We put Denso remans in both the 100s 3 years ago...not a single issue. Same with the Denso reman starters.
Replacement alternator, Denso or other with lifetime warranty? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter flintknapper
- Start date
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Well as I said earlier in this post (from almost 2 years ago), "We will see".
Tonight was the night 'We saw'.
Mrs. Flintknapper calls me right about dark and tells me the Lexus started "sputtering" and lots of dash lights came on. NO problems with it earlier in the day. I make the 20 minute drive to town and find that the battery has 9.6 volts, jump the vehicle and look at the ScanGuage, alternator is putting out 8.6 volts. Battery is 2 months old.
Looks like I am going to get to use that 'Lifetime Warranty' after all...(not that I want to). Not a fun job. $157.00 to have the vehicle towed to my house outside of town. Time for me to get AAA I think. Second time this year I have had to be towed (previous tow ended up being a stuck thermostat).
So..the debate rages. Do you take your chance on a DENSO reman alternator with a 1 year warranty or go back with the best aftermarket reman you can find (longer warranty).
Dang! I was going to get some of my rifles out tomorrow and do a little shooting. I'll be wrenching instead.
Thanks for updating us on the Denso alternator failure, it really helps with the long term landscape for replacement parts. I recently did this same job on our 1999 LX470 at about 170k miles. (I'm the original owner). Considering the work involved to replace it, I did a lot of research on the different brands and a theme started with reviews of the Denso remanufactured units...they fail prematurely. After searching further, I found that the long term reviews of the Bosch remanufactured units appear to show the best longevity and that is what I installed. It's only been six months but so far no issues.
And...I also suggest you guys go here to buy your parts: www.rockauto.com, you'll save a LOT of money over the local auto parts store. The only downside is it takes several days to get the part, so if it's urgent, then off to the store you go. (and no, I have no affiliation with Rock Auto other than I like to keep my parts costs low.)
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
I have a question about voltages. I don't have any warning lights or weird electrical issues but since getting my Scan Guage, it's made me paranoid, haha. Idle RPM, easy. Engine temp, easy. ATF temp, you guys in another thread told me my temps were fine. Now the voltage question. When I turn on my 100, it says 14.0 to 14.2. When it's warmed up, when I drive it's around 13.4-13.5. When the engine is warm, when i'm idle, it sometimes drops to 12.7-13.0. Once I start driving again, it jumps back to 13.4-13.5. Some older threads here and on the 80's forums say it's normal. Some threads say it's not normal and to change the brushes (the bearings are making no noise). What do you guys think?
- Thread starter
- #44
Normal, you are good to go. When you first start your engine you partially deplete the stored charge of your battery, so the alternator charges at its highest rate (for the current rpm). As the battery begins to charge the alternator drops back. Engine rpm has an effect on the output as well.
Not to worry, what you are seeing is normal.
trdcorolla
SILVER Star
Thanks! One last question, at what idle or driving voltage is not normal? Am I overthinking it and unless the alternator makes noise or i'm getting a warning light, to just keep driving? If there is a voltage that should flag me that a future problem, I would like to know so I can rebuild the alternator before it goes bad.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Well as I said earlier in this post (from almost 2 years ago), "We will see".
Tonight was the night 'We saw'.
Mrs. Flintknapper calls me right about dark and tells me the Lexus started "sputtering" and lots of dash lights came on. NO problems with it earlier in the day. I make the 20 minute drive to town and find that the battery has 9.6 volts, jump the vehicle and look at the ScanGuage, alternator is putting out 8.6 volts. Battery is 2 months old.
Looks like I am going to get to use that 'Lifetime Warranty' after all...(not that I want to). Not a fun job. $157.00 to have the vehicle towed to my house outside of town. Time for me to get AAA I think. Second time this year I have had to be towed (previous tow ended up being a stuck thermostat).
So..the debate rages. Do you take your chance on a DENSO reman alternator with a 1 year warranty or go back with the best aftermarket reman you can find (longer warranty).
Dang! I was going to get some of my rifles out tomorrow and do a little shooting. I'll be wrenching instead.
Trying to remember how this went down - did you rebuild the original unit you took out?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I could not get mine out from the bottom. Top was not too bad, I almost wish I had just started out taking it out that way!
- Thread starter
- #48
It was my 'plan' to keep the old alternator and rebuild it for a spare. However, once I got it out...it was plain that it had gotten very hot. Too many internal parts damaged or in poor condition to make it worth my while. So I ended up turning it in as a 'core'.
