replacing heater hose

[g-man]

I need to fix a leaking heater hose on the heater valve that resides on the firewall. When I turned my heat on the hose leaks coolant at the valve. Also leaks on the other end where it goes in the pipe coming off the head. I know nothing about those cotter pin style clamps. Are the put on with a special tool?

squeeze the clamp with a tool and place the cotter pin?

Do I just pull the cotter pin out to remove them?

Are they available still?

 

[cps432]

They aren't reuseable. Vise grips on the cotter pin should pull it right out. Sometimes they're rusted and you've got to destroy it to remove it. Actually you've got to destroy it either way.

 

[g-man]

And replace the clamp with a wide band clamp that spreads the pressure out minimizing the chance of crushing or making the pipe oblong?

 

[OSS]

The water valve nipple is thin brass and very easy to crush with a worm screw hose clamp. Don't use those or you'll have a leak (when you crush the nipple). In fact, it's best not to use worm screw hose clamps on anything in your cruiser.

Toyota makes a special spring clamp for the water valve. Only use that clamp. And for all the other cooling hoses on the car, use the Toyota double loop clamps. They're very inexpensive and superior to stainless steel worm screw clamps (which damage the hose and don't clamp evenly).

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I need to fix a leaking heater hose on the heater valve that resides on the firewall. When I turned my heat on the hose leaks coolant at the valve. Also leaks on the other end where it goes in the pipe coming off the head. I know nothing about those cotter pin style clamps. Are the put on with a special tool?

squeeze the clamp with a tool and place the cotter pin?

Do I just pull the cotter pin out to remove them?

Are they available still?

The water valve nipple is thin brass and very easy to crush with a worm screw hose clamp. Don't use those or you'll have a leak (when you crush the nipple). In fact, it's best not to use worm screw hose clamps on anything in your cruiser.

Toyota makes a special spring clamp for the water valve. Only use that clamp. And for all the other cooling hoses on the car, use the Toyota double loop clamps. They're very inexpensive and superior to stainless steel worm screw clamps (which damage the hose and don't clamp evenly).

This is the Heater Hose spring -Type Clamp u will Need


@OSS is right , DO NOT use a screw-down type clamp of any kind on the heater valve , its

thin yellow brass and will crush inward under the load , then leak on Ya.....



also , cut off the old hoses with a razor blade in a vertical motion , Do Not try to twist them off , the brass tubing may bend like a candy cane ..

 

[g-man]

@RAGINGMATT, I went into the dealership looking for a spring clamp to fit my 5/8" napa heater hose. The girl behind the counter left and came back and said they had nothing. Then I pulled up this thread and asked her to look up the part # for the clip in the bottom of your image. She had them in stock. I bought 4. They look too big for the 5/8 hose until you realize that when you pull the metal tab off it will shrink down and snap in place. Perfect fit. Thanks much.

BTW...and for anyone looking the heater hose that goes from the valve up high on the firewall over to the head is NLA (toyota part# 87245A) but NAPA sells NAPA hose part # 9808 and 9809 that will fit with some trimming.

 

[Cruzerman]

I've used some worm gear clamps, but even I have to admit that Toyota makes awesome clamps.

 

[g-man]

I cut the original cotter pin style clamp off with cut off wheel. Dremel would prob been more suitable. Then sliced the hose down the end with a box knife. The brass pipe to the valve looked clean w/no corrosion. The pipe on the head was a bit cruddy. Sanded it down a bit with some emery cloth.

 

[UGA2018]

Yes just pull that old clamp off. I used pliers and twisted it until it broke free. Then just use a regular hose clamp that you can get a Home Depot. It doesn’t need to be anything special.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

u must exercise Caution when removing that purple Metallic metal Tab , its under a deceiving HUGE amount of Tension or Pre-

Load , whatever the Term is , It can take your EYE Out or and has with me flew off , hit my knuckles and finger tips and drew Blood

give it the Death Grip with snap on grade flat nose pliers for sure when final removal takes place

 

[3_puppies]

if that 1 hose is bad/leaking, my suggestion is to change them all. I just did a 62 series and there are a lot of them, don't forget the ones underneath the body going to the rear heater.
All the ones I did weren't leaking but original and 31 years old.