replacing AHC globes/accumulators (1 Viewer)

[Longmark999]

Glad yours came off easy. Mine were only about 2 years old and fought be hard! I ended up drilling a hole in it, then stuck a screw driver and used a ratchet strap to get it to move!
Order in which tools were used:
View attachment 3478401

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That looks brutal. I've been lucky because my LX470 spent most of its life in Florida so everything I've worked on so far has been very easy, at least in terms of removing the nuts and studs and bolts. Drilling a hole in the accumulators is a big step. No turning back once you do that!

 

[ClassyJalopy]

That looks brutal. I've been lucky because my LX470 spent most of its life in Florida so everything I've worked on so far has been very easy, at least in terms of removing the nuts and studs and bolts. Drilling a hole in the accumulators is a big step. No turning back once you do that!

My accumulators were only 2 years old but I am hoping it was just a faulty part.
My truck is also from Southern California and doesn't have any rust at all. Everything else I have worked on has been super cooperative.

 

[rmhrc630]

I'd also suggest letting the vehicle sit with the AHC in Hi for an hour or two, then Lo and let it sit for a few minutes. And do this for a few cycles. This removes trace amounts of gas in the sytem. I did this after major work on my sytem and went from "pretty good" to "whoa this thing is a limousine!"

The theory is this: The high pressure of putting the system in high allows trace amounts of gas to be dissolved into the oil; leaving it for an extended period gives this time to happen. Putting it in low moves the maximum amount of fluid to the reservoir (at 0psi) and allows that gas to break out of the oil again. A few cycles is required.

I also advise that you do this every so often to facilitate cycling the fluid through the reservoir.

Thanks mate

Parked and left it in hi overnight. (8-10hrs parked)

Should I leave it in low for same amount of time ?

And do that several times?

 

[fussychicken]

Did this job a few weeks ago and am so glad I did. I had 4 grads before and now have the recommended 14. SO much better over speed bumps and in general is smoother all around.

The rig:
2001 LX470 with 250k miles. Sunbelt car (TX & CA) so not too rusty. The Globes that I took off matched the build date of the car, so yes, they were 22 years old.

Where to buy Globes:
I first tried Impex, and it all seemed to go smoothly, but then they told me it would take 4-6 weeks for them to source the globes, so that was annoying. I see there are plenty on ebay, but they were ~$100-200 more and I was being a cheapskate so I wanted to go with a set from Japan. So I canceled the Impex order and tried a different Japanese vendor that was mentioned in this thread. “MOTORS HEAD JAPAN” MOTORS HEAD JAPAN | Export Japanese Auto, Diesel, Motorcycle Parts - https://www.parts-sale.jp/ Just wanted to say these guys were great. They were actually slightly cheaper than Impex and they were able to get them to me in about 2 weeks.

Where to buy Fluid:
It appears the great fluid shortage from a few years ago is over? Was able to order from Decatur Toyota for something like $30 per 2.5L can. Fluid worked great so I think no issues there anymore.

Replacement:
Bleeders had a touch of rust, but with some PB blaster I didn’t have any issues. Also got lucky and the 36mm wrench on amazon worked great. Didn’t need any hammers or chisels for the globes. I realize I’m lucky to have a sunbelt car, and have to say it is nice when doing jobs like this. I was once again being lazy and found that I didn’t need to take off any running board brackets and I also didn’t jack up the car. I was able to do this all just sliding around on a cardboard box. I DID however purchase the OEM tools fluid extractor however and that was great. Made this such a clean and easy job.

Results:
As mentioned above, this was great! I know I’m doing this backwards, but next I want to try and get techstream setup so I can check the pressures. Big thanks to YodaMD for making this great video: YodaMD AHC Video and for @PADDO for so much of the original research. I plan to follow this next. I’m guessing my springs are all a little tired, so hopefully I can crank the torsions a touch more.

Update 1:
OMG, you gotta get techstream running, check your pressure and crank those torsion bars! I knew I was doing this AHC update “backwards” by doing the globes first, but I’m very happy I was able to get techstream up and running so I could go back and check this. As expected my pressures were high, but weren’t as bad as I was worried about. The fronts were about 7.2 MPa and after the torsion bar crank down to around 6.4 MPA, the ride is EVEN SMOOTHER. It is wild. My rear pressures are about 1 MPa high (~6.6 MPa) so I have some 30mm spacers on the way. Can’t wait to see what these do!


