Restoring Suspension - Powdercoating (1 Viewer)

[yosshaa]

My 97 LC is coming up on 249k miles and going strong. Previous owner added
OME “stock height” lift with Tokico shocks, 10mm spring spacers, new steering stabilizer which at this point was a little under 20k ago. Past some bigger tires and maybe a 1" body lift to accommodate said bigger tires (34") I plan on keeping at the current height. I do some moderate off road (not a rock crawler)
With that context in mind...

After changing out the rear, front, transfer case, and tranny fluid I got to looking at the underneath and some pretty tired bushings. I plan on replacing the bushings in the sway bars (end links and brackets), lower control arms, rear trailing arms, pan rod, all four tie rods.

I don't see the need for adjustable pan rods or adjustable lateral braces as my height it still relatively stock. Since I am working with the stock 20 years old components here. I would like to have these stock arms, pan rods, bar etc sand blasted and powdercoated (maybe silver so possible leaks could be seen a little easier). I figure this would give me a good chance to have them inspected for stress cracks, dents, overall condition, and add a fresh coat of durable paint.
Is there any reason to think (bearings, grease, possible high heat damage, etc) I could's take the lower control arms, pan rod, steering rods etc down to the powdercoater?

Seems from reading that the rear trailing arms are some what of a weak link (pun intended) so I may go the route of a stronger product there but the front I intent to stay stock.

any input would be helpful.

 

[dogfishlake]

Those parts will be fine to powder coat. Just be sure to point out all the items you do not want coating on so they know what to mask and plug. Your business will me much more welcomed if you at least get the nasty greasy crud off, if there is any. It's always more fun to do business with customers that show they care about their cars and parts.
When they prep, your parts should be abrasive blasted, as you mentioned, but also be sure they are washed with an iron phosphate solution or a nano-ceramic adhesion promoter (like zirconium) . They may also offer a zinc/epoxy primer which is nice for harsh environments, but usually more $$. The cure temperature will likely not exceed 400° so it wont have adverse affects on those parts.

Good luck!

 

[Golgo13]

I've been down this road... be careful and make sure to do it quickly like removing a bandaid. My truck has been on jack stands while i took the time to have everything de-rusted, re-phosphated and e-coated. Then i found a shop to spray on 2-part urethane primer and industrial top-coat.

 

[ReformedJeeper]

Just use paint and not powder coat if you plan to wheel it. Those parts, especially the lower control arms are going to get scratched up. It's easier to paint every thing black and use a rattle can for touch up. Just my two cents.

 

[Golgo13]

Another thought would be that if you are insistent on the powder coating, at least do it in a color that is easy to match with a rattle can.
You're in AZ, so there isn't so much to worry about with rust. I'm in Michigan and want to be able to drive in the winter without worrying about the rust so much; that is why I went with the hardcore approach.
In AZ you just need to keep a light coat of oil which the truck is pretty good at doing already.

 

[yosshaa]

Thanks for the great feedback everyone! I have a great shop here locally that has done my motorcycle, mountain bike and a few other projects. I might just redo them back or a dark charcoal (definitely going to look for something touch up friendly)

When removing the lower control arms, pan rod lateral support, and the steering rods what on the front end needs to be supported, the chassis (frame rails), the axle, or both???

 

[yosshaa]

AZ Power Coat did an amazing job of making these 20 year old bits look new again. Got everything in a factory friendly matte black

 

[yosshaa]

Since I'm getting a feel for internet like this forum is, the things that look like smudges in the paint our grease paw print from me installing the poly end link bushings on the rear links and then touching the other parts when moving them to the ground for pics.

 

[dogfishlake]

Good call on the powder coat. If they do the process right, and price competitively, nothing will match it for durability or good looks. There are right and wrong uses for powder coating and this is definitely right!

 

[inkpot]

If your going to wheel much at all in Arizona, your radius arms and lower control arms will certainly be contacting ROCK. From dust up to boulders, it's all rocks. Even the best powder coat job will crack, chip, scratch, and eventually peel away. Powder coat is difficult/expensive to touch up. Under armour should be done with something that is quick, easy, and cheap to touch up. lrylon Sarin Black works well.

 

[dogfishlake]

If cured properly, powder will not crack or chip much at all. It can be scratched but way tougher than paint. Touch up procedure is the same as paint- clean, scuff spray/brush with paint. I do snow plow blades (not typical new plow coating jobs, those usually suck; I'm talking blast, preatreat, coat) that see lots of dirt and stone rolled over them that go years with only half the cutting edge worn off, none on the blade. You can wreck any coating basically but if I were going through all the trouble to tear something down completely, it deserves something really good. Powder is the toughest/most economical from that standpoint

 

[yosshaa]

Here's a shot of the control arms with fresh bushings pressed in.

 

[yosshaa]

Finally got the LC back together last Thursday, final push cam in replacing the tie rod ends, rod, and relay rod ends.