Remove a harmonic balancer - How?

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Those timing covers can be a pita. Lots of small tricks. Make sure the edges sit flat. I took a small hammer and wood block and totally flattened it. Definitely scrape off all gasket. Also when installing do all the bolts torque slightly to allow the cover to completely align. Then make sure to know what the torque specs are for the bolts.

I had to redo this three times to get it right. Such is the learning process. Good luck

I just realized that I don’t know what the torque is for the (10) small 10mm head bolts with the Phillips screw heads. Two of those are the longer ones. The FSM doesn’t provide a torque value and the Toyota bolt specification does provide it (to my knowledge) since there is no marking on the bolts to reference.
 
I’m pretty sure those are 10-12 ft lbs. You’ll need RTV around the 14mm bolts and the bottom part of the gasket where oil will rest when the vehicle is parked. You can get Toyota brand RTV and it’s really good stuff. In fact some of the Ford dealerships use it in their shops.

It’s kinda tough to get the torque exact so just tighten them slowly all the around till you creep up on the spec. It’s so low you may not get the wrench to click. You just want to see the cork barely start to expand. Stop there. Don’t squish it too much or it will break the gasket. 10 ft lbs feels like it’s a little less than hand tight.
 
I’m pretty sure those are 10-12 ft lbs. You’ll need RTV around the 14mm bolts and the bottom part of the gasket where oil will rest when the vehicle is parked. You can get Toyota brand RTV and it’s really good stuff. In fact some of the Ford dealerships use it in their shops.

It’s kinda tough to get the torque exact so just tighten them slowly all the around till you creep up on the spec. It’s so low you may not get the wrench to click. You just want to see the cork barely start to expand. Stop there. Don’t squish it too much or it will break the gasket. 10 ft lbs feels like it’s a little less than hand tight.

Thanks!!

BTW, do you grease the crankshaft or HB hub when reinstalling the HB, or is it dry/clean for a tight fit? Is the only grease on the HB input shaft where it slides through the seal, and Seal lip and on the back of the seal to hold spring in place?

I
 
Thanks!!

BTW, do you grease the crankshaft or HB hub when reinstalling the HB, or is it dry/clean for a tight fit? Is the only grease on the HB input shaft where it slides through the seal, and Seal lip and on the back of the seal to hold spring in place?

I
You just need to lubricate the rubber lip of the seal. I like to get oil in the spring inside the seal too just so it doesn’t hang up. A little is all you need. You will also need to lubricate the mating face of the nut. Not the threads, just the part that will push against the HB. If you don’t the nut will gouge the HB and make it difficult or impossible to torque completely.
 
I picked this up from oreilly auto parts. It’s an inch pounds torque wrench that doesn’t click. It’s old school like the Toyota FSM shows. It’s easy to use without over torquing small nuts and bolts. I got tired of using the click type wrench only to have my timing cover leak immediately after. This thing is very gentle.

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You just need to lubricate the rubber lip of the seal. I like to get oil in the spring inside the seal too just so it doesn’t hang up. A little is all you need. You will also need to lubricate the mating face of the nut. Not the threads, just the part that will push against the HB. If you don’t the nut will gouge the HB and make it difficult or impossible to torque completely.
Doesn’t the lock tab mate to the HB between the Nut and the HB?
 
This is the first I’ve heard of a locking tab on the HB nut. I don’t have one and I haven’t seen anybody else using one. Do you have a picture of yours?
 
I just bought a new one from Redline in CO.. Toyota discontinued.


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RL1005 HARMONIC BALANCER LOCKOUT, Replacement for Toyota 13495-60010 LOCK, CRANKSHAFT PULLEY​
It locks the HB and the Nut one tab goes into the HB key slot. The others go around the Nut to hold in place
 
🤯 whoa… I never knew…
 
Doesn’t the lock tab mate to the HB between the Nut and the HB?

This is the first I’ve heard of a locking tab on the HB nut. I don’t have one and I haven’t seen anybody else using one. Do you have a picture of yours?

IIRCC @rstoddard has a 70's 2F with 2 groove HB
the lock tab was on HB's that you could still use the hand crank on
almost all later US 2F's used a different nut and the hand crank doesn't work anymore
 
IIRCC @rstoddard has a 70's 2F with 2 groove HB
the lock tab was on HB's that you could still use the hand crank on
almost all later US 2F's used a different nut and the hand crank doesn't work anymore
Mine is a 1978. Yes, the Nut is a shaped for hand cranking… I don’t recall if there was a special hand crank that attached to that or not. I didn’t know that the locking Tab was related to the hand cranking function. I thought it was to stake the Nut so it doesn’t loosen.
 
Mine is a 1978. Yes, the Nut is a shaped for hand cranking… I don’t recall if there was a special hand crank that attached to that or not. I didn’t know that the locking Tab was related to the hand cranking function. I thought it was to stake the Nut so it doesn’t loosen.

the tab locks the nut, it has nothing to do with using the hand crank.
the nut changed and the tab was no longer used
 
Your 46mm socket is the prefect driver. Put a light coat of oil on the seal for lubrication and gently tap it into place. Don’t let it get crooked. Make sure the cover is on a solid flat surface so you don’t bend it. Also, check that the gasket surface of the cover is flat before you install it. It’s easy to bend them and cause a leak. View attachment 3194464View attachment 3194465

That sucker is a bugger to get on. Hard to tell when it’s fully seated and if its even all the way around. You do your very best and hope it’s on correctly. Looks good, but it’s all about precision.
 
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