Replaced Starter Contacts. Still Intermittant Starting!!! Sleuth needed. (1 Viewer)

[Beto]

Why would I replace it if it has nothing to do with it? If the door still opens why would I replace the hinges?
The item actually goes for about 70 bucks, just trying to save.
thanks

 

[concretejungle]

beto, i said that because i also had the same semptoms as you. Turn the key, one click at the starter, but will not turn over, occasional pause then start, then sometimes nothing. Replaced contacts, plunger, checked grounds, checked battery, did everything except ignition.

 

[450 DUDE]

What is GA?

Sorry for bringing the crazy aircraft lingo .

GA = general aviation = smaller privet aircraft.


BTW cleaned contacts still working, with pause here and there



ken

 

[zcruiser]

The only thing left is the ignition switch but I have remote start and it completely bypasses the switch so it should not be an issue. I have a fairly new battery and it reads 12.2V When I try to start it the lead wire to the starter only reads about 9 to 10 volts.

Seems pretty low for a battery voltage to the starter. Where are you reading 9-10V? At the battery or at the starter? If there is a significant drop from the battery to the starter, I'd say you need a new starter cable. (Didn't see that on the list of cables you've replaced).

 

[Beto]

beto, i said that because i also had the same semptoms as you. Turn the key, one click at the starter, but will not turn over, occasional pause then start, then sometimes nothing. Replaced contacts, plunger, checked grounds, checked battery, did everything except ignition.

Diddn't mean to sound like a d$$k, just trying to narrow things down. Thanks for the input.

 

[Beto]

Seems pretty low for a battery voltage to the starter. Where are you reading 9-10V? At the battery or at the starter? If there is a significant drop from the battery to the starter, I'd say you need a new starter cable. (Didn't see that on the list of cables you've replaced).

I had not mention it but I bypassed the lead wire to the starter and it did the same thing, I went to autozone and had the alternator tested and all was good but turns out I just had a low battery. Don't understand why it was low, but I had an optima in my old school truck and put it in the Cruizer, came back to life........ I have been driving and all is good. I will keep you guys posted on what happens. thanks again!
oh the 9-10v was reading at the lead wire at the starter.

 

[tusk74]

Anyone mention the Neutral Start Switch that bolts to the USDS of the transmission? Mine would start in neutral but not in park. It is easy to bypass but you'll lose cruise control. Turn the key and nothing happens, no click. Intermittent problem that eventually becomes permanent. Maybe it has already been mentioned? Didn't feel like reading 7 pages of posts.

 

[zcruiser]

Beto, glad you're back to a reliable starter. Not a good feeling and no one wants to drive the truck if they're going to get stranded... (hey!)

Didn't feel like reading 7 pages of posts.

Yeah, pretty hard to believe this is on the 7th page.

 

[Beto]

Beto, glad you're back to a reliable starter. Not a good feeling and no one wants to drive the truck if they're going to get stranded... (hey!)



Yeah, pretty hard to believe this is on the 7th page.

Thanks

 

[roncruiser]

Anyone mention the Neutral Start Switch that bolts to the USDS of the transmission? Mine would start in neutral but not in park. It is easy to bypass but you'll lose cruise control. Turn the key and nothing happens, no click. Intermittent problem that eventually becomes permanent. Maybe it has already been mentioned? Didn't feel like reading 7 pages of posts.

Yeah, the possibility of the neutral start switch was mentioned sometime back on this thread

 

[zcruiser]

Yeah, the possibility of the neutral start switch was mentioned sometime back on this thread

Yup.... https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1668839&postcount=32

Cool! On to page 8!!!

 

[Beowulf]

Ron's starting problems continue.....

See new thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=1868188#post1868188

-B-

 

[prossett]

I have similar symptoms of holding the key turned until 3-5 seconds later the engine fires.

My questions is about the ignition switch shown by roncruiser - I can't quite tell, but is it the part that connects to the back of the tumbler lock?

