repack front wheel bearings

[Layonnn]

Yep. I bet that's all they did...and charged him $100 for it. *facepalm*

I'm going to be doing the wheel bearings on both sides, rebooting CV's on one side and replacing an entire axle on the other side coming up here in about a week once I get parts in from CDan.

Would there be any interest in me making a video tutorial on how all of this is done? (provided my simple brain can figure all of it out...)

I can re-read posts and the look at the FSM all day, but I'm a visual learner by nature...and I would have to assume that there are others here that are the same way.

LShobie (sp?) has a few really good videos on youtube about it already, for brakes, bearing repack and such. But he doesn't do any on front IFS axle removal/reboot. I would like to see a video on that for sure.

I watched his videos about 5-6 times in advance of doing my brakes/bearings so i knew exactly what to expect. It made the job a lot less intimidating and easy.

 

[mcalvarez73]

Which bearings are you talking about? Bearings just fall off, are you talking about the races?

the outer bearing just falls off... the inner doesn't is there anything i need to remove first?

 

[hankinid]

Which bearings are you talking about? Bearings just fall off, are you talking about the races?

the outer bearing just falls off... the inner doesn't is there anything i need to remove first?

Once you pull the hub, you'll see the inner seal on the backside/inside of the hub...remove the seal and the inner wheel bearing will be staring you in the face. Get Slee's tool and do the inner bushings after you repack the inner and outer bearings.

Steve

 

[Trunk Monkey]

bearing just falls off... the inner doesn't is there anything i need to remove first?

see Layonn's post, #18, he's right, you have to remove the oil seal. Have a new one on hand I've never been able to remove one and not destroy it.

 

[michaelshin]

Great video on youtube by Ishobie.
Really helpful.

 

[cruiser100]

Yep. I bet that's all they did...and charged him $100 for it. *facepalm*

I'm going to be doing the wheel bearings on both sides, rebooting CV's on one side and replacing an entire axle on the other side coming up here in about a week once I get parts in from CDan.

Would there be any interest in me making a video tutorial on how all of this is done? (provided my simple brain can figure all of it out...)

I can re-read posts and the look at the FSM all day, but I'm a visual learner by nature...and I would have to assume that there are others here that are the same way.

YES VIDEO!

 

[lhommec13]

Yep. I bet that's all they did...and charged him $100 for it. *facepalm*

I'm going to be doing the wheel bearings on both sides, rebooting CV's on one side and replacing an entire axle on the other side coming up here in about a week once I get parts in from CDan.

Would there be any interest in me making a video tutorial on how all of this is done? (provided my simple brain can figure all of it out...)

I can re-read posts and look at the FSM all day, but I'm a visual learner by nature...and I would have to assume that there are others here that are the same way.

Not sure exactly what they did, but the invoice states the following:

MISC RE-TOURQUED THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AS NEEDED
PARTS: 0.00 LABOR: 96.00

I don't really know what goes into repacking the wheel bearings in the first place, so we'll just have to continue speculating as to what I paid $96 to the stealership for.

 

[APKhaos]

Not sure exactly what they did, but the invoice states the following:

MISC RE-TOURQUED THE FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AS NEEDED
PARTS: 0.00 LABOR: 96.00

I don't really know what goes into repacking the wheel bearings in the first place, so we'll just have to continue speculating as to what I paid $96 to the stealership for.

All the guesses appear to be right. According to that invoice, they adjusted the bearings. No repacking mentioned, and repacking the bearings involves a lot more work than a simple adjustment.

 

[paflytyer]

$0.00 in parts tells me they did not repack. They would have charged you for a new gasket at the MINIMUM. Likely a new star washer and at least a few dollars worth of grease too.

 

[gtfour43]

$0.00 in parts tells me they did not repack. They would have charged you for a new gasket at the MINIMUM. Likely a new star washer and at least a few dollars worth of grease too.

I think the lube was free this time
I've never done a bearing repack without having to change the grease seal. I'm guessing they didn't even bother removing anything just checked for play...

 

[Layonnn]

96 bucks does sounds about right if we are assuming they pulled the wheels, removed the cone washers (can be a hassle), removed drive flanges, checked preload, then reassembled. A skilled mechanic could do this job in an hour.

 

[Hellgate]

Video would be great

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Another vote for a video...

 

[Layonnn]

Here is the video that i watched for a great deal of help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ssGa3Iz9ck&list=PL534CB74AA44F6A04&index=1&feature=plpp_video

 

[super90]

Here is the video that i watched for a great deal of help.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ssGa3Iz9ck&list=PL534CB74AA44F6A04&index=1&feature=plpp_video

Great video overall. A few thoughts / opinions:

I am NOT a fan of using a metal punch on the studs for the drive flange. Brass is THE way to go here. Brass hammer or brass drift.

Obviously, one doesn't need to disconnect brake lines either. That was a choice he made for some other aspect of his "brake job".

The factory preload adjustment has been discussed in other threads in terms of the recommended torque specs resulting in the desired preload spec. Be sure to double check with the scale after the lock nut is installed and the lock washer staked. I have seen that change the preload.

YMMV

 

[Layonnn]

Great video overall. A few thoughts / opinions:

I am NOT a fan of using a metal punch on the studs for the drive flange. Brass is THE way to go here. Brass hammer or brass drift.

Obviously, one doesn't need to disconnect brake lines either. That was a choice he made for some other aspect of his "brake job".

The factory preload adjustment has been discussed in other threads in terms of the recommended torque specs resulting in the desired preload spec. Be sure to double check with the scale after the lock nut is installed and the lock washer staked. I have seen that change the preload.

YMMV

Brass, definitely.


He clamped the brake line because he was replacing the caliper with a new caliper.

 

[SupraTuRD]

Please refrain from using vises rips to pinch brake lines. The sharp edges from the tool will damage the rubber (brittle in most cases) and can lead to brake failures. These little hoses see hydraulic pressures that will cause them to rupture at the most inopportune time.

I use a Snap On tool designed specifically to pinch off hoses without damaging them. The portion that contacts the hose is blunt/rounded so there's no chance of hurting the hoses. The tool also works great when working with the transmission cooler lines. =]

 

[APKhaos]

Try this when disconnecting brake lines:

Depress the brake pedal about one inch using a suitable stick wedged between the seat and the pedal. This closes the master cylinder port and prevents fluid drain when brake lines are disconnected.

Oh, and definitely do not use vice grips or any sharp tool to clamp flex brake lines. That's asking for a brake failure.

 

[Carrera2]

I just replaced the front rotors, so I replaced the bearings, races and seals while I was there. A brass drift and hammer is essential to get the cone washers to "pop' and to drive the outer races out of the hub. When repacking don't forget the spindle bearing too.
I only had 2 issues with this job, one was getting the rotors off the hub. I had to use my 12 ton press to pop them off. No way they were budging otherwise. The other was the crappy pins used to retain the pads on the calipers. 3 were frozen. I had to remove the calipers and drill them out. I fabbed some duplicates in stainless, no worries next time!

-Chris

2000 Landcruiser
2005 Porsche Carrera S
2005 Sierra Quadrasteer
2005 Audi A6 4.2
2002 Audi allroad
1969 Camaro RS
1929 Ford Model A

 

[paflytyer]

2000 Landcruiser
2005 Porsche Carrera S
2005 Sierra Quadrasteer
2005 Audi A6 4.2
2002 Audi allroad
1969 Camaro RS
1929 Ford Model A

That's a nice little collection you've got there!