Replace These Wheel Bearings?

[nissanh]

I used the following torque specs on a LN 106 Hilux front axle (Cruiser also has the same front hub setup) and it worked at the first time.

See at 4:00 minute mark here

 

[2001LC]

Keep going until you have at least 9.5ft breakaway preload (BP) with adjusting nut. Better yet shoot for ~12.5ft. Once locking nut torque down, recheck breakaway. You should than be ~14.5ft BP on the final check. They will loosen to about 8ft BP within 2K miles. I sometimes retoque at 2k to 5k miles.

Series 100 bearings like it tight. With brand new OEM bearings I hit about 47ft-lbf to get 12.5BP. I routinely see 55 to 65ft-lbf torque with worn-in bearing.

The FSM is not concerned with torque on adjusting nut, only BP. What happens if not tight is bearings will chatter. This shows up on claw washer as scoring. This chatter is vibration that increase heat, scoring bearings and spindle.

I presume you greased the bushing & needle bearing in the backside of steering knuckle. That grease needs to be settled in (squeezed out) to set snap ring gap. I pull axle out very hard with a puller set-up, then check gap. It's also possible to drive to settle, 10 or 20 miles, then come back and set snap ring gap. I routinely go up 1 or 2 sizes (thicker) to a 2.4 or 2.6mm snap ring, to achieve a gap of less than 0.20mm. The gap can not be to tight.

Excessive snap rings gap will damage hub flange and axle. The hub flange is the softer metal so it takes the most damage. Loose bearings chatter/vibrate and wide gap allows axle to move in and out beyond design limites. This creates a sawing effect on hub flange and axle teeth. Sawing away at teeth, and pounds on the snap ring, hub flange face and axle groove damaging them. We see stores in mud very often of snap ring (C clip) popping off, improper service is why.

Old hub flange improperly serviced sawed away teeth. Is leading cause of D to N to R clunk.

New

 

[2001LC]

Zero new front drive shaft, hub flange and cone washers. Zero play.

 

[2001LC]

Look at links under "Wheel bearings & Knuckle" if you'd like more info and how to:
Buying, PM & Advance Maintenance of 100 series.

 

[62LostInMn]

Thanks 2001LC - great info. My claw washers looked like those you show above - there was about zero preload on the bearings when I took them apart. And my flanges are worn, although not as bad as those above.

With the adjusting nut torqued to 55 ft lb I have 11-12 BP, it stayed about the same with lock nut torqued.

I did not grease the needle bearing and bushing inside the knuckle. How would you do that without tearing it all down?

 

[TheForger]

Thanks 2001LC - great info. My claw washers looked like those you show above - there was about zero preload on the bearings when I took them apart. And my flanges are worn, although not as bad as those above.

With the adjusting nut torqued to 55 ft lb I have 11-12 BP, it stayed about the same with lock nut torqued.

I did not grease the needle bearing and bushing inside the knuckle. How would you do that without tearing it all down?

How to lubricate front axle shaft bushings?

 

[62LostInMn]

Perfect - thanks. I was thinking about that method after posting the question... I'll get a needle or pointed tip for my grease gun.

 

[TheRealPoser]

I was going to make a new thread but this one is nearly identical so I figured I might as well add on. Holy zombie thread Batman! My LC had the front bearings on one side replaced about 5k miles ago by the PO. They didn't remember which side and the receipt from the shop only lists the parts. I'm replacing the flanges on both sides so I was going to do the other bearings. PO thought the drivers side was done so I pulled the passenger side apart first. Lo and behold there were National bearings, and they looked pretty new, so it looks like I pulled the wrong side.

That said, I noticed what looks a bit like pitting inside the outer bearing (the inner is the one stamped JLM506...). I can't feel it with my finger nail. However, I found a good price with free shipping on an OE bearing and race so I'm just going to replace it.

I'm curious what folks think a out the inner. There is just a hint of the same thing there, but overall looks pretty decent. Should I consider replacing that too? I was thinking of hitting it with some polishing 3k grit to see if I could polish it out and if so put it back.

 

[2001LC]

They should be fine. The inner part of race is not a bearing surface, it's and alignment guide. Which I tend to see scoring on them and the spindle where they ride. When wheel bearings chatter (to loose). So not a big deal to have imperfection, provided slips on smoothly (with a little grease), snugly and squarly. But does speak to workmanship and quality of metal IMHO. I have had to replace some National bearings. I can't say if because of poor install job, metals or both. They used because INDY shops buy cheap.

3K grit will do very little. If you feel need to polish. I'd start with emery cloth around a 220 grit, work up to perhaps a 600 girt in stages.

 

[TheRealPoser]

They should be fine. The inner part of race is not a bearing surface, it's and alignment guide. Which I tend to see scoring on them and the spindle where they ride. When wheel bearings chatter (to loose). So not a big deal to have imperfection, provided slips on smoothly (with a little grease), snugly and squarly. But does speak to workmanship and quality of metal IMHO. I have had to replace some National bearings. I can't say if because of poor install job, metals or both. They used because INDY shops buy cheap.

3K grit will do very little. If you feel need to polish. I'd start with emery cloth around a 220 grit, work up to perhaps a 600 girt in stages.

Thanks @2001LC. I have to admit that it was a bit disappointing to see indications of wear like that with only about 5k miles on them. Part of my internal debate was whether I want to put a part back in that is already showing some wear when I expect the OEM ones I'm putting in will likely outlast the rest of the vehicle, at least if I keep the pre-load dialed in over time. But on the other hand I'm not sure if I'm being to anal by swapping out a nearly new part, hence asking you all for a reality check. There are always plenty of other places that the money could be spent!

Also, a few years ago you mentioned one can check the snap ring gap after driving a bit or by using an axle puller. Do you have a preference for the latter or do they both work sufficiently well?

 

[2001LC]

Thanks @2001LC. I have to admit that it was a bit disappointing to see indications of wear like that with only about 5k miles on them. Part of my internal debate was whether I want to put a part back in that is already showing some wear when I expect the OEM ones I'm putting in will likely outlast the rest of the vehicle, at least if I keep the pre-load dialed in over time. But on the other hand I'm not sure if I'm being to anal by swapping out a nearly new part, hence asking you all for a reality check. There are always plenty of other places that the money could be spent!

Also, a few years ago you mentioned one can check the snap ring gap after driving a bit or by using an axle puller. Do you have a preference for the latter or do they both work sufficiently well?

Driving to settle axle brass bushings fresh grease, is for those without tools needed to pull axle to settle. Whereas driving to settle is fine, it requires more shop time.

I always pull axle and set snap ring, during assemble of wheel bearings. I'm very well dial-in with my tools for wheel bearing service these days.