"Revamp" - My project FJ60 (SBC + Ranger OD / OME / etc...)

[CRUISERSAM86]

I'm doing a build with the ranger OD and a tbi 350. Could you post some pics of where your motor mounts are welded in? Also where the torque splitter shifter sits?

 

[orion]

I'm doing a build with the ranger OD and a tbi 350. Could you post some pics of where your motor mounts are welded in? Also where the torque splitter shifter sits?

^^^ Sure.

I'll hopefully be working on getting the locker installed tonight, and can snap a couple pics for you while I'm out there.

Stay tuned...

- Brian

 

[orion]

So I got the locker in, but forgot to grab pics for @CRUISERSAM86 ...I'll do that tonight.

Couple pics...just posting them because I took the time to take them...might as well:

And what went back in: One slightly used Spartan locker (the story goes that someone bought it for a front diff, ran it for a very short time...then pulled the whole thing for a re-gear and ARB).

Simple install: Drain diff, remove rear cover, remove 12mm bolt/pin for cross shaft, slide out cross shaft...

Remove loose gears, remove c-clips by sliding the axles in a little, and then slide the axles out a couple inches. Pull the rest of the loose gears out.

Install it straightforward, but requires a little finesse to get the parts in place, c-clips reinstalled, etc...

Will refill and test drive tonight, hopefully.

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

I would recommend (if you insist on bolts) that you put the SR bracket between the frame and those angle sections. Reason being is that you want that complete contact patch between the frame and front spring mount. Or make longer angle parts.

 

[orion]

I would recommend (if you insist on bolts) that you put the SR bracket between the frame and those angle sections. Reason being is that you want that complete contact patch between the frame and front spring mount. Or make longer angle parts...

I don't mean to continue to dismiss your input, but I'm afraid the pics and info I've posted don't tell the complete story.

Trust me when I say - That SR bracket is really solid as it sits. Compared to a "standard" SR install where it might be welded just to an un-reinforced frame (with no winch plate to keep the frame horns from twisting)...I've added a lot of extra steel, all of it tied together.

On top of the (4) 7/16" bolts shown above on the SR extension (which is really only acting as a brace to combat side-to-side flex), the area where the SR bracket meets the bottom of the frame is held on with (2) 7/16" diameter grade 8 bolts, going through a LOT of steel...

In the front, it is (from bottom to top): 1/4" thick SR bracket + 1/8" thick reinforcement plate + 3/16" thick frame + 1/4" thick winch plate. All held together with a fastener that's arguably stronger than the OEM rivets.

In the rear of the SR bracket: 1/4" thick SR bracket + 1/8" thick reinforcement plate + the frame is doubled up where I drilled for the fastener (roughly 5/16" thick).

I'm also adding a brace between the two SR mounts (directly below the winch plate) to tie them together.

Again - I'm open to the constructive criticism...but I have thought this through, and I believe overdone it.

If anyone else thinks I'm risking failure, please chime in.

...

As for the pics of my motor mount location and Ranger O/D shifter (for @CRUISERSAM86 ):

This shows the location of the pass. side motor mount bracket. I'm hoping your frame has the same drilled/tapped holes to use as a reference (not sure if there are differences between years (?))

http://www.ka24development.com/file_images/FJ60/pass-side-motor-mount.jpg

Here's a shot under the truck showing the 9-9.5" long shifter 'extension' coming off the Ranger box. The actual shifter attaches to this 1/4" bar:

http://www.ka24development.com/file_images/FJ60/ranger-shift-linkage-1.jpg (right side of pic = front of the truck)

And here's how the shifter sits (pardon my Microsoft Paint editing):

(yes, I'm missing a shift boot...looking for a suitable option)

I hope that helps...

- Brian

 

[gregnash]

Looking good Brian.. Not sure if the shift boot for the 4x from a RHD truck would work or not (does the shifter switch sides?) or you could possibly use another 4x boot and flip around?

 

[cruisermatt]

No, the transfer case shifter is always on the Right-hand side regardless of driver position. Maybe a generic Summit boot would work? Probably leather or cloth, as that's a weird angle to try to make a non-formed rubber boot work at.

Sounds OK on the SR Brian. Hard for others like me to judge these things from across the computer screen sometimes. Often safer to assume the worst.

Coming to Orlando any time soon?

 

[orion]

Looking good Brian.. Not sure if the shift boot for the 4x from a RHD truck would work or not (does the shifter switch sides?) or you could possibly use another 4x boot and flip around?

Thanks.

Good thinking - The 4WD shifter boot did cross my mind. Need to pull mine off and try it, I guess.

No, the transfer case shifter is always on the Right-hand side regardless of driver position. Maybe a generic Summit boot would work? Probably leather or cloth, as that's a weird angle to try to make a non-formed rubber boot work at.

Sounds OK on the SR Brian. Hard for others like me to judge these things from across the computer screen sometimes. Often safer to assume the worst.

Coming to Orlando any time soon?

