Removal of rear wheel studs

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Spook50

Spook50

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On every rear disc writeup I've seen, it's said that depending on the width of the rotors used, longer wheel studs may be needed. If they are needed, it's also said that the axle shafts need to be pulled out a ways to replace the wheel studs. One thing I've noticed though, is that tis is all for FJ40s. Is it necessary to pull the axle shaft out at all on a 60/62 series to change the studs? I'd like to avoid it if at all possible, becuase I don't want to mess around with that extra amount of work.
 
On the rear on my 60 you have to pull the axle shafts to change the wheel studs.The bolts have to go through the end of the axle shaft towards the 3rd member to come out. Its not bad. Just have to open the diff and removed the C clips. Once you pull it out a little bit there is really no difference to pull it out the rest of the way.
 
On my 60 FF with Chevy rotors I did not have to replace my rear studs, FWIW. If you cut off the rear backing plate with a sawzall you won't need to pull the shafts... Once the backing plate is off you'll have plenty of room to work.
 
Not sure if you're talking about replacing existing with longer studs or just swaping out for the same size. For the same size stud, just get a big hammer and it'll pop out. I just changed my out a couple of weeks ago because one of the wheels studs was stripped out. Took 2 minutes to pop old one out and put new one in.
 
I would not hammer out a stud with the axleshaft in place.When I get my big hammer out and whack out the studs it seems like you could do some damage to the diff. Maybe I am just too paranoid about breaking my diff with my locker.
 
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I seriously doubt you'll need to get longer studs. Remember that you're removing the old drum and sliding the new rotor on in it's place, the thickness is very close to the same. I didn't need to do this when I did my RDB on my mini-truck.

RDB1.jpg
 
You don't need longer studs. You don't need to pull the axles if you do want to change the studs. Driving the studs out will not damage the diff/locker.


Mark...
 
KLF said:
I seriously doubt you'll need to get longer studs. Remember that you're removing the old drum and sliding the new rotor on in it's place, the thickness is very close to the same. I didn't need to do this when I did my RDB on my mini-truck.
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Well here's my problem though, when I get new wheels, I can't get the ones I want with the right backspacing, so I'll need 1/4" spacers. If there's enough stuf length to accomodate that, then I'm not worried. I noticed it's a bitch to find anything longer than the 44.5mm studs with the right knurl diameter anyway :rolleyes:
 
Choose different wheels. Form follows function.


Mark...
 
Mark W said:
Choose different wheels. Form follows function.


Mark...
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Oh believe me, I definately adhere to this, but I don't want something that's gonna look like I'm trying to be "bling bling". The wheels I'm ordering are a set of black 15x10" Cragars, but the backspacing is 4" :doh:
 
You *could* run spacers on the front and not on the back. My gut doesn't like this but I don't think that there would be any real problems from it.


Mark...
 
I'm also curious why you're getting 10" wide wheels. How wide of a tire are you planning on? 'Cuz a 12.5" wide tire will fit just fine on 8" wide wheels.
 
My advice get different wheels. Especailly if you havent ordered them. 4" will not work, some 3 5/8" BS will not work. (Are the US wheels rims from summit too bling?)

And 10" wide, why? Have you reasearched rims / wheels at all? 10" wide as stated above are for really wide tires 14"+ in my book. If you do go 10" wide dont plan on ever airing down offroad or if yo udo learn how to reseat beads on the field.
 
10 inch don't suddenly shed the tire just because you air down some. An 8 inch arguably holds the tire on the rim better, but it's not as if the 10 incher *wants* to lose it.

One reason to go with a 10 inch rim is to push the tire out an inch.

In my case, I'm looking for some 12 inchers for my 39.5x18 boggers. They fit and work fine on a 10 inch and (obviously) hold the bead very well. But a 12 inch rim will push the center of the tire ou another inch from the springs to provide the needed clearance.

While this is likely not the reason that Spook wants the 10 inchers, lots of guys prefer them for the extra track width.


Mark...
 
89s rule said:
My advice get different wheels. Especailly if you havent ordered them. 4" will not work, some 3 5/8" BS will not work. (Are the US wheels rims from summit too bling?)

And 10" wide, why? Have you reasearched rims / wheels at all? 10" wide as stated above are for really wide tires 14"+ in my book. If you do go 10" wide dont plan on ever airing down offroad or if yo udo learn how to reseat beads on the field.
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Yeah, 4" is too much backspacing, which is why I'd need 1/4" spacers. The 15x10" wheels will get 31x11.5 tires until I do the eventual SOA, when they'll get 37x12 (or 12.5, I can't remember exactly which width I had found. I wrote it down somewhere...).
 
An 11.5" wide tire is gonna look goofy on a 10" wide rim... unless you're going for the poser look. Go with an 8" wide rim.

Who makes a 31x11.5 tire anyway? Never heard of that size.
 
KLF said:
An 11.5" wide tire is gonna look goofy on a 10" wide rim... unless you're going for the poser look. Go with an 8" wide rim.

Who makes a 31x11.5 tire anyway? Never heard of that size.
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Woops that was the size of the Mickey Thompson's I was originally looking at but was talked out of. The ones I'm looking at now are 31x12.5" Pro Comp Xterrains. I still have more shopping around to do, but so far these are looking pretty good to me. Good aggresive traction but it also appears go be good for dry pavement as well, and they're radials.

exp-35231.jpg


My main concern with wanting wider wheels is the width of the wheelbase once it's SOA'd. I don't want to feel like I'm going to tip just by goind around a corner...
 
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