- Thread starter
- #49
Well the Jury is still out. Last time I took it out the bottom. Not too difficult...but a bad position to see the wiring harness and the one cable. I just finished removing this one from the top. Won't have the replacement until tomorrow.
So far....I can't say one method is easier than the other (the actual removal). As far as reaching the bolts, the wiring harness and the cable, I have to give the nod to working it from up top. But it requires removing the air box, coolant reservoir, completely moving the P/S pump, the top part of the radiator hose and freed up the power steering reservoir. You get much better access to the alternator that way. But actually fishing it out...did not seem any easier than from the bottom. You still hit the fan shroud, the radiator hose and hose stand off..as well as the P/S pump. Eventually, you'll wiggle it past all of that.
One thing that might sway a person one way or the other is the following:
IF you are tall, have Long SKINNY arms and a good back, attack the job from the top. If you are more comfortable laying on your back and have shorter arms (or large arms) I'd recommend going at it from the bottom. Both methods require a modicum of patience.
I have long arms but my forearms quickly get bound up against various components. So if I have to reach into the engine compartment very far or at odd angles...it just doesn't work for me.
But the good news is....I don't live in the rust belt and all bolts/nuts come off easily and rarely even need cleaning up. I can't imagine having to fight rusted/broken bolts in the tight quarters the alternator lives in.
Anyway, when I get new alternator installed (from the top) I will render my final opinion. So far...it looks like a draw.
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Let me say this, PS pump does not need to come off, nor does the top radiator hose.
I started out underneath and just removed the PS pump bolts and removed the alternator bolt and nut. Once I finally got the connector out (darn!) I could not get her out from underneath, so then I tried out through the side - nope.
So I went up above, pulled the air box, and I think I had to move the coolant reservoir. I will see if I took any pictures.
I started out underneath and just removed the PS pump bolts and removed the alternator bolt and nut. Once I finally got the connector out (darn!) I could not get her out from underneath, so then I tried out through the side - nope.
So I went up above, pulled the air box, and I think I had to move the coolant reservoir. I will see if I took any pictures.
- Thread starter
- #51
Yes, I removed the coolant reservoir as well (2 bolts, easy). But I would not have been able to get to the alternator or wiggle it out if I hadn't removed the P/S pump (from above anyway). Last time I just slid the P/S forward a bit but I took the alternator out from below that time. You and I have the same vehicle (year model) so they should be similarly equipped. The difference might be my inability to get to and finesse things around.
guerasfj60
SILVER Star
OEM reman is still best option?
- Thread starter
- #53
Open to debate IMO.
You definitely want the alternator itself (core) to be Denso or Bosch (not cheap aftermarket copies).
After that, its a matter of how well it is rebuilt (regardless who does it). 'Denso' contracts out their rebuilds and I am sure there are certain minimum specifications to be met. Some re-manufacturers have more stringent policies than others and this will usually be reflected in the price and warranty.
I made the choice I did after a reasonable amount of research and felt it was the correct thing for me. A single incidence of failure (within 2 years) doesn't point to substandard parts or manufacture. BUT if the replacement does the same thing....you may be sure I will be back here to report it and concede my mistake.
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- Thread starter
- #54
OK, so..... 'round 2'.
Got the replacement Alternator installed.
The exchange could not have been easier (wasn't expecting that). They didn't test the old one, didn't ask any questions, were apologetic about the early failure. I handed them my old one, they ran the receipt through their system, gave me the new one (with receipt) and I was on my way in less than 5 minutes.
So...now that I have removed and installed an alternator both ways (from the top, from the bottom) my opinion is that it is equally difficult either way, just for different reasons. It's not a real 'ball-buster' of a job, but not something you'd ask to do for your Birthday...you know.
Hopefully this one lasts longer than the first one.
Got the replacement Alternator installed.
The exchange could not have been easier (wasn't expecting that). They didn't test the old one, didn't ask any questions, were apologetic about the early failure. I handed them my old one, they ran the receipt through their system, gave me the new one (with receipt) and I was on my way in less than 5 minutes.
So...now that I have removed and installed an alternator both ways (from the top, from the bottom) my opinion is that it is equally difficult either way, just for different reasons. It's not a real 'ball-buster' of a job, but not something you'd ask to do for your Birthday...you know.
Hopefully this one lasts longer than the first one.
OK, so..... 'round 2'.
Got the replacement Alternator installed.
The exchange could not have been easier (wasn't expecting that). They didn't test the old one, didn't ask any questions, were apologetic about the early failure. I handed them my old one, they ran the receipt through their system, gave me the new one (with receipt) and I was on my way in less than 5 minutes.