I think that a generic Jegs / Summit Racing boot will be the ticket, ultimately. I could always ask my wife to whip something up on the sewing machine (although that's not her favorite tool!).

I don't make it down south too often, but I am planning a day trip to Hard Rock in Ocala soon...as a shakedown run for my truck. Need to test the truck, and my new trailer...make sure it's all good before pulling this thing to North Alabama for 'Mardi Krawl' in April. That's become a yearly get-together for my brothers and I.

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

How do you feel about this weekend for Hard Rock? I'm trying to get a few others to go to, and it's the first weekend of my spring break so I have to week to fix my 62 afterwards

If the weather is anything like it was today in Orlando it should be awesome.

 

[orion]

Wish I could have made Hard Rock today...actually know a Jeep guy from Gainesville who was there.

Maybe next weekend, if I'm lucky.

...

I did replace the pass. side exhaust manifold gasket on the old 305 V8 in the Landcruiser (sounds a lot better), and get a trailer brake controller installed in my F150...so I am 1 step closer.

- Brian

 

[orion]

Small update: Found some time to add a couple tie-downs in the rear cargo area.

Small d-rings from Lowes damn near fit the bolt spacing in the rear drivers side (part of the factory jack bracket)...I had to open up the holes by just 1/16" on each side.

To add one on the pass. side, I drilled a couple holes and used a backing plate underneath (that was really hard to get in place!).

These aren't for anything heavy-duty, just to keep a cooler or toolbox from moving around too much:

Next up: Reinforce the rear 8-10" of the frame where the (non factory) bumper mounts, so I feel safe using it for recovery.

Also need to open up the shackle mounts that are integral to the rear bumper. The holes are just under 3/4" diameter, and my shackles have a 7/8" pin. Hopefully the Dremel makes quick work of that - We'll see!

- Brian

 

[gregnash]

Do yourself a favor and get a nutsert gun and some good nutserts!
Looking good dude. Think you are going to have to post up a video of the SBC running and then driving with the Ranger.

 

[orion]

^^^ I actually have a nice RivNut tool, and a bunch of M6, M8, and M10 rivnuts.

But anytime I can access the other side of a panel, I try to reinforce it with as much surface area as possible (even if it's a pain in the ass to get to!).

As for a video - I could probably do that. Just got a replacement battery for my old GoPro!

- Brian

 

[orion]

Next up: Reinforce the rear 8-10" of the frame where the (non factory) bumper mounts, so I feel safe using it for recovery.

So, I wanted to replace the (6 total) 3/8-16 bolts that were holding the rear bumper on, as they were Grade 5 (probably strong enough, but better safe than sorry!).

I figured while I was back there...I'd make some reinforcement brackets that would tie the bumper mount into the frame a little more.

I used the (2) tow hitch bolt holes with a couple 7/16 Grade 8 bolts, and whipped up a bracket out of 1/8" thick angle iron I had lying around.

Drilled a few holes, hit them with some paint...and voila!

Done and done.

I'm slowly going broke, spending $10 every few days at Ace Hardware on Grade 8 bolts...haha.

...

Gonna brake out the Dremel and open up my shackle mounts tonight. Hopefully the little carbide bit can make a 3/4" hole into a 7/8" hole without too much effort.

- Brian

 

[FordFascist]

I don't quite understand the point of a Ranger OD. I've run a vehicle with an OD unit before and never really used the OD for anything other than final gear. All that gear splitting talk was just hype. I never used it.

For all the extra cost and complexity of having to move the drivetrain, I would think it would have been a benefit to simply go to a GM NV4500.

I'm not trying to bash your build or anything, just confused as to why all the extra effort to put in this massive OD unit and not really gain anything in comparison to a truck 5 speed.

 

[orion]

I don't quite understand the point of a Ranger OD. I've run a vehicle with an OD unit before and never really used the OD for anything other than final gear. All that gear splitting talk was just hype. I never used it.

For all the extra cost and complexity of having to move the drivetrain, I would think it would have been a benefit to simply go to a GM NV4500.

I'm not trying to bash your build or anything, just confused as to why all the extra effort to put in this massive OD unit and not really gain anything in comparison to a truck 5 speed.

In my case - I bought the truck with the V8 swap performed already. However, it's really nice to have the overdrive (I only use it as a 5th gear, not for splitting lower gears).

As for the complexity - It's actually a shortcut. You're gonna be welding in new motor mounts no matter how you slice it, and the Ranger O/D allows the rest of the drivetrain to stay in the factory location.

Win-Win, in my book. Except the cost.

I'm not sure I would have ponied up $$$ (edit: $1600) just to have the overdrive option. What's a regular adapter cost, $400?

It was a nice bonus, though, for me to find the truck with the work done and $$$ spent already.

- Brian

 

[cruisermatt]

Have you driven one of these with the 4-speed? In this day-in-age, ESPECIALLY in flat Florida, you need to have overdrive. And you dont even have the "proper" gears for your tire size.

An NV4500 plus the adapter to the split-case would probably end up about the same cost as a Ranger box.