Some ooooold globes in there:

 

[AtoyotA]

Here's something I’ve provided to others:

I've done the changeouts two ways: combined with a full bleed and fluid replacement and I've tried a "low fluid loss method". You could probably combine both methods too. Have you got your 36mm ford fan clutch wrench from auto zone and a spare can of fluid?
Method 1. Last globe changeout I did I dropped it to L, engine OFF, bleed all 5 bleeders down to the point where fluid stops flowing (total about 1 liter) so the truck is sitting on the bump stops and then sucked out the reservoir and dumped in a full can of fresh fluid as per my quick and easy 1 can method. So you've got truck on bumps, no pressure behind any globes and a full reservoir. Unscrew old and replace the new globes, you can try and put a bit of fresh fluid in the throats of each globe but it just spills out really, but do wet the O ring with fluid. There is some spec for globe tightness but I just tighten them up and give them a bit of a nudge. After all the fan clutch wrench is 13 or 14 in long so you've got plenty of leverage there. I guess I tighten them to maybe 40 ft lbs? So when you've done the four globes start her up and it will recharge everything and then raise her to N. The fluid level in the reservoir should be a bit above max. Turn her OFF and give each corner a quick bleed, just an ounce or three till there are no bubbles. Start her up again and confirm the fluid level is good, if the level is a bit over max is ok too and you're done.
The other low fluid loss way I've done it is:
Vehicle off, at N height and jacked up the front so both front wheels are off the ground. Crack a front bleeder to relieve pressure (both sides will depressurize as they are hydraulically connected) then spin off/spin on the new globe after wetting the o ring with fluid. Move over to the other side and repeat, crack the bleeder just to make sure there is no pressure but it'll be fine. Tighten the front up, drop her back on the ground and then do the back the same way, both wheels off the ground, relieve pressure and spin off/spin on the new. Keep approximate track of just how much fluid you've drained at each corner and add that much fresh back into the reservoir, plus a cup or two for bleeding each corner. You won't bleed that much out with the wheels off the ground and the shock actuators at full extension. On the ground start her up and give each corner a bleed till no bubbles. I try and keep track of how much I'm bleeding out so I don't run the risk off getting too low in the reservoir. A quick confirmation check bleed at the height accumulator is probably worth it too. Hope this helps.

once you bleed the globes, can/should you put that fluid back in the reservoir?

 

[Moderator]

once you bleed the globes, can/should you put that fluid back in the reservoir?

 

[uHu]

once you bleed the globes, can/should you put that fluid back in the reservoir?

Definitely not. The point is to renew the fluid. There is no circulation of fluid in the ahc system, only a bit of back and forth. The fluid that moves between the shock and the globe will contain any and all of humidity/water, and pollution, e.g. from globe membranes. The fluid is also slowly broken down by passing through the small valves in the actuators. Fill in new fluid at the top, let out dirty fluid at the bottom, just like you do with the brakes every year.

 

[APG]

I did the four globe replacement and fluid exchange on my '05. Made a significant improvement in ride quality after 220,000 miles. The bouncy and harsh ride is smoother and the truck sits higher. I bought four globes from IMPEX for $450 and $83 in shipping. AHC fluid was $60 at the local Lexas dealer. Well worth the investment. I'd say the job took me about 4 hours with regular breaks to check back here.

My only hiccup was I didn't remember that the front and back globes are different sizes... easy to figure out when you can't fit the rear globe in the front space.

 

[Anas1518]

I did the four globe replacement and fluid exchange on my '05. Made a significant improvement in ride quality after 220,000 miles. The bouncy and harsh ride is smoother and the truck sits higher. I bought four globes from IMPEX for $450 and $83 in shipping. AHC fluid was $60 at the local Lexas dealer. Well worth the investment. I'd say the job took me about 4 hours with regular breaks to check back here.

My only hiccup was I didn't remember that the front and back globes are different sizes... easy to figure out when you can't fit the rear globe in the front space.

