Replacing Rear Axle Seals in '92 FJ80 (Semi-Floating Axle?) (1 Viewer)

[TheLoyale]

Before any flaming starts, I have searched all over, but I keep finding threads for the locking axles:

So after taking the 80 wheeling, I noticed that one of my axle seals is leaking now, dripping out of the Brake drum. Is there a writeup on replacing seals and possibly bearings on this axle? I heard that the Full Floating axles are easier and my Semi-floater is more of a PITA.

What is the correct way to go about this and what should I look for. Is there a clip inside the 3rd which locks the shafts into the diff or do they pull out like the front?

Also, does anyone make good quality or heavy duty replacement seals and bearings?

Thanks for an insight everyone can give me!

-Tom

 

[Alleycats]

You could try getting an FSM, I've had a look at this though and it looks like the hard part is getting the bearing race off the axle. As for parts I believe your going to want OEM parts for this application.

Peace out.

 

[Grim Reaper]

2 minutes with google I found this. Looks like decent part prices and a pretty straight forward repair. At least it's not like mini trucks where you have to press the bearing off the axle shaft.
http://www.jtoutfitters.com/pages.php?cID=2&pID=37&osCsid=1km85fj7u8f2oi11hf6c2un257

 

[Golgo13]

Tom,

I was really tempted to only provide this:
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=fj80 semi floating axle seal replacement
A FSM is a great idea too, but mostly for the torque specs.


However, since I recently did this and then threw away the axle housing, i'll offer up my experience.
It isn't hard at all, but maybe a little messy.
I don't have torque specs handy, but if someone else is kind enough to provide them, I'll edit in the post as appropriate

PARTS/Stuff you will need:
Bearings/seals - Go to AutoZone.com and order these parts
Seal(x2) Timken# 1959 (AZ#226824) $8.29ea - There is nothing wrong with these seals, they are as good, if not better, than OEM
Bearing(x2) Timken#513008 (AZ#228494) $29.99ea - The box says Timken, but thee are actually Koyo Bearings and are exactly the same as what you get from the dealer, but less than half the price.
Also pick up some good, oil resistant RTV. (I like Permatex brand stuff)
Don't forget the differential fluid!
Also get some WD40 Specialist Rust Penetrant spray
Multi-Purpose Grease

Then get in touch with your favorite Mud Vendor(@beno or @cruiserdan or another) or your local dealer and order these:
Gasket, Rear AxleHousing Cover P/N 42183-35010 ~$7.25
Nuts for rear diff cover(optional) P/N 94110-41000 ~$1ea
Lock Washers for rear diff cover P/N 94512-01000 ~$0.75ea
Form-In-Place-Gasket(Toyota FIPG, if you want to keep it all Toyota)
Gasket, For Drain/Fill plugs(x2) P/N 12157-10010 ~$1ea
I looked these parts up here :http://www.toyotapartsoverstock.com...=1992&ukey_category=21645&ukey_driveLine=6774

TOOLS you will need:
You're in WI, so I would imagine you have some rust to deal with.
Get these: Irwin Bolt Extractor Set http://amzn.com/B0000CCXVZ
12mm and 14mm wrenches/sockets + ratchet
24mm socket/wrench and/or Impact gun (To remove the fill plugs and panhard bolt)
Bearing Puller(you can rent this if you don't want to buy it)
Seal Puller
Jack/ Jack Stands
Hammer
Scraper
Cold Chisel
120 Grit sand paper
Seal/Bearing driver