Another nice thing is you can to the H55f transmission and have Double OD. The H55f by itself doesnt have enough OD for healthy motors in my opinion. On 200K mile 2F's it's a little better suited but for stronger motors like my fresh 3FE or your V8 it can handle the deeper OD, it's why I'm swapping an NV4500 instead of an H55f in my rig.

And as mentioned it keeps the transmission in the stock location and puts the V8 farther forwards for good placement in the engine bay. A very good product that I foresee myself using in the future for a different project.

 

[orion]

Update time!

Took the FJ60 to 'Hard Rock Cycle Park' this weekend. Wasn't sure I was going to make it, between a busy weekend (kids birthday party) and items I wanted to address on the truck and trailer. But we made it happen yesterday...

Hard Rock is primarily a motocross place, with tracks built around an old limestone quarry...but the rest of the land has lots of small / steep hills in and out of the quarries for 4x4's. About the only place around here to find any elevation change!

I was considering it a "shakedown run" - So no chance would I drag the wife and kids 1.5hrs without a way to drag my broken rig home! -->

My F150 towed beautifully (5.0 V8 with Firestone airbags in the rear)...

Got to Hard Rock and played around a little (in 2WD), just to see what the Landcruiser could do (relying only on the rear locker). It did great, climbed a few steep, sandy hills with relative ease.

But then it stalled (I let it die, not enough gas to start off), and it wouldn't restart? Has happened twice before - No click, no starter engagement, nothing. Turn the key, lights on the dash dim a little, but nothing else happens. Gotta be starter solenoid (voltage?), or ignition switch. I'm leaning towards starter solenoid, as it has only happened when hot. Ive checked connections, crimped a new end on the solenoid switched +12v wire, checked the ground, added an additional ground, etc...all with no change. And it so intermittent, it's hard to really troubleshoot.

We climbed a hill on foot to get the lay of the land:

Anyway, 10min later it fired right up (and gave me no hint of trouble for the rest of the day (?)...

Then I tried my 4WD, and found the driveshaft, as expected, is too short after the shackle reversal. No surprise (you'll see it was discussed earlier in this thread)...so that will need to be addressed. EDIT: Turns out, it was not the driveshaft...more below, update from 3/20/2016.

Didn't let that ruin my day - Running around in 4-Lo with the front hubs unlocked allowed me to scramble up pretty much anything I was comfortable tackling.

So, all in all...a good test. I'm happy with how well the truck did off road, and I identified the problem areas. And it really made short work of some decent climbs and rough terrain, even in what was effectively "2-Lo".

Needs some tuning (carb isn't perfect, and the ignition timing is too far advanced), but that's all easy stuff.

Have a CB to install and a few small items to address...then I'm dragging it up to North Alabama for 'Mardi Krawl' in a few weeks.

Thanks for reading...

- Brian

 

[orion]

Gonna brake out the Dremel and open up my shackle mounts tonight. Hopefully the little carbide bit can make a 3/4" hole into a 7/8" hole without too much effort...

Oh yeah, the rear shackle mounts. I took the easy way out and bought a pair of shackles with a 3/4" pin...so it was as easy as sanding the paint out of the holes...then plug and play.

They are 6,500lbs WLL, which should be good for 4-5x the rating for actual minimum breaking strength...so still plenty safe.

- Brian

 

[orion]

...found the driveshaft, as expected, is too short after the shackle reversal. No surprise (you'll see it was discussed earlier in this thread)...so that will need to be addressed.

False alarm...'twas not the driveshaft! The grinding I heard wasn't the driveshaft splines trying to come apart from one another, but the low range gears grinding.

Turns out, the lower half of the shift boot was knocking the transfer case shifter out of low range and partly into neutral when I applied any throttle. Sitting still, I could get it to click into 4WD Lo, but as soon as I took off...it was getting pushed part of the way into neutral by the movement of the drivetrain.

The placement of the motor / trans / transfer case must be a little rearward of the stock location, because the transfer case shifter was touching on the rear of it's opening in the trans tunnel. A little massaging to the metal (just bent the lip over), and I trimmed the lower shift boot rubber (it was torn from the rubbing anyway)...and now it's good to go. Guess I have a $80 paperweight in the form of a '4Crawler Off Road' driveshaft spacer!

Needs some tuning (carb isn't perfect, and the ignition timing is too far advanced), but that's all easy stuff.

Also of note: You'd be surprised at how well an SBC runs when the base (initial) timing isn't advanced to 22 degrees! I backed it off to 12 BTDC, and it actually has some low end torque! I thought the motor was getting a little tired, but it was just way out of time.

Amazingly, it didn't ping or knock (unless I was starting off with the Ranger box in overdrive = heavy load) and otherwise ran OK: Started fine, idled well, moved the truck along better than a 2F, etc...

But I was *really* surprised to find it so far out. It's fixed now...and the truck is running better then ever.

Will post a couple pics tomorrow. Thanks for following along...

- Brian