If you remove the h55f and install a turbo 350 you will not have any more clutch issues.
Release bearing riding pressure plate (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter farpolemiddle
- Start date
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Downey
SILVER Star
And if he installs a 700R4 he will have an even lower first gear and an overdrive high gear, all at about the same cost as installing a TH350.If you remove the h55f and install a turbo 350 you will not have any more clutch issues.
- Thread starter
- #23
Ok so in these pics it shows my adapter. My clutch fork and angle. The spring I used to ghetto rig my pivot point tighter. I believe this is an older AA adapter to chevy bell housing. In one pic you can see the little lip on the base of the shaft of the bearing retainer. That is the original O.D. This is a brand new tranny with the front bearing retainer machined down like how they did it back in the day but sleeved inside to get a little thickness back. It seems to work fine and fit the adapter. You can also kind of see the worn angle on the clutch fork nubs.
Current plan of action
1. Buy downey clutch after he confirms it will fit this adapter
2. Buy new clutch fork from AA PN716176 (GM# 3765372) Release Arms & Release Bearings | Tech Vault | Advance Adapters
3. Buy a new adjustable chevy adjustable length pivot ball
4. A lower profile Release bearing
Current plan of action
1. Buy downey clutch after he confirms it will fit this adapter
2. Buy new clutch fork from AA PN716176 (GM# 3765372) Release Arms & Release Bearings | Tech Vault | Advance Adapters
3. Buy a new adjustable chevy adjustable length pivot ball
4. A lower profile Release bearing
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- Thread starter
- #24
As green as a FJ55 with a carb and notcat getting 13 miles to the gallon is going to get.
- Thread starter
- #25
If you remove the h55f and install a turbo 350 you will not have any more clutch issues.
If I knew it was all going to be this much of a pain I would have. But then I would have to redo my drive shafts and my crossmember. I had a working truck but then I didn't and now it has been one thing after another.
I was just joking. I don't see any lube anywhere on the bearing or the fork. Their should be lube on all the contact points the clutch fork has. Their should also be lube where the bearing slides back and forth. If you disconnect the slave cylinder can you move the bearing away from the pressure plate by hand?
- Thread starter
- #27
Pics added a few posts back.
Can someone confirm this is an older AA adapter to chevy?
And can some one confirm my clutch fork angle is wrong and should be angled more towards the pressure plate with a shorter release bearing?
Can someone confirm this is an older AA adapter to chevy?
And can some one confirm my clutch fork angle is wrong and should be angled more towards the pressure plate with a shorter release bearing?
- Thread starter
- #28
There is some grease on the bearing retainer shaft. with the slave off it pivots easy with and without the extra spring I added. That black spring just pulls it tight to the pivot. I can get in there and add grease but I don't see that solving the current problems. Edit. You are right though. Don't want you to think I am not appreciative of advice.
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Have you tried a stiffer return spring?
Can't say who made the adapter plate. Downey discontinued them before I bought mine. I've also seen home brew ones that looked the same.
It looks like you can shorten the rod at least 1/4". I'd start there before breaking the bank.
It looks like you can shorten the rod at least 1/4". I'd start there before breaking the bank.
- Thread starter
- #31
The adapter is at least pre 1982. It may even Be from the 70s. I did try a stiffer return spring. Also I can adjust the rod to the point that it doesn't touch but then it won't disengage the clutch. My understanding is that for the chevy clutch to work there can be zero slop in all the parts because you just barely have enough slave movement. The other solution seems to be a pre 70 brake master that has a different size which increases slave throw at the expense of stiff pedal.
- Thread starter
- #32
Well I guess I am pulling all this now. God damn clutch release arm decided to come off the pivot which caused the slave to over extend and dump all the fluid. I didn't notice the clutch arm until I fixed it on the side of the road...twice... including getting a new slave.
Chevota clutch ordered
New clutch arm ordered
Anyone recommend a quality low profile chevy release bearing?
Chevota clutch ordered
New clutch arm ordered
Anyone recommend a quality low profile chevy release bearing?
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Bummer.
