repack front wheel bearings

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Jason YY said:
Question- re wheel bearings

Is the initial Torque measured in FT lbs and final measured in inch lbs?
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Correct.

The fish scale verifies that the torque setting got you the correct bearing clearance.

Steve
 
Carrera2 said:
I only had 2 issues with this job, one was getting the rotors off the hub. I had to use my 12 ton press to pop them off. No way they were budging otherwise.
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I placed the rotor in a vise, sprayed around the hub with PB blaster, and use a pry bar to wiggle it off. Only took about 2-3 minutes. Its a very tight fit so you have to keep working your way around or you just make it wedge tighter.
 
Layonnn said:
I placed the rotor in a vise, sprayed around the hub with PB blaster, and use a pry bar to wiggle it off. Only took about 2-3 minutes. Its a very tight fit so you have to keep working your way around or you just make it wedge tighter.
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I wish it was that easy. I soaked them in Kroil, torched them and pryed them. I got them to move a little but noticed I was starting to mar the hub face that the rotor registers against; they were too tight. The shop press popped them off nice and straight.
No doubt the results of our salty roads.
-Chris

2000 Landcruiser
2005 Porsche Carrera S
2005 Sierra Quadrasteer
2005 Audi A6 4.2
2002 Audi allroad
1969 Camaro RS
1929 Ford Model A
 
one hint for removing the inner bearing if you are in a pinch and don't have a new seal. Pull the outer bearing, put the washer and nut back on, then pull the rotor towards you, it should pop off the seal and the inner bearing...
 
Rather than start a new thread, I thought I’d resurrect this one to post my dilemma. For the life of me, I can’t get the cone washers off the hub studs. I backed off the nuts, sprayed PB Blaster on each washer, tapped for while, then left it for the afternoon. This evening I started fairly gently with my great-grandfather’s heavy brass hammer, tapping both the studs and hub flange. By the time I was done I was beating away with a 4 pound steel sledge until my drift bent and my nose bled. Based on what I’ve seen so far, I’d say that I’m the first one to tackle the wheel bearing re-pack in 9 years and 90,000 miles on this Land Cruiser. I’ve read this thread and watched the YouTube. I just want to make sure I’m after the right result. There is a nut and regular washer on each stud. Behind that is the cone washer and I want to release the cone washer, which is “gripping” both the stud and the hub, right? Do I need to push the stud into the hub? Do the cone washers pop out one at a time? Does the hub pop forward when the studs release? Is there anything I can do besides beating on the ends of the studs or around the edge of the hub? Prying, twisting, heating, chiseling, pulling?
 
Just posting about the cone washers gave me the break I needed before trying again. I got them out with lots more pounding using the old brass hammer.
 
what size is that large nut socket? Is that something I can pick up at a auto parts store? I do have a huge ratchet set( stole from my dad years ago) but I don't know if it will be deep enough? I am planning on doing this work this weekend. pray for me!!!
 
DJCloz said:
what size is that large nut socket? Is that something I can pick up at a auto parts store? I do have a huge ratchet set( stole from my dad years ago) but I don't know if it will be deep enough? I am planning on doing this work this weekend. pray for me!!!
Click to expand...
In the F&Q:

Front Bearing Replacement

54mm
 
thanks @DirtDawg ! Your like the most active dude on here!
 
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