Ive been looking at the globes from impex. I see there are two different ones with the same part number. Is there a difference between the two apart from the price? I know the Toyota ones say FR or RR but on the website I only find two.

 

[APG]

Ive been looking at the globes from impex. I see there are two different ones with the same part number. Is there a difference between the two apart from the price? I know the Toyota ones say FR or RR but on the website I only find two.

The 49151 are for the rear and the 49141 are for the front.

 

[IndroCruise]

In Toyota/LexusSpeak
FR means FRont (it does not mean Front Right as some may think)
RR means ReaR (it does not mean Rear Right as some may think)

 

[Mark WV]

I’m no expert, but I have changed globes on a couple of vehicles.

If the globe will not break loose with a fan clutch wrench, then just get a hammer and chisel and use the sharp part of the chisel
on the widest part of the globe turning the globe in a counterclockwise direction. After a quarter turn or so it can then be easily removed by hand or with a wrench

I would NOT suggest drilling into the globe as depending on which side of the diaphragm you hit you may end up with face full of very high pressure oil/ nitrogen.

 

[altivec]

Ive been looking at the globes from impex.

Just a heads up - I looked into buying from Impex but they have a warning on their site about things they can't ship:

We cannot ship item contains the following materials:
...
- compressed gases, such as spray paint, and gas filled suspension parts (gas filled shock absorbers, etc.);
...
Please note that in the aforementioned cases, cancellation of the order will not be accepted. Please make sure the items you are about to order do not fall under these restrictions.

I have read accounts of people buying suspension globes form Impex on this forum and others, but it seems like a risky gamble if there is a chance they can't actually ship them and you're out the cost of the parts.

 

[TexLexican]

Just a heads up - I looked into buying from Impex but they have a warning on their site about things they can't ship:



I have read accounts of people buying suspension globes form Impex on this forum and others, but it seems like a risky gamble if there is a chance they can't actually ship them and you're out the cost of the parts.

I think their disclaimer is referring to shipping chemicals. I’ve ordered globes on two separate occasions and it’s not shady at all even though their website isn’t too user friendly. This last time it only took a week for the globes to come in.

 

[altivec]

My concern, I suppose, is that it may come down to the individual person packing the order realizing they're nitrogen-filled and that its a dangerous goods violation.

 

[AtoyotA]

My concern, I suppose, is that it may come down to the individual person packing the order realizing they're nitrogen-filled and that its a dangerous goods violation.

i wouldn't worry about it. but if you're really risk averse you could order one at a time.

 

[gregdawg89]

I think their disclaimer is referring to shipping chemicals. I’ve ordered globes on two separate occasions and it’s not shady at all even though their website isn’t too user friendly. This last time it only took a week for the globes to come in.

I ordered all four AHC globes from them in December and had no issues whatsoever with shipping to my U.S. residence. Easy-peasy.

 

[Jack90210]

They'll ship globes but not shocks.

 

[Scrappy]

I’m

well.... I guess i'll give you the credit for the win. This is exactly what I did, (like EXACTLY - yet with no results), before I posted my "venting" post about how nothing was working. I had a beer, took a breath, and went back at it. beat the SH*T out of them, and.....VOILA!

Lesson: sometimes a cold one IS the answer. and friends on this board.

Can anyone give me some words of inspiration/advice? I’ve been going at my globes for 2 hours with a combination of a 36 mm wrench, hammer and chisel, and penetrating fluid. Absolutely zero luck on any of them

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Keep at it. It will come out eventually. Mine gave me a bloody fight too!

Builds - The Story of Blue

Parts replaced: 16307-50012: BRACKET SUB-ASSY, FAN 13540-50030: TENSIONER ASSY, CHAIN, NO.1 90105-08178: BOLT, WASHER BASED 16604-50030: PULLEY SUB-ASSY, IDLER, NO.2 13503-50011: IDLER SUB-ASSY, TIMING BELT, NO.2 13568-59095: BELT, TIMING 13505-0F010: Engine Timing Belt Tensioner Pulley...

forum.ih8mud.com

Can anyone give me some words of inspiration/advice? I’ve been going at my globes for 2 hours with a combination of a 36 mm wrench, hammer and chisel, and penetrating fluid. Absolutely zero luck on any of them