Okay, common consensus is I evidently need to double the gaskets with that header. I had the Napa gasket. It was some sort of laminate.The outside was like a perforated metal. What's that called? They referred to it as a "composite".
So I need 2 gaskets of what kind,from where ? What do you torque it down to, 30 lb. specs? I started at 40 and ended up at 45. Tightening inside to outside.
Should I use the Permatex Hi-Temp Copper RTV around the intake ports? That's where my leak is. Instruction says not to use it where gasoline may be present.
Lastly, how many lbs. do you compensate when using an extension on a torque wrench?
Once again,thanks for your time and patience.
a torque wrench will measure the torque being applied at the nut wouldn't it (the ones i'm familiar with do anyway) so an extention just makes it less force exerted on the handle to "create" the same amount of torque.
dad always says when it comes to cars, theres 4 torque settings "needs to be tightened", "needs to come off in the future", important driveline bolt so needs to be tight", and "really needs to test the strength of that 30 year old fastener"
could explain why he became a plumber and not a mechanic.
14-22 ft-lbs torque according to The Manual. I have found the OEM gaskets to work when others have failed. I have heard that Felpro gaskets from NAPA will work, but that isn't what they always carry, and I would specify those. Put the Permatex gasket sealant around your intakes for sure: you won't be getting gasoline on the contact surfaces of the gaskets (unless it isn't sealed!).
I cant remeber, but dont you have a Man-a-fre 6-1 header? If you do, a late model gasket will not work with that header, the exaust port holes are too big for the meeting surface on the header (I know from experience on my 76). Call Man-a-fre and either get 2 paper gaskets made for that header, or get 2 metal early model (F gaskets). They fit great and have the dividers on the exhuast ports to ensure a proper seal (MAF will know what you are talking about). Unfortunately it sounds like you didnt double them up and you used the wrong gasket? I olny RTV'd the exhaust ports when doing mine. Keep at it, youll eventually beat it! BTW, how much did it cost to have the manifold and header planed? I am thinking about doing the same thing.
So you are running an aftermarket header? Getting both the intake and header flanges flat is half the battle. The other half is getting the flange thickness the same. If the intake flange is thicker than the header, all the bolt stress will be on the intake and practically none on the header since the two share common bolts. Some people weld up the thinner flange then file or machine it to the correct thickness. Some use washers cut in half to for a "C" shaped shim. The double gasket trick can help compensate for diffs between the two but you are basically weakening the whole gasketed joint by thickening the gasket. Before you take it apart again, take a close look at the bolts that straddle both manifolds. You might be able to tell that one or the other is loose. Actually if carb cleaner affected it, then the intake is probably thinner than the exhaust flange. I'll also rec' the Fel-Pro gasket. Its made from a material called Grafoil. Nice stuff. Its very good at retaing bolt stress at high temps. Its also good at allowing the head and manifold surfaces to move as they warm up and cool down. Paper/perfed steel composites are ok, but they tend to stick to the flange surfaces and suffer more damage as the joint moves around. As for the torque wrench - socket extensions don't affect them. Now a cheaterbar extension on the handle can - don't do that.
Both the Fel Pro and Napa(Victor) gaskets are good quality gaskets.......but I have found that due to port size of different heads and intakes that the mating surface of the two do not give enough mutual mounting surface for these gaskets to seal due to the sizes of all three components (head, intake, and gasket).....start by making sure that the gasket fits the head ports almost exactly giving at least 1/4 inch sealing area all the way around the port, then that you will get the same 1/4 on the header that matches up to the same 1/4 inch on the head. Then as stated above that all surfaces are flat and will recieve equal torque. As to my problem solver, I had to get the gasket from Toyoto becasue the port opening was to big on aftermarket gaskets.... just my .02
Guys,I am running what appears to be (by catalog photos) a Man-a-fre 6-1 header and a stock intake. IDave,would that same torque spec apply with an aftermarket header ? Where are the best prices for Felpro or OEM gaskets?...I have to buy 2,for Pete's sake!
Offcamber,they quoted me $120 for the planing (both manifolds) but only charged me $60.
Everything else being flat, yes that would be the torque you are aiming for. That is assuming that when they planed it, both the 6>1 and the intake mounting surfaces are now the same thickness. If not, ordinarily (that is, in my case, where no one planed anything) the intake is likely to be slightly thicker. The usual way to compensate is to cut an appropriately sized (thickness) washer so that you can use it to even up the difference. Essentially, cut the washer from an "o" to a "c", and place the "c" part over the thin section (the header in my case). Or, you could plane them even, for a lot more money.
I just got my OEM gaskets at SOR, since at the time I couldn't think of a better place, and there are no Toyota dealers within a hundred miles of me. Perhaps CDan, or someone like that could find you some. You can ask for FelPro gaskets at NAPA. They should be able to get them for you.
i ran into the same problems the first time i tried to fix my exhaust leak. i used the split washer technique, but i'm sure that i still over-torqued the bolts. unfortunately, about a week and a half after i got it sounding good, somebody tried to steal my cruiser, with it ending up hitting a tree hard on the backside. no drive-train damage, just frame/body/rear suspension. and it knocked the exhaust loose all the way to the header. i'm just now gettin the cruiser back running after a tough semester, and am about to tackle the exhaust monster again.
sorry about the semi-hijack,
but do y'all or any 60 guys no of a resource for engine manufacture dates? i have a 2F out of a mid-80's fj60 but i have no idea what exact year. i would love to be able to figure it out, but just don't know how.
y'all have a good one, and good luck with the leak iron-pig,
[quote author=mwalls54 link=board=1;threadid=9326;start=msg83146#msg83146 date=1072990664]
i just instailled one felpro gasket on and it leaks very bad. any sugestions on what i can do. i am not a big fan of installing two gaskets.
Installed for what? If it's exhaust, double gasketing is common and does work.
Ok i have some real problems. one gasket didn't work and 2 gaskets were worse. i am getting real tired of thing. i am using felpro are there any better gaskets i can use. the closest toy dealer is 60 miles away from me and they are idiots.