled out the holes to 3/4" diameter (just a little loose for 18mm bolts), and test fit.
With the front leaf springs back together, it came up just under an inch...and the 5.5" shackles added exactly 1" of rear lift.
Truck was looking good, and almost perfectly level (although I wanted a little more rear lift, for when it's loaded with crap in the back).
Thanks to @TallCanDan , I got some better looking / better performing 'anti inversion' side plates which measured 5.75" hole-to-hole. Bought some longer M18 bolts from Fastenal (140mm) and swapped them out:
(Also shown are OME greasable shackles (on top) - 3.5" hole-to-hole)
Installed:
And how the truck sits now:
This is probably about as high as you can get keeping it SUA...with OME mediums, shackle reversal up front, and the longer shackles in the rear.
With 33" tires, the fender openings measure 39" from the ground up front, and 38" in the rear.
...
I'm probably done messing with the suspension, and since I recently sold my track car and free'd up the garage space and $$$...I'm shopping for a LSx motor.
The cheap-ass in me says to buy a low mileage 4.8 (LR4 or L20)...but the car guy in me says to buy a 6.0 (LQ4, LY6, LQ9). We'll see.
Already making a parts list for the conversion from the current SBC motor (flywheel, flywheel bolts, motor mounts, fuel pump, filter/regulator, etc...)
I might start a new thread for the swap, once I have a motor in hand.
Anyway, thanks for reading.
- Brian
I've been tinkering with the suspension a little, and just driving and enjoying my Wagon.
But after seeing the "W" shape my front springs made when on the RTI ramp back in April, I decided to reinstall the leaf I pulled from the front spring pack (the shortest one, on the very bottom). I think it's necessary for support of the other longer leafs...despite what I read previously.
Knowing that it was going to raise the front of the truck around an inch, I had to address the rears as well. I started looking for some longer rear shackles...which were harder to find that I would have expected!
I was assuming I needed a 5.5" hole-to-hole shackle (the OME rear shackles are 3.5" hole-to-hole), given that I've read you need twice the lift you're looking for (i.e., 2" taller rear shackles gives a 1" lift).
To test the length I needed, I bought some universal shackles from AutoZone (which, conveniently, had holes at 5.5" on center) and some M18 bolts (110mm length, which are too short for long term use). Cut the shackles to length, drilled out the holes to 3/4" diameter (just a little loose for 18mm bolts), and test fit.
With the front leaf springs back together, it came up just under an inch...and the 5.5" shackles added exactly 1" of rear lift.
Truck was looking good, and almost perfectly level (although I wanted a little more rear lift, for when it's loaded with crap in the back).
Thanks to @TallCanDan , I got some better looking / better performing 'anti inversion' side plates which measured 5.75" hole-to-hole. Bought some longer M18 bolts from Fastenal (140mm) and swapped them out:
(Also shown are OME greasable shackles (on top) - 3.5" hole-to-hole)
Installed:
And how the truck sits now:
This is probably about as high as you can get keeping it SUA...with OME mediums, shackle reversal up front, and the longer shackles in the rear.
With 33" tires, the fender openings measure 39" from the ground up front, and 38" in the rear.
...
I'm probably done messing with the suspension, and since I recently sold my track car and free'd up the garage space and $$$...I'm shopping for a LSx motor.
The cheap-ass in me says to buy a low mileage 4.8 (LR4 or L20)...but the car guy in me says to buy a 6.0 (LQ4, LY6, LQ9). We'll see.
Already making a parts list for the conversion from the current SBC motor (flywheel, flywheel bolts, motor mounts, fuel pump, filter/regulator, etc...)
I might start a new thread for the swap, once I have a motor in hand.
Anyway, thanks for reading.
- Brian
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- 16,381
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- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
- Thread starter
- #57
^^^ Damn, wish I could.
I have family coming into town on Friday evening...and there's a dock with cold beer and decent fishing that will be my home for the weekend.
I'll make the next one (if the 60 has a motor in it at that point)!
- Brian
I have family coming into town on Friday evening...and there's a dock with cold beer and decent fishing that will be my home for the weekend.
I'll make the next one (if the 60 has a motor in it at that point)!
- Brian
- Thread starter
- #58
The deed is done.
Gen III Vortec, 4.8 liter (LR4, drive by cable) motor is on the way (!).
Why? To get the truck where I want it, I'd need to convert to fuel injection, redo the entire pass. side of the exhaust, upgrade the alternator, and likely rebuild the lower end and heads (valve seals, at least).
If I'm going to that much trouble, I might as well get a newer, low-mileage motor as well.
This motor has 84,xxx miles, and is out of a 2001 Silverado.
The truck, as of last night:
Battery is out, radiator is out,etc...making progress in 30 minutes increments. Such is life.
...
As a reminder, here's where we are: '87 FJ60 with a carb'd Chevy 305 V8 swapped in...using a Ranger Overdrive as part of the drivetrain conversion.
The Chevy bellhousing will bolt up to a LSx based motor, minus one bolt (a non-issue).
The flywheel is .400" further set in on your average LSx motor, as compared to a SBC, but there's a Sachs flywheel that is thicker, and makes up the difference: Part # NFW1050 (cheap, too - $70)
Will have to redo the motor mounts. Easy stuff.
But, I'd appreciate some input on a few other swap considerations from those "in the know". I've done a fair amount of research elsewhere, but it's time to read here (I know there a few recent swap threads with part #'s, etc...)
- Fuel Pump: External, Airtex E2000 (apparently a common Ford replacement - Readily available in case of breakdown) I think that's a no-brainer. Will likely run an all new feed line (AN?), and use the current feed as my return line (this motor has the regulator on the rail).
