Regear 8-speed from 3.3 to 3.9?

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I'd definitely take Slee's recommendation here. They've probably setup more 200-series cruisers than anyone else.

This is good advice.
 
All really sound advice. I had a few reasons that I wanted to go to e-lockers but the main one being that a friend of mine works for a division of Eaton and he thinks he can get the lockers for me at cost...

That being said, I may have to reconsider Slee and the air lockers.

Thanks everyone for the replies.
 
I didnt think 4.30's were an option. I thought it was 4.1's that were an option from the 4.6L Tundra. I thought 4.30's were exclusive to the 10.5" 5.7L Tundra axle.

That said, if you plan on only running 35's I agree that 3.90s are good. The 8th gear in the 8 speed is not that tall(compared to other 8 or 10 speed truck transmissions) and so you will end up spinning a lot of RPM if you run the 4.1's or 4.3's.
 
All really sound advice. I had a few reasons that I wanted to go to e-lockers but the main one being that a friend of mine works for a division of Eaton and he thinks he can get the lockers for me at cost...

That being said, I may have to reconsider Slee and the air lockers.

Thanks everyone for the replies.

I'm a proponent of e-lockers. Simpler and more reliable IMO. It only requires 12V to engage. Whereas air lockers require 12V + air pump to engage. If you're a hard core rock-crawler/racer, than the ARB air locker may be more robust (not to be confused with reliable).

I didnt think 4.30's were an option. I thought it was 4.1's that were an option from the 4.6L Tundra. I thought 4.30's were exclusive to the 10.5" 5.7L Tundra axle.

That said, if you plan on only running 35's I agree that 3.90s are good. The 8th gear in the 8 speed is not that tall(compared to other 8 or 10 speed truck transmissions) and so you will end up spinning a lot of RPM if you run the 4.1's or 4.3's.

I run 4.3s. They're available OEM and were factory rear gearing for some model years of the 100-series.
 
I'm a proponent of e-lockers. Simpler and more reliable IMO. It only requires 12V to engage. Whereas air lockers require 12V + air pump to engage. If you're a hard core rock-crawler/racer, than the ARB air locker may be more robust (not to be confused with reliable).



I run 4.3s. They're available OEM and were factory rear gearing for some model years of the 100-series.
Ah ok.

Well there is a 4.10 option too then. The 4.6L Tundra with the tow package had them in the 9.5" axle.
 
Ah ok.

Well there is a 4.10 option too then. The 4.6L Tundra with the tow package had them in the 9.5" axle.
If you can find 4.10 front and rear Toyota gears that’s not a horrible option on the 8 speed with 35s I think. It’s more gear than you need, but you’re talking about 5% difference between 3.90 and 4.10, and you’ll get Toyota quality. My Nitro gears have been ok for 45k or whatever but there’s definitely more metal particulate in a gear oil change than I think should be there, so I don’t see them going 500k miles. Hopefully I’m wrong.
 
If you can find 4.10 front and rear Toyota gears that’s not a horrible option on the 8 speed with 35s I think. It’s more gear than you need, but you’re talking about 5% difference between 3.90 and 4.10, and you’ll get Toyota quality. My Nitro gears have been ok for 45k or whatever but there’s definitely more metal particulate in a gear oil change than I think should be there, so I don’t see them going 500k miles. Hopefully I’m wrong.
I had found 4.10 3rd members at the local pick n pull.

We did talk about this in the Towing thread though and people didnt seem to think going to 4.10's was a good idea unless you went to 37's. Im still on the fence. I do wish our 8 speed had a little bit taller 8th because that would make the decision a bit easier. If it was a .65 or .63:1 8th gear like the ZF 8 speed or Ford 10 speed, the 4.10's wouldnt be so bad.

I look at other manufacturers and they are running shorter gearing. Ram has 3.92's in the RHO, Ford had 4.10's in the F150 Raptor, the Ranger Raptor is running 4.27's, and the Bronco runs 4.70's. Wranglers are running 4.10's or 4.56's. All of them with 8 or 10 speeds with similar ratios to the 2016+ 200.
 
I'll second (or third) the opinion that 3.909 is a great upgrade for the 3.307 16+ 8-speed models. That is by far our most popular re-gear, we've done dozens of them this way including the entire Expeditions7-200 Maltec fleet. They drive extremely well with that combo!

We've done 3.91, 4.10, 4.30 and 4.88 on other 200's, there isn't a single best answer imo but for many 16+ owners, the 3.91 is great.

We stock complete built front and rear 3.91 diffs with your choice of open (stock), ARB or Eaton E-Lockers, these have been great options for those that can comfortably install the diff assembly but are not comfortable with the gear and locker setup.

