Regearing project (1 Viewer)

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Dan,

Why the need for 46 shims (2 sets)? Is this 23 for front and 23 for rear or all 46 for the rear? If all 46 for the rear, then only 23 shims(1 set) are needed as you cannot fit two of the same shims in the same diff from what I'm hearing. This info is from the guy in Reno. He'll be selling the remaining 43 shims!

A picture is worth how much? The highlighted numbers 41301B in the pic. There is one on each side.
 
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A picture is worth how much?

... a thousand words. Pictures of 80 rear e-locked diff are from Zuk's web site.

ben47.jpg


"These are shims that I normally use for the T100 Taco solid collars and they work perfect for this 9" E-Locker pinion shim. Adding 3 thou for a total of .056"....

ben62.jpg


Zuk's notes say you cannot install 2 on a side as pictured above. He tried it and the smaller size gets crushed when you put in the larger shim.

ben61.jpg


ben60.jpg


-Mike-
 
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Dropped off the diffs at U-Joints this afternoon. Tom gave me a quick tour of the shop. Quite a nice setup he has there.

I thought the above 9" Toyota rear diff was big and heavy. I was mistaken. Wish I had the camera because they work on some really BIG diffs.

If brown delivers on schedule then I should get the gears and install kits to them on Monday. He says they have a lot of shims and can use or make whatever they need. After looking at it, he thinks they have done 1 other rear diff like mine. :fingers-crossed:

-Mike-
 
What's the cost per diff?
 
$220 per diff I think. I have several prices written down from different quotes and they were all in the same ballpark. I was driving and on the cell phone when I was getting the quote from Tom at U-Joints so I don't have the price written down. He is a very straight-up guy and I am confident that the price will be reasonable.

I will post up the final price after I pick them up. UPS is scheduled to deliver the gears on Monday.

It was comical watching me load those things in the bed of the Tacoma on my lunch break. Did I mention that the rear diff was a bit on the heavy side? There is no way in hell that I can lift that thing and stuff it back in the pumpkin. Maybe 20 years ago... :frown:

We're gonna need the Shawn-jack, the Ali-jack, the Rory-jack, and the Onur-jack. Plus the tranny jack. :D

-Mike-
 
Mike,

If i'm available I can help out. And I would like to see the inards (sp) as well anyway.

Call me,

G
 
Great!

If we drop the rear diff into the face of the Shawn-jack we'll have an ER doc handy! :D

-Mike-
 
There you go. A backup no matter what happens...
 
It was comical watching me load those things in the bed of the Tacoma on my lunch break. Did I mention that the rear diff was a bit on the heavy side? There is no way in hell that I can lift that thing and stuff it back in the pumpkin. Maybe 20 years ago... :frown:

About 70-80 lbs if I remember correctly, vs a mini-truck at about 50lbs.
 
It was comical watching me load those things in the bed of the Tacoma on my lunch break. Did I mention that the rear diff was a bit on the heavy side? There is no way in hell that I can lift that thing and stuff it back in the pumpkin. Maybe 20 years ago... :frown:


-Mike-


Time to hit the weight room.

True story-I think those diffs are damn heavy too, but I lifted one in freehand, lying in the dirt under my FJ40, after breaking a rear axle and disassembling the whole thing to get the bits out. I felt like one of those 90 lb moms who lift a car that's fallen on their kid.

When you do put it back in, be very careful with the thin paper gasket-they tend to tear near the thin part. It really sucks to get it back together and have a small persistant leak.
 
When you do put it back in, be very careful with the thin paper gasket-they tend to tear near the thin part. It really sucks to get it back together and have a small persistant leak.

True, the one I installed in my 40 leaks, and it hasn't been around the block. Mike, I'll bring the tranny jack AND an tube of Toyota "RTV" and you can loose the paper gasket.
 
About 70-80 lbs if I remember correctly, vs a mini-truck at about 50lbs.

Rear is 85+ lbs with electric locker mechanism attached and I didn't take that part off. I will put it on the scales when it comes back.

I have a new tube of 102 (FIPG); pn 00295-00103
I believe there are 2 types of Toyota RTV/FIPG and I don't know if this is the right stuff. I was going to check with Dan when I order the bits that I need to install.
-Mike-
 
The rear is right at 100 lbs.

00295-00103 is the engine stuff (black). 00295-01281 is the gearbox orange stuff.
 
Onur says I should replace the brass bushings in both spindles. I haven't looked at them closely but I will probably replace them depending on the cost. I am going to clean up everything tomorrow and come up with a parts list.

So, let's talk about these. I know the bushings on the 4Runner are toast. I have new ones, and they were not too bad $$ wise. But how do they get removed and replaced? And, who can do it?

OK, so my do-list is quite long this weekend, but I decided to try this. After all, I bought the bushings from Dan about 2 years ago :eek:.

First spindle: I cut on two sides. One gentle smack with a punch from the inside and they were on the floor in two pieces.

Second spindle: I only cut on one side, and not as deep as the first. It took a few more whacks, but it came out in one piece.

Forget the hacksaw folks. I used an air saber saw (body saw). Worked good.

My vice was not big enough to press them in so I used the intact bushing as a driver and smacked them in with a 2lb BFH. No problem after they lined up. Then I remembered Dan saying something about having them "machined." I grabbed a spare birfield and sure 'nuff it wouldn't go in. A few minutes with a brake hone did the trick, though the bronze really gummed up the stones.

Over all, :banana::banana:
 
Wow, 100#s? Maybe I did use the floor jack to help me out!
 
We used a jack when we stabbed Juane's rear diff.
 
Wow, 100#s? Maybe I did use the floor jack to help me out!

What he meant was...."Don't call the Ali-jack for help".:flipoff2:

G
 
The gears and install kits arrived. I dropped everything off at U-Joints around 9:30am. Tom wasn't there so I didn't get a chance to get an ETA. I also printed them the FSM pages and Zuk's install of Bear80's gears with all the pictures and notes.

Here is some interesting information... The gears were made by Motive which is a well-known brand. (R&P for both F&R) They were in a Precision Gear box. I have found out this is quite common. Some have found US Gear as the manufacturer in a Precision Gear box. The install kit for the front was shipped from the Motive location in Ohio (IIRC.) The install kit for the rear was piece-meal and shipped from Washington. The Motive install kit has Koyo bearings. One of the rear bearings (from WA) was a Timken; the rest were Koyo bearings.

-Mike-
 
We used a jack when we stabbed Juane's rear diff.

I pulled and reinstalled my 3rd by myself when I had the ARB put in. I let some air out of the tires to lower the truck and then layed on a creeper to position myself. Pretty much used my whole body to force the thing onto the axle. Not a fun job by yourself but doable.
 

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