- Pilot Bearing: A usual 'old school trans' (Muncie, etc...) behind a LSx motor can use a Chevrolet Performance pilot bearing (#12557583)...I'm hoping my Ranger box has a similar shaft diameter where the pilot bearing engages it. I can measure once the SBC is out.
- Radiator: Hoses will be custom, pieced together from the parts store. The stock fan clutch should fit, but I'll need to build a shroud (did not have one before anyway). I'll add a secondary e-fan as well for the A/C.
- A/C: Hoses will likely be custom (again), as the custom set in there now (adapting a '99 Suburban compressor to the factory A/C setup) will probably not work. We'll see. I'm going to reuse the compressor on the new motor (and it's located on the pass. side bottom of the motor...whereas the current compressor is on the drivers side top). Might upgrade the condenser to a newer style as well (parallel flow).
...
So, hopefully it comes together in the next couple months.
You might be thinking WHY a 4.8? Well, it's rated at 270hp/295tq...the SBC in there now is probably 200/250 (on a good day), and stock power is 135/200.
So it's a huge upgrade over stock, and the limited TQ might help ward off breakage if I get an angry right foot.
I couldn't see spending nearly twice as much for a 6.0...and even the 5.3's were another $500 or more....for not much gain, in this application.
Plus, I should get pretty decent fuel economy with the smaller motor (which is important, in remote places or long highway drives).
Also: Reliability is paramount here, so I'm going to use stuff available at your average parts store over custom or specialty parts...if possible. If I break down 500 miles from home, I want to be able to source parts.
OK, I'm rambling now.
I'll update more as I go.
Thanks for reading.
- Brian
Gen III Vortec, 4.8 liter (LR4, drive by cable) motor is on the way (!).
Why? To get the truck where I want it, I'd need to convert to fuel injection, redo the entire pass. side of the exhaust, upgrade the alternator, and likely rebuild the lower end and heads (valve seals, at least).
If I'm going to that much trouble, I might as well get a newer, low-mileage motor as well.
This motor has 84,xxx miles, and is out of a 2001 Silverado.
The truck, as of last night:
Battery is out, radiator is out,etc...making progress in 30 minutes increments. Such is life.
...
As a reminder, here's where we are: '87 FJ60 with a carb'd Chevy 305 V8 swapped in...using a Ranger Overdrive as part of the drivetrain conversion.
The Chevy bellhousing will bolt up to a LSx based motor, minus one bolt (a non-issue).
The flywheel is .400" further set in on your average LSx motor, as compared to a SBC, but there's a Sachs flywheel that is thicker, and makes up the difference: Part # NFW1050 (cheap, too - $70)
Will have to redo the motor mounts. Easy stuff.
But, I'd appreciate some input on a few other swap considerations from those "in the know". I've done a fair amount of research elsewhere, but it's time to read here (I know there a few recent swap threads with part #'s, etc...)
- Fuel Pump: External, Airtex E2000 (apparently a common Ford replacement - Readily available in case of breakdown) I think that's a no-brainer. Will likely run an all new feed line (AN?), and use the current feed as my return line (this motor has the regulator on the rail).
- Pilot Bearing: A usual 'old school trans' (Muncie, etc...) behind a LSx motor can use a Chevrolet Performance pilot bearing (#12557583)...I'm hoping my Ranger box has a similar shaft diameter where the pilot bearing engages it. I can measure once the SBC is out.
- Radiator: Hoses will be custom, pieced together from the parts store. The stock fan clutch should fit, but I'll need to build a shroud (did not have one before anyway). I'll add a secondary e-fan as well for the A/C.
- A/C: Hoses will likely be custom (again), as the custom set in there now (adapting a '99 Suburban compressor to the factory A/C setup) will probably not work. We'll see. I'm going to reuse the compressor on the new motor (and it's located on the pass. side bottom of the motor...whereas the current compressor is on the drivers side top). Might upgrade the condenser to a newer style as well (parallel flow).
...
So, hopefully it comes together in the next couple months.
You might be thinking WHY a 4.8? Well, it's rated at 270hp/295tq...the SBC in there now is probably 200/250 (on a good day), and stock power is 135/200.
So it's a huge upgrade over stock, and the limited TQ might help ward off breakage if I get an angry right foot.
I couldn't see spending nearly twice as much for a 6.0...and even the 5.3's were another $500 or more....for not much gain, in this application.
Plus, I should get pretty decent fuel economy with the smaller motor (which is important, in remote places or long highway drives).
Also: Reliability is paramount here, so I'm going to use stuff available at your average parts store over custom or specialty parts...if possible. If I break down 500 miles from home, I want to be able to source parts.
OK, I'm rambling now.
I'll update more as I go.
Thanks for reading.
- Brian
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
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- 583
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- 16,381
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- Winter Park, Florida
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- www.cruisermatts.com
The front of the Ranger should look like the front of any GM Gen 1 manual truck transmission, IE stock SBC input shaft etc. Just pretend you are adapting an SM465 to your LS when ordering parts.
- Thread starter
- #60
It's the "should" that I'm afraid of...haha. But yeah, that's what I'm doing.
I expect it to be 19/32" (.594)...which works for the pilot bearing part listed above. I think. There's conflicting info online.
But it's supposed to be 15mm ID (.591), and the correct OD to fit the large (first) step of the crank (rather than recessed further, like a normal pilot bushing). This makes up that .400" difference from the pilot bushing standpoint.
I'll certainly post the measurements and confirm fitment once parts are in hand (they are all on shipping trucks, currently).
- Brian
