Replacing rear propeller shaft

[guardcompany]

Anyone replace their rear propeller/drive shaft? Part number is 37110-6A650. Looks like it includes everything and the flange yolks just bolt up. Any experience, tips or tricks? Banana rating?

The FSM (attached) has a whole procedure for replacing the spider bearings and doing matchmarks but I don't think any of that is needed if I'm replacing the whole thing?

Thanks

 

[3_puppies]

why are you replacing the entire unit? only reason to replace it would be damage to the tube or the spider getting so worn it has worn the yoke.

it is a very simple operation. 4 bolts on the diff end and 4 nuts on the transfer case end. 1/2 banana job

 

[guardcompany]

why are you replacing the entire unit? only reason to replace it would be damage to the tube or the spider getting so worn it has worn the yoke.

it is a very simple operation. 4 bolts on the diff end and 4 nuts on the transfer case end. 1/2 banana job

Thanks! Yeah I damaged the tube pretty bad on a rock. I don't have to time it up or anything like that? Just make sure it goes in the right direction and bolt it up? Gonna order the part today.

 

[hoser]

Alternatively, take it to a driveline shop and re-tube it with thicker wall tubing. Drive around in FWD for the time-being.

 

[Grego]

I have replaced mine. Very easy job with 4 14mm bolts/nuts on each end. I had my damaged one retubed (several times) and carry it as a spare when I wheel out of state.

 

[87warrior]

Replaced my rear driveshaft a month ago. I had planned to replace the Ujoints then noticed excessive play in the slip joint so I got a new driveshaft.

It came fully assembled, flange to flange. U joints were even greased. Slip joint needed grease since it was shipped fully compressed. The paint on the new shaft is very thin, so I expect it will be covered in surface rust relatively quick.

 

[abuck99]

If replacing prop shaft on a lifted truck that sees offroad use- wouldn't it make sense to upgrade to a more robust driveshaft? Like a Tom Woods custom shaft: thicker tube wall, made to correct length (post lift)? The stock tube is pretty thin. Also a 2"+ lift extends the stock drive shaft outward so there is a little less spline engagement- maybe even less under full articulation. Or anyone had theirs re-tubed?

 

[guardcompany]

If replacing prop shaft on a lifted truck that sees offroad use- wouldn't it make sense to upgrade to a more robust driveshaft? Like a Tom Woods custom shaft: thicker tube wall, made to correct length (post lift)? The stock tube is pretty thin. Also a 2"+ lift extends the stock drive shaft outward so there is a little less spline engagement- maybe even less under full articulation. Or anyone had theirs re-tubed?

This is exactly what my first though was so I went to a local well respected driveline shop that does a lot of offroad vehicles and baja trucks. They offered to build and install me a custom spicer shaft for $600. After doing more research on here and asking some of the cruiser gods, everyone said go OEM. There are a couple threads here of guys never getting the vibrations out after moving to aftermarket. Maybe someone can chime in why as I can't find the threads right now...