Remove emissions or not? (2 Viewers)

[Ullr]

I am about to pull the engine which means removing the emissions stuff and I am wondering if I should put them back. For those who have desmogged thier 2f, are you glad you did or would you recomend against it?

The subject is a '76 40 with stock 2f undergoing a frame off, not a resto its a semi-build up. While I have the engine out and am rebuilding it why not set it up for no emmissions? I don't want to hot rod it, just want to simplify it if it won't adversely affect performance. I like the 2F and Aisin carb.

 

[jjhancock]

You have far less emissions gear than my 81 does, but I left it all intact. When I look in the manual what I see is the same as what's under the hood, and by that I mean the octopus. But that's just me. I'm sure it would be far easier on your truck. Is the reasoning behind the de-smog to gain power, and if so how significant of an increase do people see I wonder?

 

[Heartworm]

1976 desmog

My 76 FJ40 had been desmogged by the PO. However, when I got it I had Jim Chenoweth rebuild the carb for a desmogged set-up and I added a 1985 electronic distributor out of an FJ60. The thing runs like a top and gets 15+mpg. Good luck.

 

[Pin_Head]

I don't think that it is worth removing bacause it can run worse. The typical problems include popping in the exhaust manifold when you let off the gas because the throttle positioner doesn't work any more and having the power valve open all the time gives worse gas mileage.

If you want the benefits of a de-smogged engine without the problems I would just plug he EGR and distributor retard vacuum lines, remove the vanes from the air pump and remove the air rail and plug the holes.

 

[Poser]

Thought CO had smog laws....

 

[honk]

I guess that you're in an area or county which doesn't require periodic smog checks? Or the age cutoff aplies to your cruiser? If so I think that the only way to successfully desmog AND have a good running engine is with either a Jim Chenowith/Mark's Offroad carb rebuilt to run on a desmogged engine as described by Heartworn above or by installing a non USA market carb and distributor from SOR. (or installing a TBI system)

But even if you are now in a non inspection county I'd look carefully at the possibility of your area adopting those requirements. It's never said but I'd bet that there are quite a few people who've removed or deactivated their smog equipment at some time having to sell their truck because they suddenly find that they no longer can legally operate it on the public roads. Santa Cruz county in Cal. did that one year, just to try to get me off of their streets

 

[Ullr]

We have emissions laws but the 40 is past that, the only reason I would have to pass an emmissions test is to sell it. If I remove any emmissions equipment I will save it, label it and store it.

Part of the reason I would like to de-smog it is that some of my emmissions equipment is in bad shape and rather than replace it I am exploring the possibility of removing it. Another part is necesity, the air pump needs to go to make room for the PS pump and the retard line to the dizzy is going to go when I put in an FJ60 distributor. But I am not committed to it, which is why I am posting here.

So basically if I plug the EGR too I have done it as Pin Head suggested. Since I just rebuilt my carb last year this may be the way to go, I would rather not pay to get my rebuilt carb rebuilt again

Thanks for the responses. Im finalizing the list of what I'm going to do with this frame off.

 

[PabloCruise]

Ian,

I'd leave it.

Do you already have collector plates for it? Otherwise, you will need an inspection. In Boulder don't you have to put it on the wheel dyno?

I don't know why everyone freaks out about the e-tests. Just replace your vac lines, route them correctly, tune your engine and you'll be fine. If you want/need to sell it quickly, it may be a huge PITA to re-smog it...

 

[bustanutley]

simpler is better, take that sh#t off

81 is the dyno test I think

 

[texas77fj40]

take it off it just gets in way when you're trying to work on something else. chances are it doesn't work anymore anyways. i just cut all the hoses so there was enough room for a bb to seal the hose. but do see which ones go where and if you don't need it throw it on the shelf.

 

[Ullr]

Pablo - I don't have to sweat emmissions tests anymore, its been registered as a collectors vehicle for years. However, I don't have to sweat the emmissions system itself since I fixed it all. I can go either way and I don't care, I am looking for mechanical reasons to remove it or not.

I have decided to put everything back for now except the air rail, air pump, and EGR. This will allow me to focus on the frame and body and getting the vehicle back together again. I am going to rebuild the engine next winter and will probably de-smog it then.

So, does anyone know where I can get a cap big enough for the EGR hole in the exhaust manifold?

 

[Pin_Head]

So, does anyone know where I can get a cap big enough for the EGR hole in the exhaust manifold?

It isn't worth the time to remove it. Leave it in place and just plug the vacuum actuator line so it stays in its default closed state. It will run worse if you just remove everything, unless you replace the carb and distributor. It is also worth more the more original it is.