When you get your new Chevota clutch, would you mind taking a picture of it along with your old clutch so I can see the difference in the "low profile" design. Also.... is the Chevota clutch a 11" or 12". You responded to my other post, so you are a few days ahead of me in changing things out. If OK with you, send the pictures to my E-Mail address (atazman@sbcglobal.net) unless, of course, you want them posted here.
Thanks for sharing your information.
- Thread starter
- #35
I am assuming it is 11"....
Downey
SILVER Star
Farpolemiddle, now that I've seen the photos of your clutch (and adapter) I can tell you that you do not have an Advance Adapters bellhousing, you have an older (original design) Downewy bellhousing.
(a) AA originally used a 360 degree Scatter Shield bellhousing for their 4 speed adapter, then eventually went to an aluminum bellhousing of their own design.
(b) Downey originally used stock Chevy bellhousings and machined a thick steel adapter plate onto them (which is exactly what you have). Downey also eventually went to a 360 degree aluminum bellhousing of our own design. Your earlier Downey adapter also included a re-machined front bearing retainer for the front of the 4 speed tranny. It was machined to clear part of the bellhousing, and to take a Chevy throw out bearing.
Your Chevota clutch is shipping today. Stock Chevy clutch takes about 1/2" of throwout bearing travel to disengage, this clutch takes about 3/8" of throwout bearing travel to disengage, no touchy adjustment required.
(a) AA originally used a 360 degree Scatter Shield bellhousing for their 4 speed adapter, then eventually went to an aluminum bellhousing of their own design.
(b) Downey originally used stock Chevy bellhousings and machined a thick steel adapter plate onto them (which is exactly what you have). Downey also eventually went to a 360 degree aluminum bellhousing of our own design. Your earlier Downey adapter also included a re-machined front bearing retainer for the front of the 4 speed tranny. It was machined to clear part of the bellhousing, and to take a Chevy throw out bearing.
Your Chevota clutch is shipping today. Stock Chevy clutch takes about 1/2" of throwout bearing travel to disengage, this clutch takes about 3/8" of throwout bearing travel to disengage, no touchy adjustment required.
I am currently running the AA setup and can give you all the part numbers if you would like...
- Thread starter
- #38
Do you have a picture of what was machined on the old 4 speed front bearing retainer? That bearing retainer appears to have been transferred to a H55f at some point. I have a new H55f with the new style bearing retainer and did not use the old one but I still have it.nI did have my new H55f Bearing retainer turned down to use chevy release bearings.
What release bearing do you recommend with this old style adapter, your clutch and the chevy cast straight arm?
- Thread starter
- #39
This is the older style 4 speed? H55F? bearing retainer that was on this truck for 25 years.
Where was it machined so I can make sure it is is not hitting on the new one?
Since the new one bolted all the way up and was working I am probably ok.
Edit. The current retainer I have is the one on the right in the lower pic but I had it sleeved to the same I.D. of the old style and turned down to use a chevy release bearing.
Where was it machined so I can make sure it is is not hitting on the new one?
Since the new one bolted all the way up and was working I am probably ok.
Edit. The current retainer I have is the one on the right in the lower pic but I had it sleeved to the same I.D. of the old style and turned down to use a chevy release bearing.
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- Thread starter
- #40
So I am now able to drop the transmission from FJ55 complete and ready to drive to on the floor in 2 hours.
Pic 1 - better pic of adapter plate that shows dowels. I am assuming this is not the very first model but old as dirt still.
Pic 2 - shows my current front bearing retainer.
Pic 3 - shows how I had the retainer machined.
Pic 4 - shows my pilot bearing depth which is not perfect but I think good enough for this pile of crap.
Pic 5 - where I was worried about the bearing retainer rubbing but seems to be fine.
Pic 1 - better pic of adapter plate that shows dowels. I am assuming this is not the very first model but old as dirt still.
Pic 2 - shows my current front bearing retainer.
Pic 3 - shows how I had the retainer machined.
Pic 4 - shows my pilot bearing depth which is not perfect but I think good enough for this pile of crap.
Pic 5 - where I was worried about the bearing retainer rubbing but seems to be fine.
