looks different from the LX450 switch, no key retainer solenoid on the Land Cruiser?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1514519&postcount=12
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1514519&postcount=12
Replaced Starter Contacts. Still Intermittant Starting!!! Sleuth needed. (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter roncruiser
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #182
You called it. Props!
- Thread starter
- #184
Possibly. Though, if its badly pitted as mine was your outta luck. Better to go in there and replace the whole switch.
Later, I'll post pics of the cracked open old ignition switch assembly to show any damage and wear.[/QUOTE]
Any chance of those pics?
If you dont mind me asking how much $ for the new switch.
Oh ya, how long will it take to R&R.
Thanks,
ken
Any chance of those pics?
If you dont mind me asking how much $ for the new switch.
Oh ya, how long will it take to R&R.
Thanks,
ken
- Thread starter
- #186
Been exceptionally busy at work. I believe the switch was seventy-something. Don't remember exactly.
It took me about an hour and a half for the whole job. Including a little break.
I'll post some pics up as soon.
It took me about an hour and a half for the whole job. Including a little break.
I'll post some pics up as soon.
- Thread starter
- #187
Below are pics of the contact plate. As you can see, there are many wear areas.
You can also see the big pit at 12o'clock.
The vehicle has been running like a champ thus far.
You can also see the big pit at 12o'clock.
The vehicle has been running like a champ thus far.
I just pulled mine, and opened it up.
I decided to try to clean the contacts.
My plates were not that bad they had some minor pitting & wear funk.
I hit every thing with scotch brite and cleaned.
Next applied a light coat of lubraplate and reinstalled.
IM not to sure if this will last ,but I thought Iwould give it a go.
Next week I will be ordering a new switch ( I think Lexus only part)
I will update when I know more.
ken
I decided to try to clean the contacts.
My plates were not that bad they had some minor pitting & wear funk.
I hit every thing with scotch brite and cleaned.
Next applied a light coat of lubraplate and reinstalled.
IM not to sure if this will last ,but I thought Iwould give it a go.
Next week I will be ordering a new switch ( I think Lexus only part)
I will update when I know more.
ken
- Thread starter
- #189
Update: The intermittent starting is gone. Not one since replacing the ignition switch back on the 20th. Long live the new ignition switch!
so is there any PM that can be done to the ignition switch to help its life expectancy? clean and lube? dielectric grease?
These things are 10 years old and cost $68.06 shipped. How much effort you going to put into one?
Landtank seems to have it,under 70 bills and the job takes 1.5 hrs.
I did the clean and lube and is working but I should have spent that time installing new.
If the switch was easy to ge to like a C-210 or 180 (ac talk) I'd say clean that sucker.
ken
- Thread starter
- #194
I'd suggest replacing the whole darn thing. There's not much to clean in there anyhow. Its a relatively sealed unit. It'd be a waste of precious time removing the switch for maintenance only to crack it open and find out you'd be better off replacing it. Once is enough.
I have been following this thread and have found no solution, I have replaced;
Starter
Battery cables (both positive and negative)
Fusible link has been cleaned out
Ran a second ground to the block
The only thing left is the ignition switch but I have remote start and it completely bypasses the switch so it should not be an issue. I have a fairly new battery and it reads 12.2V
When I try to start it the lead wire to the starter only reads about 9 to 10 volts.
Once the truck is started it fires up like a champ but it causes an issue when it has sat for a while. My only thought would be my alternator is providing enough juice back to the battery.
Give me some thoughts,
Starter
Battery cables (both positive and negative)
Fusible link has been cleaned out
Ran a second ground to the block
The only thing left is the ignition switch but I have remote start and it completely bypasses the switch so it should not be an issue. I have a fairly new battery and it reads 12.2V
When I try to start it the lead wire to the starter only reads about 9 to 10 volts.
Once the truck is started it fires up like a champ but it causes an issue when it has sat for a while. My only thought would be my alternator is providing enough juice back to the battery.
Give me some thoughts,
my thought is that you have not replaced the ignition. Not trying to be a smart A$$, just saying, for $50 more, replace it.
I have never worked GA but I have seen the panels and see your point.
- Thread starter
- #198
What is GA?
- Thread starter
- #199
I have been following this thread and have found no solution, I have replaced;
Starter
Battery cables (both positive and negative)
Fusible link has been cleaned out
Ran a second ground to the block
The only thing left is the ignition switch but I have remote start and it completely bypasses the switch so it should not be an issue. I have a fairly new battery and it reads 12.2V
When I try to start it the lead wire to the starter only reads about 9 to 10 volts.
Once the truck is started it fires up like a champ but it causes an issue when it has sat for a while. My only thought would be my alternator is providing enough juice back to the battery.
Give me some thoughts,
What exactly is the issue? A non-start? Weak cranking? From what you mention, it seems like you should start with the alternator, but you also mention you're alternator is providing enough juice. Can you please restate?
Sorry for being vague;
I am having the same problems you were having, intermittent starts, and when it does not start I can hear it click once as if the solenoid is stuck but it’s only because it does not have enough juice to kick it over. I don’t the switch is bad simply because I have a remote starter alarm (if your thinking it’s the alarm it’s not because it happen even before I installed it) that bypass the ignition switch and it does the same thing. Somewhere between where the ignition switch plugs in and the starter I lose about a volt or two. My assumption on the alternator is simply because the gauge on the dash fluctuates when I have anything running, which it should not do; it almost seems as if the brushes are worn down. At times the gauge on the dash reads have way between 0 and 18V so I am assuming its drawing from the battery as well and not bringing back to a full charge causing me to not have enough juice to crank back on.
I am having the same problems you were having, intermittent starts, and when it does not start I can hear it click once as if the solenoid is stuck but it’s only because it does not have enough juice to kick it over. I don’t the switch is bad simply because I have a remote starter alarm (if your thinking it’s the alarm it’s not because it happen even before I installed it) that bypass the ignition switch and it does the same thing. Somewhere between where the ignition switch plugs in and the starter I lose about a volt or two. My assumption on the alternator is simply because the gauge on the dash fluctuates when I have anything running, which it should not do; it almost seems as if the brushes are worn down. At times the gauge on the dash reads have way between 0 and 18V so I am assuming its drawing from the battery as well and not bringing back to a full charge causing me to not have enough juice to crank back on.
