Remove a harmonic balancer - How?

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FINALLY SOME ANSWERS:
Okay, so I got the HB off. There doesn’t seem to be any problems with the Balancer. Rubber is good. Rivets good. Even the key slot looks good.

I could see a lot of slop in the Key in the Key slot of the Crankshaft. It was moving from side to side rather easily, and a lot of slop in the spacing between the Key and the Key slot. I expected to see a lot of damage to the Key slot, but to my amazement, there wasn’t any. The edges of the slot look good. They are straight without any chips or apparent damage.

On the other hand, the key seems to fit snugly in the slot of the HB. Huh?

So why is the Key loose, sloppy in the Crankshaft slot, but snug in the HB? Is the Key designed with a wider footing for the Crankshaft? Again, there doesn’t seem to be damage to the Crankshaft slot.

Appreciate any insights on this. I can post pics
 
rstoddard said:
FINALLY SOME ANSWERS:
Okay, so I got the HB off. There doesn’t seem to be any problems with the Balancer. Rubber is good. Rivets good. Even the key slot looks good.

I could see a lot of slop in the Key in the Key slot of the Crankshaft. It was moving from side to side rather easily, and a lot of slop in the spacing between the Key and the Key slot. I expected to see a lot of damage to the Key slot, but to my amazement, there wasn’t any. The edges of the slot look good. They are straight without any chips or apparent damage.

On the other hand, the key seems to fit snugly in the slot of the HB. Huh?

So why is the Key loose, sloppy in the Crankshaft slot, but snug in the HB? Is the Key designed with a wider footing for the Crankshaft? Again, there doesn’t seem to be damage to the Crankshaft slot.

Appreciate any insights on this. I can post pics
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Yes, post pictures. It’s always difficult to say without seeing what’s going on.
rstoddard said:
Yikes! Might as well rebuild the engine at that point.
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That’s what I’m doing right now… largely for this crank shaft failure.
 
It’s hard to get a good photo of the Crankshaft slot. On further examination it may be worn and angled on one side allowing it to shift. I’m sure it probably needs to be re- cut. I just can’t come to grips with that financially or emotionally yet.

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I can defiantly see where it was beginning to wobble. Doesn’t look like it failed as miserable as some have. Yes, it’s a big undertaking to pull it all out and fix it the right way. And it’s costly too. Not gonna lie.
 
is there wear on the crank? looks like a line all the way around where the keyway ends

there is a loctite product that may help get by for awhile
 
Yes, there seems to be some wear on the shaft. Hard for me to tell how much. I will say that the HB pulled right off without a puller, with just some slight giggling.

I was looking at a product called Belzona 1111 which looks pretty interesting


Here’s another picture of the nose:


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The pulley should not come off that easy. Looks like the front main is dry rotted and cracking.
 
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the HB should not wiggle off the crank, it is a tapered fit which should be tight.
if the shaft is worn, just fixing the keyway will not work for long, as the HB will not be tight to the crank.

you need the space between the 2 to be filled up so they are tight together.

loctite has a product for bonding a male and female piece together, sheeves on a shaft, which may work in conjunction with the keyway stuff.
but removal after using needs heat to break the bond, but at that point you know you'll be into a replacement anyway
 
3_puppies said:
the HB should not wiggle off the crank, it is a tapered fit which should be tight.
if the shaft is worn, just fixing the keyway will not work for long, as the HB will not be tight to the crank.

you need the space between the 2 to be filled up so they are tight together.

loctite has a product for bonding a male and female piece together, sheeves on a shaft, which may work in conjunction with the keyway stuff.
but removal after using needs heat to break the bond, but at that point you know you'll be into a replacement anyway
Click to expand...

So you are talking about some kind of bonding agent you apply to the nose when you put the HB back on that bonds the HB to the nose shaft (combined with a bonding of the Key way)?

How would anyone get the HB off? Wouldn’t the heat destroy the HB and the nose?
 
rstoddard said:
So you are talking about some kind of bonding agent you apply to the nose when you put the HB back on that bonds the HB to the nose shaft (combined with a bonding of the Key way)?

How would anyone get the HB off? Wouldn’t the heat destroy the HB and the nose?
Click to expand...

correct to all above.

at this point your in a bad spot and if you don't want to change the crank out now, which is what needs to be done, you can go with the route I suggested, but it is a 1 time deal and the crank needs replaced anyway.

you need to figure out what you want to do:
replace the crank only
full engine rebuild
1 time "repair" to get by, might last for years or it might last 2 months
find a used 2F and swap out
 
@3_puppies is it even possible to buy a new Crankshaft? Do you replace with a used shaft? Can the nose be repaired (other than the key way)?

@cps432 Are you having your shaft Key way welded and re-cut? Nose still good?
 
rstoddard said:
@3_puppies is it even possible to buy a new Crankshaft? Do you replace with a used shaft? Can the nose be repaired (other than the key way)?
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I think a competant machine shop could repair the crank, but, it is time and money versus replacing.
the shop would need to build up the crank and then turn it down, or maybe turn it down and make a make a tapered bushing to "renew" the snout.
the crank would need to be removed either way, so replacement seems the easiest versus repair
 
rstoddard said:
@3_puppies is it even possible to buy a new Crankshaft? Do you replace with a used shaft? Can the nose be repaired (other than the key way)?

@cps432 Are you having your shaft Key way welded and re-cut? Nose still good?
Click to expand...
I’m still debating my options. I have a very good cruiser mechanic nearby and I may check with them for their opinion. I would feel better replacing the crank, honestly. It’s a lot of work to fix it, but these are really good parts otherwise. It’s worth fixing. My journals all look fantastic and it is kind of a shame to just junk the thing when there is in fact a way to fix it. I think it comes down to cost/time. What’s gonna get me back on the road faster/cheaper.
 
3_puppies said:
I think a competant machine shop could repair the crank, but, it is time and money versus replacing.
the shop would need to build up the crank and then turn it down, or maybe turn it down and make a make a tapered bushing to "renew" the snout.
the crank would need to be removed either way, so replacement seems the easiest versus repair
Click to expand...
But… who sells a new Crankshaft? I can’t find anything online. AFAIK, Toyota doesn’t make them anymore. That’s why I was asking. I’m not sure replacement is an option. If you know where to find one pls let me know.
 
cps432 said:
I’m still debating my options. I have a very good cruiser mechanic nearby and I may check with them for their opinion. I would feel better replacing the crank, honestly. It’s a lot of work to fix it, but these are really good parts otherwise. It’s worth fixing. My journals all look fantastic and it is kind of a shame to just junk the thing when there is in fact a way to fix it. I think it comes down to cost/time. What’s gonna get me back on the road faster/cheaper.
Click to expand...

Would love to know what you decide. Do you know anyone selling a replacement Shaft?
 
rstoddard said:
But… who sells a new Crankshaft? I can’t find anything online. AFAIK, Toyota doesn’t make them anymore. That’s why I was asking. I’m not sure replacement is an option. If you know where to find one pls let me know.
Click to expand...

NOS may not be available, maybe @MSP1989 would have one available, IIRCC he had a NOS short block but that may have sold already
if not good used is the other option, posting a wanted thread here:

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