**Resolved** 1FZ-FE poor cold starts and wont idle (5 Viewers)

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just noticed the FSM also says to connect a Tachometer... do I really need to do this just to read and set ignition timing?

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Anyone know whether there's a way I can test the original ECU while it's out of the vehicle? I'm wondering why he replaced it. Maybe the 2nd hand one that went in isn't operating 100% either, despite no error codes. etc. I'm still fixated on why I'm not getting different timing values between diagnostic and normal modes.
 
Not out of, but there are several lists of ECM pinouts and associated voltages in the service manual, in the engine diagnostic section, which give the required operating conditions of a correct ECM.

The service manuals in the Resouces Forum are there for free.
 
Swapped the ecu over today with the other one dad had lying around (the original)..and it made no difference. I rechecked timing and it's still the same whether in diagnostic or normal Mode and jumps around in both modes when I rev the vehicle. I think I'm just about out of ideas here. The next step would be to take it to an auto electrician to start diagnostics. Car is still running like crap, very rich and gutless...has about 50% the power it should.
 
I'm thinking the dual fuel LPG system must be stuffing around with signals to the ecu. I may opt just to remove the LPG altogether. I'm sure it taps into the ecu and things like o2 sensors to modify trims by "tricking" the ecu etc. Could be why the car has been running like s*** since dad cooked the wiring loom and had it replaced/repaired. I think I'm searching for answers with all the normal the logical things and nothing is working, and this could be why.

o2 sensor plug has a cable tie.. but one of the wires also has electrical tape..
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Gas is for barbecues, it'll make troubleshooting easier if it's gone.
 
Tried to remove the front pipe from the exhaust manifold after soaking the hardware in penetrating oil every night for a week straight. One of the nuts started unwinding the thread from the manifold, and the other wouldnt budge, then I slipped off it, so gave up so I didn't round the nut (I've done that ever so slightly). Safe to say they are rusted and well and truly seized onto the studs pretty. I've decided to take it back to another muffler place that a mutual friend has recommended. They said the best course of action is to replace the factory exhaust manifold and front pipe with aftermarket extractors and front pipe from Redback Exhausts (a quality Australian made brand). He said he's done quite a few 1fz-fe and they are notorious for leaking at the manifold and at this junction over time. He does a full head stud replacement with the extractors too. It's about $1500AUD, so not cheap. I won't go down this path until I've sorted out the other issues with the vehicle, and had the LPG removed. I was hoping for a cheaper fix, but even if they only replace the front pipe, there's no guarantee it wont leak again.
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Description​

Redback Headers to suit Toyota Landcruiser FZJ80 4.5 Litre Outside Chassis 1FZFE
Features
  • Australian Designed and Made
  • Mandrel Bent
  • Coated with Premium Heat Proof Paint
  • Laser Cut Flange Plates
  • Large Pipe Work
Benefits
  • Improved Power
  • Better Sound
  • Increased Fuel Economy

Specifications​

  • Header Design: Tri-Y
  • Header Outlet Size: 063mm (2 1/2")
  • Header Primary Size: 045mm (1 3/4")
  • Header Secondary Size: 051mm (2")
 
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Found leaking heater hose today, which could very well explain the coolant loss that I was worried was due to a headgasket issue. At the back of the engine near the firewall, comes off the heater valve assembly. Have included both part numbers below (only replaced the hose, my heater valve assembly is fine).

Will check coolant levels after another couple of weeks of driving. Car will be booked in for LPG removal in the next month or so, then for the exhaust headers and front pipe replacement. After that, I'll see how it's running, then if still no good, it's off to the auto electricians to start diagnosis on ecu timing control, sensors, etc.


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Get some Irwin bolt extraction tools.

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These are great at removing rounded off nuts, and great at removing studs too.
I've had great success with these when I've though a bolt or stud was a lost cause.

If you get the exhaust unbolted, just replace the two studs in the manifold flanges, replace the nuts replace the gasket.

You can buy the Irwin tools at Bunnings or Amazon etc

All in, this could be less than $100 fix.
$1500 to ease your frustration is a big hit to the wallet.


Aftermarket extractors can have their own problems.


FWIW, studs and nuts for the manifold/head interface would be less than $100, new OEM from partsouq.com or your favourite alternative
 
Those work great with a cordless Impact driver, or a ratchet wrench.
If using a ratchet, they sometimes need a bit of a tap with a hammer to get them some initial bite.

I recently used one to remove a brake calliper bolt on my work truck. Someone must have really given it some curry with a rattle gun.
I was bending a 1/2 breaker bar before it let go. The Irwin tool worked flawlessly
 
mudgudgeon said:
Get some Irwin bolt extraction tools.

View attachment 3839917View attachment 3839918

These are great at removing rounded off nuts, and great at removing studs too.
I've had great success with these when I've though a bolt or stud was a lost cause.

If you get the exhaust unbolted, just replace the two studs in the manifold flanges, replace the nuts replace the gasket.

You can buy the Irwin tools at Bunnings or Amazon etc

All in, this could be less than $100 fix.
$1500 to ease your frustration is a big hit to the wallet.


Aftermarket extractors can have their own problems.


FWIW, studs and nuts for the manifold/head interface would be less than $100, new OEM from partsouq.com or your favourite alternative
Click to expand...
they don't sell those Irwin extractor sets at Bunnings or Amazon AU. There's another set of Irwins that look that same a place sells here, but it doesnt have a 14mm. It's about the only size it doesnt have haha!

We have a few different brand options, not much in 1/2", most are in 3/8'. I've got a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor if I need it I guess.

My options are:
Kinchrome set
ToolPro Set
Gearwrench Single
Gear Wrench 7 piece
Daytona set
Irwin set from UK
Suretorq

My original plan was to replace the gaskets on the current front pipe (which is aftermarket standard replacement), but the rusted/seized nuts, and the bent flanges, and possible alignment issues is what was throwing me off from doing it. Not one exhaust shop wants to do that repair for me. They all think it's asking for more trouble then it's worth. I'm happy to get my hands dirty, but after my attempt failed, I conceded defeat, before I made things worse.
 
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petegangies said:
they don't sell those Irwin extractor sets at Bunnings
Click to expand...
Bought mine in Bunnings a few years ago, sucks if they no longer have them.

The size on the label doesn't matter a lot. Take it as a guide.

The Irwin tool has tapered spiraled flutes in it. It's not a hex socket, the points are sharp, they are designed to bite into the sides of a completely rounded off bolt or nut, or stud. They work on a nut or bolt that is completely rounded off.
The tighter the bolt, the harder these will bite in.
The tool size just needs to fit partly over the end of the nut etc

The kinchrome and gearwrench style sockets are designed to grip the flat side of a nut. If the nuts are badly rounded, you're still sh¡t outta luck.

See if Amazon.com (You might have to log out of Amazon.com.au) will ship to you. I often had stuff shipped from Amazon USA to Sydney.
 
The likes of total tools and Gasweld have decent sets
 
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