Replace that PCV valve (1 Viewer)

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Went hunting for the PCV valve and believe I found it thanks to this thread under this foam insulation. How do you remove the foam insulation? It seems like it might just pull out but I was afraid I’d tear it when I was tugging on it.
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Just push it down to the right enough to see the sensor, may break down a bit as you do but no big deal
 
Did this today.

Step 1: pop off engine cover and locate hose: 30 seconds
Step 2: unhook hose( I unhooked both the top and bottom): 10 seconds
Step 3: unscrew old pcv with 22m deep socket: 30 seconds
Step 4: drop new valve into the engine bay. Swear frequently as you repeatedly try to figure out where the little *#@$ is and retrieve: 3 hours 12 minutes( actual time spent)
Step 5: screw in new valve and reattach hose: 2 minutes

assuming you skip step 4, this is literally a 5 minute job.

my old valve did not rattle at all. It looks pretty badly gummed up. This is definitely one of those things everyone should check. I fortunately didn’t have the gross build up on my oil filler cap that some have.
 
Just replaced mine. Seemed original (125k miles) and was completely clogged. I definitely noticed a 1-2 mpg improvement afterwards.
 
Glad to hear, we could safely assume if vehicle is over 5 years old and over 60k miles there is no need to check but REPLACE. That $6 little sucker may pay for itself rather quickly in gas savings even if it is just 1 mile per gallon extra
 
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just replaced mine. easy 5 min job. Hardest part was pinpointing its location. Lets see how it drives tomorrow!
 
Went hunting for the PCV valve and believe I found it thanks to this thread under this foam insulation. How do you remove the foam insulation? It seems like it might just pull out but I was afraid I’d tear it when I was tugging on it.
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Why can't I find it????:cry:
 
Why can't I find it????:cry:
It took me a bit to find it too. Almost posted the same question. Lol. It’s on the drives side near the front. You can see the fan clutch and radiator hose in my pic. Look for the hose coming up out of the foam insulation.
FDAD591B-4D8E-43AB-986D-0B6792DCFC14.jpeg
 
Can't believe it. Can't find it. Here's a pic of mine under hood pass. side. Looks like the PS pump hose is where you are referring too. Plz correct me.

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Can't believe it. Can't find it. Here's a pic of mine under hood pass. side. Looks like the PS pump hose is where you are referring too. Plz correct me.

View attachment 2526100

OK. Here's where it really is - at least this is where it is on my 2013 LC200.

Overall view from the front of the truck pointing to the location of the PCV valve on the Driver's side:

IMG_2851w.jpg


Here's a closer view:

IMG_2852w.jpg


Just peel the foam insulation back and the PCV valve is where the rubber hose ends at its bottom. Remove the hose, then remove the PCV valve.

HTH
 
my pic was too close. sorry about that.
 
Thanks you guys. Pic attached.

PVCwwwwwwwww.jpg
 
I did mine around 100k. No change in crappy mileage. Mine didn't rattle and seemed to close fine, but when I shook the old and new one it's clear the old one felt "heavier" inside. I assume there was some crud built up on it. I didn't try to take it apart.

As others have said it's about a 5 minute job once you know where it's at. It took me about 10 minutes - 5 of which was finding it.
 
This Utube find should help everyone, it is on the Tundra but same setup, unintentional dissection seems to explain why so many of us have valves stuck in various positions

 
Just changed mine, 10 mins thanks to this thread. Also did MAF sensor. Both came out looking brand new, at 175k miles. Went ahead and changed them though, figure it can't hurt.
 
Very informative thread and if there’s a chance of picking up 1 or 2 mpg I’m in.

In the video linked above he snapped the valve at the threads and recommends installing hand tight - for those that have already done this do you agree with that recommendation?

Thanks in advance
 
Very informative thread and if there’s a chance of picking up 1 or 2 mpg I’m in.

In the video linked above he snapped the valve at the threads and recommends installing hand tight - for those that have already done this do you agree with that recommendation?

Thanks in advance
Yes as long as the oring is compressed. The hose clamped to the end will help avoid it unscrewing.
 

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