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I'll second (or third) the opinion that 3.909 is a great upgrade for the 3.307 16+ 8-speed models. That is by far our most popular re-gear, we've done dozens of them this way including the entire Expeditions7-200 Maltec fleet. They drive extremely well with that combo!

We've done 3.91, 4.10, 4.30 and 4.88 on other 200's, there isn't a single best answer imo but for many 16+ owners, the 3.91 is great.

We stock complete built front and rear 3.91 diffs with your choice of open (stock), ARB or Eaton E-Lockers, these have been great options for those that can comfortably install the diff assembly but are not comfortable with the gear and locker setup.

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I now know what I’m asking Santa for this year.
 
Question for you all, if I’m regeared to 3.9 on the 8 speed and install a set of portal axles with the 22% reduction, would 40s be the ideal tire size to maintain closest to stock ratio?
 
If you can find 4.10 front and rear Toyota gears that’s not a horrible option on the 8 speed with 35s I think. It’s more gear than you need, but you’re talking about 5% difference between 3.90 and 4.10, and you’ll get Toyota quality. My Nitro gears have been ok for 45k or whatever but there’s definitely more metal particulate in a gear oil change than I think should be there, so I don’t see them going 500k miles. Hopefully I’m wrong.

Big picture - 4.1s aren't just 5% more, when 3.9s are already 18% more gearing than stock 3.307s on the 8-speed.

Even with 37s, 3.9s on the 8-speed is still going to be geared 4.5% more than stock. That's already a lot in my opinion.
 
Big picture - 4.1s aren't just 5% more, when 3.9s are already 18% more gearing than stock 3.307s on the 8-speed.

Even with 37s, 3.9s on the 8-speed is still going to be geared 4.5% more than stock. That's already a lot in my opinion.
Given I run 4.88s on 35s, which is similar to 3.90 on the 8 speed, I’d say 5% less gearing would be preferred but 5% more would still be driveable. But I don’t think there’s a reason to go higher either. And I get your point… TBH on the 6 speed somewhere 4.30 to 4.56 is ideal depending on the build, unless you’re on 37s.
 
Question for you all, if I’m regeared to 3.9 on the 8 speed and install a set of portal axles with the 22% reduction, would 40s be the ideal tire size to maintain closest to stock ratio?
Well, if stock ratio is what you are going for, the 3.3 to 3.9 is 18%. The portals are 22%. So 40% combined. 31" tires x 1.40 = 43.4" tires. But stock ratio may not really be what you want. Large tires or 40" tires have added rolling resistance, weight and wind resistance, given the total height increase of the vehicle.
 
I think for the average person off road with 34's or 35's the 3.90 and the 8 speed is ideal.

Myself I have 34's the 8 speed with 4.88's and lockers front and rear, but I'm running really heavy.
Front and rear bumpers, skids and sliders, drawer kits, 40 gallon aux fuel, fridge gear, winch, and a roof rack loaded.
Plus hauling a 3500 lb off road trailer up some mining shelf road of blown quartz which has never been maintained.
I've never had much luck with the crawl control going up hill on loose quartz.

I've been very happy with the 4.88's "BUT" traveling distance on the highway at 80+ kiss any good mileage good bye.
Off road the mileage and power with 4.88's has exceptional.
Hwy's the 3.9 would be better.
 
Love my 2019 LC with 4.3's and ARB's - sitting on almost 34's, and loaded with accessories. Great on the highway (passes vehicles with ease), doesn't hunt for the right gear, and yet about perfect off road.
 
I just did a ~700 mile trip on the 3.9 gears and Eaton lockers on my 8 speed supercharged LX on 35s and the truck feels absolutely perfect even loaded up with tons of gear (RTT, rack, tables, drawers, fridge, kayak, 3 people, etc). Slightly more pull vs the stock 3.3. I wouldn’t hesitate going to 4.3 gears if I was going to 37s or larger tires.
 
I just did a ~700 mile trip on the 3.9 gears and Eaton lockers on my 8 speed supercharged LX on 35s and the truck feels absolutely perfect even loaded up with tons of gear (RTT, rack, tables, drawers, fridge, kayak, 3 people, etc). Slightly more pull vs the stock 3.3. I wouldn’t hesitate going to 4.3 gears if I was going to 37s or larger tires.
Thanks for the feedback.
 
I’ve already accepted the fact that 3.9’s are in my future. Every time I hear these first hand reports I get more motivated.
 
I have a set of 3.9's in my shop inexpensive. If your interested post me a PM.

They are actual from another member here and in really nice shape... I bought them, got them shipped me then decided to go higher gearing.
Certainly a wise selection if you're not hauling mining equipment.

FYI it you have a 2016+ and want ;lockers you need to re-gear as the new 2016+ gears on the FRONT diff are too thick/wide to fit lockers.
 

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