WOWSERS!!!!! I had no idea the walls were that thick. I was thinking maybe 2x beer can thickness. Hadn't considered how much pressure these things have to hold.
replacing AHC globes/accumulators (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter pete100
- Start date
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WOWSERS!!!!! I had no idea the walls were that thick. I was thinking maybe 2x beer can thickness. Hadn't considered how much pressure these things have to hold.
I’m nerding out over this pic, thank you for posting! No way I was going to get through all that with an 18v drill. I’m actually surprised, because the pencil tests shows all my diaphragms are still intact. My guess is they’ve just so worn out (2003 with 270k miles) that they’ve lost their charge - only 5 gradations. I can’t wait to see how different the ride is when I get the new ones on!
I'm at a loss. I went through 3 36mm fan clutch rentals from the auto parts stores - all were out of spec. I ordered a brand new one off amazon - waste of money as it wasn't in spec either. One yank on the accumulator and the new wrench opened up even wider, so it's useless.
I've been spraying with PB all week. I have been going to town with the chisel and hammer for an hour this morning and I can't even get one accumulator to budge. the strap wrench is useless at the moment. I'm struggling hard and i'm not sure there's any advice I could be given that I haven't tried already - I'm just venting. and hoping for some miracle solution to present itself.
these things are ON THERE.
I feel your pain, I was staring down the thought of towing it to Lexus to fix $$$ How are you using the chisel? I held the chisel to the globe in roughly the 5 o’clock position and whacked it a few times to make an indention so the chisel would have something to hold onto. Then with the chisel almost parallel to the ground, start hitting it with the sledgehammer in solid clean motions. Took about 3-5 hits to break the globes free. Then they just came out by hand.
Hopefully that was clear, if not I can try to sketch up a little diagram to post!
When its time to do mine, I am just going to buy a 'slugging wrench' and grind the end down thin enough to fit behind the Globe.
The fan clutch wrenches available (most of them) seem to be over-sized and made of a relatively weak metal. Neither of those things are helpful when trying to remove a stubborn part.
Please report back when you are finished. I am going to replace mine sometime this year and I am interested to see how the globes you are using compare to OEM Toyota. I'm sure you know...that after installation and bleeding the system, you'll still need to adjust the pressures front to back for best results.
well.... I guess i'll give you the credit for the win. This is exactly what I did, (like EXACTLY - yet with no results), before I posted my "venting" post about how nothing was working. I had a beer, took a breath, and went back at it. beat the SH*T out of them, and.....VOILA!
Lesson: sometimes a cold one IS the answer. and friends on this board.
Glad you got them off - sometimes all you need to do is regroup and rehydrate
Any chance you can take a picture of the valve looking part in the middle of the rubber diaphragm? Top and bottom would be interesting.
Glad you got them off - sometimes all you need to do is regroup and rehydrate
^^^^^^^ Good to take a break sometimes, then go back at it.
I like to think of it as 'nagging' a part off. There is no other explanation for those times when you are doing EXACTLY the same thing...(the same way) as you were 15 minutes ago...only NOW the part comes loose/off.
Go figure.
for anyone interested, I got the globes replaced, got fresh fluid in the system, and started her up this afternoon - but it didn't work. I mean....the whole AHC didn't work.
I figured I'd gotten air into the system during the swap, kinda to be expected as I completely removed the pump/reservoir to clean the old nasty fluid out.
My experience replacing the pump-sub assembly back in january armed me with enough knowledge to think I had an AHC code.
Took me about 2 hours to locate my techstream cable I bought months ago to diagnose my non-working AHC, but when I found it, scanned it, and read the codes, the exact code I was expecting showed it's face. c1762 - fluid pressure abnormality. Now I know exactly how to bleed the air out of the system. Which I will get to in the morning once the sun is back out. I just need to, "bleed air of AHC & skyhook TEMS hydraulic system"
I guess the only reason I'm posting this is to say thank you to any, and everybody who helped me along the way getting this thing back into tip-top shape.
I figured I'd gotten air into the system during the swap, kinda to be expected as I completely removed the pump/reservoir to clean the old nasty fluid out.
My experience replacing the pump-sub assembly back in january armed me with enough knowledge to think I had an AHC code.