So...now that I have removed and installed an alternator both ways (from the top, from the bottom) my opinion is that it is equally difficult either way, just for different reasons. It's not a real 'ball-buster' of a job, but not something you'd ask to do for your Birthday...you know.
Hopefully this one lasts longer than the first one.
View attachment 1855207
Whats the price on the OR Alt?
- Thread starter
- #56
$143.00 (including tax, here). $65.00 core charge if you don't turn in a re-buildable core.
"Alternators and components are thoroughly inspected and tested to meet or exceed O.E.M. specifications ensuring Quality. Alternator bearings, brushes and brush springs are replaced with New. Rotors are electronically tested for amperage in insulation quality. Rotor slip rings are machined and checked for concentricity or replaced with New. Stators are tested for insulation quality, phase balance and amp output or replaced with New. All units are performance tested to measure output curve, turn on speed and other critical specifications with test reports enclosed with the product.
Ultima premium remanufactured starters and alternators provide superior quality, industry-leading coverage and extreme durability. Remanufactured by ISO/TS 16949 certified factories to meet or exceed OE quality standards, Ultima starters and alternators utilize the newest OE technology improvements to provide unmatched performance. Ultima units are designed to withstand the extreme electrical rigors demanded from today's vehicles. Every unit is 100% performance tested from component through final assembly to ensure dependable service and reliable performance."
- High performance components deliver reliable cranking and charging power
- Assembled with premium bushings, bearings, seals and lubricants
- Every component inspected to strict quality standards
- All sub-assemblies 100% tested
- Remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM specifications
- Every unit is 100% performance tested
- Complete domestic and import coverage
- Industry-leading warranty"
Hey all...
I have to replace my fan bracket and I am considering replacing an alternator that shows no signs of weakness... since I am there and its not a fun thing to have die randomly.
Given that there doesnt seem to be a perfect option between the reman's and we see failures on both sides (toyota and the auto part stores) would you recommend preventatively replacing this?
Also... @flintknapper
I am not seeing anything on O'Reilly's website that states Ultima replaces the bearings, brushes and springs. Was that from O'reillys website or a different source?
I have to replace my fan bracket and I am considering replacing an alternator that shows no signs of weakness... since I am there and its not a fun thing to have die randomly.
Given that there doesnt seem to be a perfect option between the reman's and we see failures on both sides (toyota and the auto part stores) would you recommend preventatively replacing this?
Also... @flintknapper
I am not seeing anything on O'Reilly's website that states Ultima replaces the bearings, brushes and springs. Was that from O'reillys website or a different source?
Yes! I would replace the alternator while you are in there. It sits under the Power Steering pump and is not too easy to remove without making room. Having the fan bracket (shroud?) out would make it easier to do. I replaced mine preventatively when I replaced the PS pump and I'm glad I did. Here is what I bought (in this case for your '98): https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5777277&cc=1368547&jsn=342
All new bearings and more on the Bosch reman unit, $97 with a 2 year warranty.
- Thread starter
- #60
Yes, that was a direct quote from their 'ad' (two years ago). I see that since then...it has been re-written and that the original advertisement (source) is now not a page you can access.
The current ad states:
"Brand Information:
Alternators and components are thoroughly inspected and tested to meet or exceed O.E.M. specifications ensuring Quality. Rotors are electronically tested for amperage in insulation quality. All units are performance tested to measure output curve, turn on speed and other critical specifications with test reports enclosed with the product.
Ultima premium remanufactured starters and alternators provide superior quality, industry-leading coverage and extreme durability. Remanufactured by ISO/TS 16949 certified factories to meet or exceed OE quality standards, Ultima starters and alternators utilize the newest OE technology improvements to provide unmatched performance. Ultima units are designed to withstand the extreme electrical rigors demanded from today's vehicles. Every unit is 100% performance tested from component through final assembly to ensure dependable service and reliable performance.
- High performance components deliver reliable cranking and charging power
- Assembled with premium bushings, bearings, seals and lubricants
- Every component inspected to strict quality standards
- All sub-assemblies 100% tested
- Remanufactured to meet or exceed OEM specifications
- Every unit is 100% performance tested
- Complete domestic and import coverage
- Industry-leading warranty"
^^^^^ No longer does it explicitly state that new bearings, brushes and springs are installed. It simply suggests that the units are 'assembled' with premium bearings. I don't know if that means IF they need bearings or IF every unit starts with new bearings. It would be good practice to put new bearings in every unit...since that is one of two reasons alternators usually fail.
