First determine if it needs to be rebuilt. Does it burn oil? Smoke? Low power? Do a compression test then a leak down test. If it is in good shape then it is very possible to drop the crank with the motor in the truck. Buy a used crank, $100 or so, get it polished/turned and buy new rod and mains. Swap cranks or hire it out. It is difficulte to do but it can be done in a day with general tools. It is not the "best" way to fix the problem but it will fix it for a long time.
[quote author=VehiculousFJ link=board=1;threadid=9320;start=msg81315#msg81315 date=1072668297]
So it is possible to replace the crank from underneath the FJ without messing with the rest of the engine?
It is very possible just not all that much fun. Have you taken off the balencer and figured out what is wrong with it?
yea, at the exterior tip of the crankshaft, the slot that holds the key has been worn down to the point where it can no longer support the key. I thought about attempting to weld the key directy to the the tip itself but have not had the time to tow the LC to an experienced welder.
Pull it and have it rebuilt by someone you trust. There maybe nothing else wrong, but the crank. Taking the crank out with the motor in the vehicle is a PITA! Especially if yer on yer back. Changin to a SBC would be more work than a stock R&R.
I listened to the FJ gurus and had the 2F rebuilt. I had to tow the rig 2 1/2 hours one-way just to find a shop that would touch it. Most of our local redneck-wrenches don't know what a 2F is. They'd put a 350 Chevy on their washing machine if they could.It's all they seem to know. :
My research showed alot of money for a 350 swap. Then their were over-heating issues on the trail. I found a salvage yard that would sell me a running 350 out of a wrecked Camaro for $1,500. That included all computers,wiring,brackets,etc. I may have been money ahead going that route.
The 2F rebuild started at $2,995 w/them pulling & reinstalling the motor. After a Centerforce clutch,balance & blueprint,radiator service,turned flywheel,water pump,oil pressure switch,all filters & fluids, throw-out & pilot bearing, spark plugs, and a carb pump diaphram the total was $4000 dollars.
The motor is a torquey little thing and all I personally need in the power department but I'm presently running 31x10.50 tires.
It ran like a sewing machine until the exhaust/manifold gasket started leaking. That's been a continueing problem I've yet to resolve. I've been through 2 gaskets in 400 miles I wish it didn't have a friggin' header, even though the stock manifolds have their issues, i.e leaking heat risers.
One fellow commented the 350 swap to be a money pit. I've found the whole FJ experience to be a time and money pit. :'(
it may be a money pit, but does it still run? a friend has sunk 15 grand into a "collectable" VW (not a beetle) and still can't enjoy it cause he's waiting on a diff to be imported from italy at 6 grand... second hand.
power has nothing to do with tyre size. re gear and your right (generally)
prices on V8 swaps vary hugely, since you sound like someone who would farm it out, expect it quickly to hit $2500 to $4000....
However, done right, they can be cheap and reliable. I've honestly never owned a Cruiser with a running inline 6 motor, mine have all been blown at purchase and replaced with V8's. My current 350 TBI was $200, complete and running. Upgrade the radiator, replace some minor stuff on the motor, tack on a SM465 with a plate adapter, adjust driveshafts, etc. and you can be in for $1500 or less, assuming 100% your own labor and fab skills.
one of the local 40's 'round here spun a main bearing, took it to my other buddy(cruiser central) and they fixed it in the truck. did'nt even drop the crank, just cleaned it up a little. these motors are tractor motors(do a search and this term will show up,ALOT) and it would seem you can get away with doing things to fix stuff that would NEVER work on any other motor(besides a deere).
and the way it sounds, for a person in your spot, replaceing or rebiulding the 2f you have, would be a much better than an sbc
other than the crank problem how does it run? smoke any? funny noises?
I am new to owning a fj40 and to the characteristics of the engine just yet. The fact that my f engine does not need rebuilding at this time has not made me do the research. That being said, I am not new to building engines as I owned a auto parts store for 28 years (retired now). When I hear some of the prices that some people are saying about getting their engine rebuilt, I am in shock. Maybe its my experience of knowing who to do the machine work or to buy the parts from that tells me that these prices are double or even triple as to what it will take to do the job correctly. As to the people that say that "the machine work is different on a f or 2f or that the aftermarket parts are low quality", again I say its knowledge of what brand name and who to buy from. My general knowledge of engines tells me not to jump into a V8 transplant until I have done the research on what can be achieved with the f or 2f engine because of the low end torque that a 6 cly can produce over a V8. The info that is needed to tell just how much "more" can be achieved with very simple and low cost mods of either machine work or bolt on parts are simple.......(stock non mod) ....head cc's, piston recess and block cc's with piston installed at TDC, head gasket cc's, cam info as openings, closings, lift and duration, carb CFMs........then its just a matter of how much torque at what RPM to balance out the other things as cam, carb, intake, headers and distributor. I would have to think that a well planned 6 would out pull a V8 any day at low RPMs and still be a more dependable and long lived engine than a V8.......just my .02s
I mentioned replacing the crank with the motor in place. Yes, it can be done. If you are on a very low budget but have time it might be the way to go. I dont think it would make sese to hire it out. I would pull the motor and replace it but once the motor is out you might as well rebuild it and the costs will keep going up. One other idea would be to weld the balencer to the end of the crank. it will never be 100% balenced but you could get a lot of miles out of it. Eventually the bearings will go and you could rebuild it then using a new crank buy you need a new crank either way.
Well, with my experience, budget and time, it looks like my best choice is going to either find someone in my area who actually knows what an FJ40 is, or to just reinstall a replacement engine. I live in the middle of SC amongst an army rednecks. I have never met a mechanic in my area that had any idea what an FJ40 Land cruiser is, so I hate to hire someone to attempt pulling the crank from the bottom, also would hate to depend on a couple of morons that have never seen a 2F to rebuild my engine. I want nothing but the absolute best for my FJ so it looks like replacing the engine and spending an outrageous amount of money is my best bet unless I can find someone that I can trust around here.
Crossbones, I was as shocked as you by the prices people pay for a 2F rebuild. But what I found when I looked into it was that the engine parts kits were exhorbitantly priced. It was looking like anything from $1700-$2000 just for short block parts! So I have a $200 350/sm465 in my FJ and a boat anchor 2F sitting in the corner.
VehiculousFJ, if I were in your shoes I would pull the engine, get it on an engine stand, and replace the crank. The 2F has a great reputation; if you have one that runs well you should keep it.
as a side note the F series of motors will not really be un-familar ground to any long time die hard chevy mech, the design is "almost" a clone of chevy's I6 design of the ~50's. on top of that there's nothing out of the ordinary about it from any other I6 gas motor. other than it only has 4 main bearings on the crank.
however i like you would feel much better about someone that has yrs of working on toy's to pull it apart, than billy bob and his brother jimmy work'n on it....