- Thread starter
- #81
ST,
Interesting idea. Help me understand. I suppose you need the key inserted and turned to ACC while hitting the momentary switch to start the vehicle, correct?
Ron
Replaced Starter Contacts. Still Intermittant Starting!!! Sleuth needed. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter roncruiser
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ST,
Interesting idea. Help me understand. I suppose you need the key inserted and turned to ACC while hitting the momentary switch to start the vehicle, correct?
Ron
I'm still trying to understand how the ignition switch is bad when the solenoid is firing.
Unless there is another component that turns on at the same time and you are hearing that.
If it is the switch I wouldn't go rewiring the truck to compensate for it, I'd just replace it. This is because it eventually won't work for that relay and then what?
Unless there is another component that turns on at the same time and you are hearing that.
If it is the switch I wouldn't go rewiring the truck to compensate for it, I'd just replace it. This is because it eventually won't work for that relay and then what?
Yes, you just have a dead start circuit, the *on* circuit and key lock still works. You just remove the starting load from the switch. The first time I rigged this was on a LT1 install into a quattro, the kennedy adapter used a high torque toyota starter. We ate ignition switches regularly. Put aux push button start switch in place, it's now 5 years without a problem.
landtank said:
I see it all the time, usually the high load the the twist spring cause the plastic to crack, which can arc, no start, intermittent start, not full load at the starter solenoid.
I'd just put 12 volts to the solenoid first, it's an easy ck. RC when you get the intermittent do you have a click every time?
ST
I'll assume here you are talking supply and not load. If the switch is supplying the needed current for the solenoid to fire (click) then the starter motor should turn.
But as I said, maybe there is another component clicking at the same time confusing the situation.
- Thread starter
- #85
Yes, I get a click everytime I turn the key during the intermittant "no start". Why would there be a click if the ignition switch is bad? What are you thinking?
My natural inclination is to assume that there would be no click if the ignition switch was bad. Meaning no closing of the circuit when the key is turned.
zcruiser
Needs monitoring
x2. By putting 12V directly to the solenoid contact, you can diagnose the key switch as being the source of the problem. For me, I would run a new (heavy) wire to the solenoid contact, and drag it up near battery so you can make the contact outside the truck. Not sure I would want to be in/under the truck when I touch the +12V to the solenoid. If you're getting a clicking noise, the solenoid is at least attempting to do its job.
Safety first, man!
Since this is an intermittent problem, how would you know when to attach this aux 12v line to confirm a bad ignition switch?
- Thread starter
- #88
You'd actually touch the wire to the battery by hand after wiring from the solenoid? I probably wire up a switch instead.
roncruiser, I personally would change out the high amp line from the battery to the starter next. Your truck is 13 years old and in my opinion it's the next likely suspect.
- Thread starter
- #90
Makes perfect sense to me. Thanks. I hope the ignition switch comes in sooner than later.
Man this really sucks
- Thread starter
- #91
I don't think I'd rewire the truck until I know exactly what's wrong and fixed the problem. I just thought it was an interesting way to start the vehicle, or in the case of Maverick, take the load off the ignition switch.
all you are doing with a solenoid is generating a magnetic field, not a lot of load in doing that.
zcruiser
Needs monitoring
Heck yeah! With my tongue for extra kick!
I know that i do. I hear the one click to indicate there is power to the solenoid. Then nothing.
- Thread starter
- #95
HaHa... before you do that, drench yourself and stand in a bucket of water and grab ground with your other hand ;p
My starter won't engage or if I'm lucky, just hesitates a few seconds when it gets really cold out. It's 0 degrees today and, as usual, it wouldn't start. I've got a new battery and I know the starter is getting juice.
To test my hot/cold theory I poured two cups of warm water on the starter then two hot cups. Turned the key and shazzam! It fired up and I was on my way. Now I'm wondering what it is in the starter that is so temperature sensitive?
To test my hot/cold theory I poured two cups of warm water on the starter then two hot cups. Turned the key and shazzam! It fired up and I was on my way. Now I'm wondering what it is in the starter that is so temperature sensitive?
Roncruiser,
While you are checking/replacing the HD cables to the battery, also check the ground cable to the block and the smaller one to the body.
-B-
- Thread starter
- #99
I'm in a quandary since the problem is intermittant. Can't really test it unless its happening, and it happens randomly. Not every turn of the key is a no-start.
I just jumped on here to make this point as well. The ground cable is pretty common and you should be able to get a generic one at any parts store for around 20.00. Just pull it from the truck and bring it down for proper length.
I worked on another 80 for voltage problems and replacing both the positive and negative cables cleared things up. That was a 92 and a few years ago. We started with the ground which solved 80% of it and then with the positive cable everything was back to normal.
I'm planning on doing this on my truck as a PM. Those cables don't last forever and bulid up resistance with age.