Took me about 2 hours to locate my techstream cable I bought months ago to diagnose my non-working AHC, but when I found it, scanned it, and read the codes, the exact code I was expecting showed it's face. c1762 - fluid pressure abnormality. Now I know exactly how to bleed the air out of the system. Which I will get to in the morning once the sun is back out. I just need to, "bleed air of AHC & skyhook TEMS hydraulic system"
I guess the only reason I'm posting this is to say thank you to any, and everybody who helped me along the way getting this thing back into tip-top shape.
Glad you finally got them off - a cold one and a bigger hammer always seem to do the trick.
Photos below of the diaphragm inside the globe -
-- 1st is the Top or nitrogen side of the diaphragm - rubber only...
-- 2nd is a metal disk which appears to be attached to only the rubber layer on the fluid side of the diaphragm - it will not pull loose so I assume it is first installed into a hole in the rubber layer prior to the multi layers being laminated together.
-- Third photo shows how the metal disk would line up with the hole where fluid enters the globe.
I'm not an engineer (but I did stay at a Holiday Inn express the other day) - I would assume that since the globe is charged with nitrogen at hundreds of pounds of pressure when it is manufactured, that the rubber diaphragm would push through the hole in the globe and tear if it wasn't for the metal disk installed on the diaphragm. Note the grooves in the disk and in the bottom of the globe which would let air out when first pressurized (and Fluid in when installed on the vehicle.)
Photos below of the diaphragm inside the globe -
-- 1st is the Top or nitrogen side of the diaphragm - rubber only...
-- 2nd is a metal disk which appears to be attached to only the rubber layer on the fluid side of the diaphragm - it will not pull loose so I assume it is first installed into a hole in the rubber layer prior to the multi layers being laminated together.
-- Third photo shows how the metal disk would line up with the hole where fluid enters the globe.
I'm not an engineer (but I did stay at a Holiday Inn express the other day) - I would assume that since the globe is charged with nitrogen at hundreds of pounds of pressure when it is manufactured, that the rubber diaphragm would push through the hole in the globe and tear if it wasn't for the metal disk installed on the diaphragm. Note the grooves in the disk and in the bottom of the globe which would let air out when first pressurized (and Fluid in when installed on the vehicle.)
Will I run into problems trying to repressurize the system once I reinstall the globes? There’s most definitely air in the system since there’s no fluid and the lines are exposed. I didn’t remove my pump like you did though.
You'll need to 'bleed' the system after the globes are installed. The procedure (best one) is outlined in some information 'Paddo' has provided in the past. So search using him as the 'Author'.
I would expect with new globes, new fluid and a system bleeding....you will see marked improvement in ride quality, but you'll want to check/adjust the pressure balance front to rear for optimum results.
this is what I'm up against, if you get air in the system i'd hope your solution would be this, otherwise Techstream is VERY useful
http://forum.autodata.ru/file.php?fid=18921&key=825304568
This may be a dumb question, but I bleed AFTER I turn the truck on and the system has repressurized, correct? No fluid would come out before I turn it on, right? Trying to think through this before I put them on this afternoon (finally).
Have a look at post #17.
No 'dumb' questions. It is wise to be certain you understand the process before beginning.
^^^^^^^
Correct. You will need to turn the truck on long enough for the pump to re-pressurize the system and lift it to the 'normal' position. Then you'll want to shut it off. Gravity will do the rest...once you 'crack' the bleeder screws.
Review the instructions Paddo posted back in post #17
Good luck, be careful.
So I just got them on, and the ride is definitely improved. The globes were shot when I bought the truck, so I don’t have a “stock” ride to compare to, but it’s about 85% of the improvement I expected. I’m guessing adjusting my neutral pressures will get me the rest of the way there. I was never able to figure out Techstream so I plan on taking it to my trusty local indy Lexus mechanic to get them in spec next week.
PS - I stopped counting at 14 gradations between Low and High. The old globes had about 5 gradations.
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Fantastic. Thank you for the follow up. Yes, getting the neutral pressures right is an important next step. Hopefully, it won't involve replacing the rear coil springs for you, but just be a TB adjustment and cross leveling in the front.
I think I will go the same route you did...only start with new rear springs as well, I know mine are pretty tired.
I want to get Techstream....but will have to have someone walk me through the installation. After that...I am sure I can run it.
Glad to hear of your success. Let us know what you think of the globes after you get a few miles on them. They seem like a very good alternative to Toyota OEM's.
Flint.
