Isn't there a relay in the system somewhere?
-Spike
-Spike
Replaced Starter Contacts. Still Intermittant Starting!!! Sleuth needed. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter roncruiser
- Start date
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Solenoid = Relay.
-B-
-B-
- Thread starter
- #23
Well, I'm going after the starter again to replace the solenoid assembly.
- Thread starter
- #25
When you guys say 'click', do you mean 'clickclickclick'? Mine clicks only once each time I turn the key, but sometimes takes up to 10 turns of the ignition before it will actually start up.
Contacts, plunger, or solenoid?
TY
For you, I'd say contact and plunger. I turn the key and no click at all. Which leads to a bad solenoid from what I've gather so far.
I have not seen or heard of another relay in the starting circuit. Just the solenoid. That doesn't mean there isn't one but the starter troubleshooting section in the FSM does not mention it.
-B-
TY,
Contacts and plunger. Allocate 3hrs for your first time doing a starter R&R. There are several write ups on how to do this and with your lift you can get to it pretty easy. Disconnect batt, 2 wires on starter (1 connector & 1 nut), 2 bolts on the starter, and snake it out. 30 min to replace the contacts & plunger (read the FSM) and the put it back in.
-B-
Contacts and plunger. Allocate 3hrs for your first time doing a starter R&R. There are several write ups on how to do this and with your lift you can get to it pretty easy. Disconnect batt, 2 wires on starter (1 connector & 1 nut), 2 bolts on the starter, and snake it out. 30 min to replace the contacts & plunger (read the FSM) and the put it back in.
-B-
Just started happening to me: 2 turns of the key and 2 faux starts, then wait. Turn again and roars to life per usual. Parked for 4 hrs, turn key and normal. Thanks B.
zcruiser
Needs monitoring
As stated before, the solenoid is the relay.... There is a very small wire which activates the solenoid, which activates the plunger, which makes the high-current contact between the copper contact points which carry the current directly from the battery to the starter motor.
Common problems that I have heard described...
1. Worn high-current contacts and/or plunger inside starter
2. Poor alignment of new contacts when replaced (lack of coplanarity, reducing the effectiveness of the plunger in carrying the current from one contact to the other)
3. Bad signal from the key switch to the starter solenoid, either due to the key switch, wire from switch to starter, or corroded connector at starter.
4. Corroded contact of the starter cable at the battery
5. Frayed high-current cable from the battery to the starter, which does not carry sufficient current to turn over the starter
6. Corroded contact of the starter cable at the starter
7. Bad solenoid, which does not activate the plunger
8. Bad ground connection at battery or engine block. {Beowulf}
9. Neutral safety switch between key switch and solenoid {jpw2}
Common problems that I have heard described...
1. Worn high-current contacts and/or plunger inside starter
2. Poor alignment of new contacts when replaced (lack of coplanarity, reducing the effectiveness of the plunger in carrying the current from one contact to the other)
3. Bad signal from the key switch to the starter solenoid, either due to the key switch, wire from switch to starter, or corroded connector at starter.
4. Corroded contact of the starter cable at the battery
5. Frayed high-current cable from the battery to the starter, which does not carry sufficient current to turn over the starter
6. Corroded contact of the starter cable at the starter
7. Bad solenoid, which does not activate the plunger
8. Bad ground connection at battery or engine block. {Beowulf}
9. Neutral safety switch between key switch and solenoid {jpw2}
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8. Bad ground connection at battery or engine block.
-B-
-B-
Maybe I missed this but I don't recall seeing the Neutral safety switch mentioned. Worn contacts in this switch are less common than the others mentioned but I've seen a few. The N/S switch between the key switch and the solenoid electrically, and on the side of the trans physically. Do you have/use a voltmeter? Can you take some readings while the problem is happening?
Jason
Jason
- Thread starter
- #33
Where exactly is the neutral safety switch for a '94? Can anyone accurately describe where that switch is? Since I'm at it, I might as well check that switch out as well. For me it seems that is the next likely culprit assuming its not the solenoid.
I had the exact same problem when turning the key and nothing...then waiting and turning the key and it would start or holding the key on and eventually it would start.
I replaced the starter with a new one and nothing was different.
My auto electrician tracked it down to worn contacts in the ignition. I replaced the ignition switch and all was back to normal.
This was when the 80 had the 3FE not the V8.
I replaced the starter with a new one and nothing was different.
My auto electrician tracked it down to worn contacts in the ignition. I replaced the ignition switch and all was back to normal.
This was when the 80 had the 3FE not the V8.
- Thread starter
- #35
Hmmm... another culprit to look for... the ignition switch! Is that relatively easy to replace?
Dont know. the auto elec did it. He first cleaned the contacts and got it all working but said that it may happen again unless the switch is replaced. So it was replaced. He had the plastic shround under the steering wheel off and the back of the ignition barrel was off, thats about all he did so it looked pretty easy, I only had a quick look in my lunch break so cant comment much more on it, I just know that it defiinately was the problem and your symptoms are identical to what mine was doing.
Yeah, those are the same symptoms my 94 Nissan pickup was showing. I did the starter first and wasted time as it ended up being the ignition switch. Easy fix on the Nissan as the switch is in the steering column. Not sure on the FZJ80, though.
The Neutral/Safety sw is on the drivers frt of the trans right above the corner of the pan. The ignition sw is easy to change. You will be $ and time ahead if you use a volt meter and factory wire diagram to track the problem down even if you need to teach yourself to do it. If you start replceing parts with out testing you will often replace many good parts. Basically ea circuit has 2 legs pos. starts at the battery pos. post and ends at the load ( starter, sol etc). Neg. starts at the load and ends at the neg. post of the battery. With one lead of your meter connected to the neg post of the battery and the other at the pos termial of the starter you should have at least 10 volts with the engine cranking and close to battery voltage if its not cranking. Same thing for the pos. terminal of the sol. The starter case to the neg. battery post is the connection for both neg. legs and your reading should be 0.3 volts or less cranking and 0 volts w/no crank. Any difference and you need to work your way up the circuit checking ea. component/connection till you identify the one that is dropping the voltage. It can be as simple as a recently cleaned battery termial so make sure your meter is connected to the posts when testing not the terminal. Also the problem HAS to be HAPPENING during the tests to make them accurate.
HTH
HTH
I had a 91 hardbody that had the starter relay go bad. Plugged a new $20 relay from the dealer in and it was good for another four years.
- Thread starter
- #40
I was mistaken, I am indeed hearing the click from the solenoid. I was always trying to hear for the click in a noisy environment. Its the click from the starter as solenoid closes when the key is turned. That's what I hear.
Anyhoo... I am still getting the intermittent start and its happening more often. I want to factor out the ignition switch. The reason being is that I still hear the click (solenoid engaging) as I turn the key. If the ignition switch was bad this would not happen.
I suppose the solenoid could not be fully closing. I am going to swap out the starter with a spare that I have, and I'll report back in.
Meanwhile, any advice and thoughts on this matter will help.
Anyhoo... I am still getting the intermittent start and its happening more often. I want to factor out the ignition switch. The reason being is that I still hear the click (solenoid engaging) as I turn the key. If the ignition switch was bad this would not happen.
I suppose the solenoid could not be fully closing. I am going to swap out the starter with a spare that I have, and I'll report back in.
Meanwhile, any advice and thoughts on this matter will help.