If so, I recently had the dealership replace the keys and locks all around, including the ignition. Would the ignition switch also get changed at that stage or would they have left the old one on?

 

[roncruiser]

I have similar symptoms of holding the key turned until 3-5 seconds later the engine fires.

My questions is about the ignition switch shown by roncruiser - I can't quite tell, but is it the part that connects to the back of the tumbler lock?

If so, I recently had the dealership replace the keys and locks all around, including the ignition. Would the ignition switch also get changed at that stage or would they have left the old one on?

Yeah, its the white and black cylindrical device attached to the back of the tumbler. My guess is the switch should stay even if they re-keyed all the locks. HTH.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Necrobump because I am looking at this same repair real soon now.

Also because i wanted to add some thoughts:

Since this issue is about a high resistance (corroded, pitted, dirty) switch contact limiting the current available to the solenoid, it makes sense that most things that would increase the voltage in the system, or decrease the demand for current, would improve the behavior.

So a brand new battery would have higher voltage, and would help. A jump start would mean more voltage, and would help. Hooking up a charger appears to help. New plunger and new lubricants / a good cleaning could make it easier for the solenoid to do it's thing. etc.

A real cheapskate could maybe fix it for several years by cleaning the pitted contact and tinning it with a dab of leaded solder.

I don't have a garage. I decided that i would much rather sit in my truck and replace the ignition switch than slide under it and mess with the starter - which i'm not even sure is an OE starter.

Naturally, ever since i ordered a new switch - for more than $70 for an aftermarket part (the w/o airbag switch costs more), i haven't had any trouble.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

Ok, it was not the ignition switch.

Anybody want a deal on a non-airbag switch if advance won't let me return it? I had the presence of mind to plug it into the harness and work it with a screwdriver before going whole hog. No dice.

Sent from my SCH-I545

 

[concretejungle]

I assumed that with the switch there was wiring associated with it that might not be carrying the proper current?

 

[yjeff]

Real time help needed, sorry to bring up old thread, and I've read the whole thing, but I have slightly different situation.

I'm currently in southern Chile with a 1995 Landcruiser, it has a 1995 Dodge 47RH transmission and 1993 Cummins 4BT diesel. It has a Mean Green Starter installed 12k ago. Batteries and connections are good.

Increasingly, I'm getting no starts, with ONE click of what sounds like the solenoid firing while turning the key and no cranking. I use to be able to put it in N and it would start right away, then would have to adjust the shifter to almost D, but still in N, and it would start. After about 20 tries I can usually get it to start.

After reading this thread, I think I have a bad NSS, ignition switch, starter contacts, or combination of those.

Here's the kicker, I can't easily get any of these parts down here. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

@LandCruiserPhil

 

[roncruiser]

This is classic "old wiring" going bad. More than likely connectors/junctions going bad. The wire that goes directly from the ignition switch to the starter meanders through and under the dash and goes through a few junctions. To fix your no starts, bypass the stock wiring and direct connect from the ignition switch to the starter. A direct connect will certainly work or a solenoid if you want to continue to use the stock wiring.

I'd do this first... should be easy. Just buy some taps and tap in close to the ignition switch and tap the other end of wire onto the black wire close to the starter. Give this a try to get you going. Then rig up a more permanent solution later.

Good Luck. Send updates!

 

[concretejungle]

Yes, what Ron says above should save your bacon. I hate to admit this, but when i started having starter problems, after replacing contacts and plunger twice, then bought a new starter and a month or two later still was having issues, i finally broke down and wired in a jumper wire. I ran that wire tucked away under the hood for almost a year. I even used it to drive across the US, wheel the Rubicon trail and then drive back from CA to NC and it started the truck every time.

It was kind of embarrassing to have to pop your hood, reach under there and then magically your truck starts.... that created some strange looks in store parking lots and from Cruiserdrew at the Rubicon.