bloc
SILVER Star
I'd definitely take Slee's recommendation here. They've probably setup more 200-series cruisers than anyone else.
This is good advice.
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'd definitely take Slee's recommendation here. They've probably setup more 200-series cruisers than anyone else.
All really sound advice. I had a few reasons that I wanted to go to e-lockers but the main one being that a friend of mine works for a division of Eaton and he thinks he can get the lockers for me at cost...
That being said, I may have to reconsider Slee and the air lockers.
Thanks everyone for the replies.
I didnt think 4.30's were an option. I thought it was 4.1's that were an option from the 4.6L Tundra. I thought 4.30's were exclusive to the 10.5" 5.7L Tundra axle.
That said, if you plan on only running 35's I agree that 3.90s are good. The 8th gear in the 8 speed is not that tall(compared to other 8 or 10 speed truck transmissions) and so you will end up spinning a lot of RPM if you run the 4.1's or 4.3's.
Ah ok.I'm a proponent of e-lockers. Simpler and more reliable IMO. It only requires 12V to engage. Whereas air lockers require 12V + air pump to engage. If you're a hard core rock-crawler/racer, than the ARB air locker may be more robust (not to be confused with reliable).
I run 4.3s. They're available OEM and were factory rear gearing for some model years of the 100-series.
If you can find 4.10 front and rear Toyota gears that’s not a horrible option on the 8 speed with 35s I think. It’s more gear than you need, but you’re talking about 5% difference between 3.90 and 4.10, and you’ll get Toyota quality. My Nitro gears have been ok for 45k or whatever but there’s definitely more metal particulate in a gear oil change than I think should be there, so I don’t see them going 500k miles. Hopefully I’m wrong.Ah ok.
Well there is a 4.10 option too then. The 4.6L Tundra with the tow package had them in the 9.5" axle.
I had found 4.10 3rd members at the local pick n pull.If you can find 4.10 front and rear Toyota gears that’s not a horrible option on the 8 speed with 35s I think. It’s more gear than you need, but you’re talking about 5% difference between 3.90 and 4.10, and you’ll get Toyota quality. My Nitro gears have been ok for 45k or whatever but there’s definitely more metal particulate in a gear oil change than I think should be there, so I don’t see them going 500k miles. Hopefully I’m wrong.
I now know what I’m asking Santa for this year.I'll second (or third) the opinion that 3.909 is a great upgrade for the 3.307 16+ 8-speed models. That is by far our most popular re-gear, we've done dozens of them this way including the entire Expeditions7-200 Maltec fleet. They drive extremely well with that combo!
We've done 3.91, 4.10, 4.30 and 4.88 on other 200's, there isn't a single best answer imo but for many 16+ owners, the 3.91 is great.
We stock complete built front and rear 3.91 diffs with your choice of open (stock), ARB or Eaton E-Lockers, these have been great options for those that can comfortably install the diff assembly but are not comfortable with the gear and locker setup.
View attachment 3848808
![]()
Front Differential Assembly - 3.909 - Fits 09/2007+ URJ200/LX570 Applications (DIFF60B81)
Front Differential Assembly - 3.90 - Fits 09/2007+ URJ200/LX570 Applications (DIFF60B81)cruiserteq.com
View attachment 3848805
![]()
Rear Differential Assembly - 3.909 - Fits 09/2007+ URJ200/LX570 Applications (DIFF60A11)
Rear Differential Assembly - Fits 09/2007+ URJ200/LX570 Applications (DIFF60A11)cruiserteq.com
If you can find 4.10 front and rear Toyota gears that’s not a horrible option on the 8 speed with 35s I think. It’s more gear than you need, but you’re talking about 5% difference between 3.90 and 4.10, and you’ll get Toyota quality. My Nitro gears have been ok for 45k or whatever but there’s definitely more metal particulate in a gear oil change than I think should be there, so I don’t see them going 500k miles. Hopefully I’m wrong.
Given I run 4.88s on 35s, which is similar to 3.90 on the 8 speed, I’d say 5% less gearing would be preferred but 5% more would still be driveable. But I don’t think there’s a reason to go higher either. And I get your point… TBH on the 6 speed somewhere 4.30 to 4.56 is ideal depending on the build, unless you’re on 37s.Big picture - 4.1s aren't just 5% more, when 3.9s are already 18% more gearing than stock 3.307s on the 8-speed.
Even with 37s, 3.9s on the 8-speed is still going to be geared 4.5% more than stock. That's already a lot in my opinion.
Well, if stock ratio is what you are going for, the 3.3 to 3.9 is 18%. The portals are 22%. So 40% combined. 31" tires x 1.40 = 43.4" tires. But stock ratio may not really be what you want. Large tires or 40" tires have added rolling resistance, weight and wind resistance, given the total height increase of the vehicle.Question for you all, if I’m regeared to 3.9 on the 8 speed and install a set of portal axles with the 22% reduction, would 40s be the ideal tire size to maintain closest to stock ratio?
Thanks for the feedback.I just did a ~700 mile trip on the 3.9 gears and Eaton lockers on my 8 speed supercharged LX on 35s and the truck feels absolutely perfect even loaded up with tons of gear (RTT, rack, tables, drawers, fridge, kayak, 3 people, etc). Slightly more pull vs the stock 3.3. I wouldn’t hesitate going to 4.3 gears if I was going to 37s or larger tires.