PROCESS
1. Chock the front wheels and jack up the rear of the truck. You can place the jack right under the diff and lift both sides at once. Place your jack-stands as far outboard as you can in the axle housing. Do not set the parking brake, it won't do anything anyway. You can avoid a lot of misery if you
2. Remove the wheel nuts, wheels and brake drums.
3. Spray the diff cover nuts with the rust penetrant spray
4. Drain the diff oil. Remove the fill plug first, then the drain.
5. Remove the brackets which hold the parking brake cable, and LSPV arm. Then remove the bolt in the axle end of the panhard. This will take some torque. Removing the panhard is optional, but makes removing the diff cover a lot easier.
6. Have a you deserve it.
7. Remove the nuts holding the diff cover in place.
8. Remove the cover. This is a little tricky. Try to work a scraper in between the housing and the cover. Or use a chisel and hammer. When it is loose you will hear a hollow sound when you tap it from the side with a hammer. (If you F up the cover, let me know, I have a new one you can have for $20+Shipping.)
9. Repeat Step 6, put the transfer case in neutral.
10. Rotate the differential until you see a bolt on the pass side of the diff. This holds the cross-pin in place. Remove the bolt with the cross-pin pointing out the back. The pin has an exceptional slip fit in the diff.
11. Holding the pin in place, rotate the diff 90 degrees so that the pin is pointing up and down.
12. Don't let the pin just drop out, ease it out. Then put the transfer case in Low. (this helps prevent the diff from turning.)
13. There is a collar around the pin which retains the axe ends. Remove it.
14. The cross pin is out, so DON'T rotate the axles. If you do, the spider gears and their bushings will spin out of place. They are a real PITA to put back correctly.
15. Give the axles a gentle tap from the wheel end. This will drive them in far enough to remove the C-Clips
16. Remove the c-clips.
17. Slide out the axles. Inspect them for scoring/damage on the bearing and seal surface. If they are bad, get in touch with @arcteryx(CruiserYard) for used replacements.
18. Remove the seals.
19. Remove the bearings.
20. Clean up and scratches/scoring in the axle housing with the sand paper
21. Pack the bearings with grease and install.
22. Install the seals and lube with a little more grease.
23. Add a little grease to the axle bearing surfaces and slide them back in. Be gentle so you don't damage the seal or bearing
24. Repeat Steps 16 through 8 in reverse.
25. Clean the old gasket off the diff cover. Get it real clean and degrease it. Same for the axle housing mating surface.
26. Apply the RTV or FIPG to both the cover and the housing. Make sure to go all the way around each stud/stud hole. It doesn't have to be pretty, but it should be pretty even.
27. Install the cork gasket onto the housing. Pay attention to the notches for the ring gear.
28. Install the cover, washers and nuts. Torque the nuts a little at a time in a cross pattern to get nice, even seating of the cover. Torque to spec(or Chevy-tight is ok too).
29. Repeat steps 5 through 1 in reverse.
30. Repeat Step 6.

I'm sure I missed something and someone will correct me if I did.
Let me know if you need more detail.
Hope that helps!

Lex

 

[TheLoyale]

Lex, that was more than helpful. Thank you.

BTW, I have a 1992 Paper FSM, but it doesn't really give a decent writeup on the process. The FSM is indeed handy, used it a bunch of times so far (Mostly Trouble shooting engine errors)

 

[Golgo13]

There are some things in which the FSM is lacking. I have a '92 full of rusty parts and it can be a challenge to figure out what to do sometimes. Thank goodness I also have access to part drawings!

If you need further assistance, feel free to PM me.

 

[jonheld]

The majority of the procedure is correct, but step 21 is slightly wrong. A semi-float rear uses no grease. You should coat bearings and seals with grease for re-assembly, but there is no need to pack the wheel bearings.

I also question the statement, "There is nothing wrong with these seals, they are as good, if not better, than OEM".
The OEM seals lasted 22 years. That's worth the price of admission in my book.

You also made it sound real easy to remove the seals and bearings in steps 18 and 19. The seal will come out with a seal puller, but the bearing requires a bearing puller that can be braced from the outside of the axle tube. It can also be difficult to install the new bearing as it is a press fit into the axle housing. Take your time and make sure it's being driven in straight. I used a large socket and rubber mallet.

 

[Copenhagen1]

It would also be a good time to install an Aussie or a Lokka brand lunchbox locker.

I put in new seals and bearings in my 77 FJ40 semi floater. It is very much the same as my 92. I know for a fact if I ever get into the 92, I will install a $300 lunchbox locker 'while I'm in there'.

Good luck!

 

[TheLoyale]

From what I've heard a locker can't be put into the non-locking 80/60 series axles as the housing is different than the factory locking axle. But maybe this only applies to putting the factory E-locker in a non locker axle.

Thank you all for the advice!

 

[Bauer24]

Thanks for the step-by-step Lex! This is my weekend project.