Regear 8-speed from 3.3 to 3.9?

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I am running 8spd. 4.30’s, 34’s. I am also on Harrop.
Damn, have you been to sea level and done any 4wheel burn outs yet??

Side note, from what I've been told, doing the gears on the 8-speed AE80F is the best mod you can do to help protect your transmission long term when adding power, bigger tires, and/or heavy towing etc.

For the AB60F guys there is now an upgraded valve body. From what I know @Cruisers and Co here is Colorado is offering via Wholesale Automatics in Australia.
 
Damn, have you been to sea level and done any 4wheel burn outs yet??

Side note, from what I've been told, doing the gears on the 8-speed AE80F is the best mod you can do to help protect your transmission long term when adding power, bigger tires, and/or heavy towing etc.

For the AB60F guys there is now an upgraded valve body. From what I know @Cruisers and Co here is Colorado is offering via Wholesale Automatics in Australia.

Ha! No I have not tried it. 1st gear is so short and violent I never floor it from a stop. I worry it would overwhelm the trans honestly.

It’s pretty funny when you floor it from a normal cruise however. It pulls pretty hard for a vehicle of its size. It reminds me of a Range Rover supercharged in the way it pulls.

Chris
 
For the AB60F guys there is now an upgraded valve body. From what I know @Cruisers and Co here is Colorado is offering via Wholesale Automatics in Australia.
This is correct. Firmer shifts, holds power better, reduces temps. Supercharged/Turbocharged Tundra 2nd and 3rd gen guys are loving them!
 
Ha! No I have not tried it. 1st gear is so short and violent I never floor it from a stop. I worry it would overwhelm the trans honestly.

It’s pretty funny when you floor it from a normal cruise however. It pulls pretty hard for a vehicle of its size. It reminds me of a Range Rover supercharged in the way it pulls.

Chris
You gain how much, 100HP, with the Harrop?
 
You gain how much, 100HP, with the Harrop?

IMG_0209.png
 
You gain how much, 100HP, with the Harrop?

+>40% is a better way to look at it. Also note that Harrop provides this data saying their 2650 "kit" does not need a tune. If you add TRD or other aftermarket injectors and a tune from OTT, or @snivilous who is the go to for most all the Tundra guys, running much much smaller pulleys than the stock unit you will find you can hit 570hp at the crank I'm sure. Sniv has over 300,000 miles on his supercharged Tundra which I wanna say was SC way back since 50,000 or something and he has big tires and tows a lot.
 
I would do a tune on any supercharged setup. I've done datalogs with "stage 1" Harrops where they don't have a tune, and there is a ton of knock retard happening. Which isn't strictly a "the engines gonna blow" issue, but it means you're constantly operating with the safety net of knock retard activating. I prefer to setup tunes where they rarely are using knock retard, just like fuel trims being kept to a minimal, so when you do actually need the truck to pull timing it has the full capability of that safety net to bring to bear. Plus tuning the truck will add in a lot of other features, torque limits reduced so you get the full juice from the blower, MUCH BETTER fueling (stock power enrichment isn't until 70deg of throttle angle, I like that to be max 35deg so right as boost comes in you get enrichment), tire size corrections, speed governor removed, etc. A tune does a lot outside of correcting timing, but that's the biggest issue with a non-tuned supercharger setup. In my opinion Harrop shouldn't even offer that.

And while I'm writing a novel, if you're at high elevation, definitely get a smaller pulley. A supercharger has compounding losses at elevation----the base naturally aspirated horsepower drops, but then the supercharger itself cannot flow as much air (since there's less air to begin with). So you end up with a supercharger that makes less boost, but more of that boost goes to correcting the N/A losses. Your supercharger that makes 7psi at sea level might make 5psi now, and 2psi is used to correct the N/A power loss, so your effective boost (as if it were at sea level) is only 3psi. I am a big advocate of cranking the pulley size, so much so I designed my own pulley setup for the Magnusons (which don't have pulley support like the Harrops) so I could get some semblance of performance out of my TRD 1900 unit (and then people asked me to sell those and now there's a variety of Toyota pulley setups I sell for high elevation people).

My Tundra is a 2008 and rolled 305k the other day and has been supercharged for the past 90k+. It has 35s, 5.29s, injectors, fuel pump, etc. and made 490whp/580tq to the tire and sees full boost every time I take it out. The tune makes or breaks it, and the 5.7 is known to have ring gap issues so you have to run the engine (relatively) rich to keep the pistons cool and stop the ring expansion. If you do that, the engine is extremely reliable even under boost and up to 10-12psi.
 
I’ve placed my 3.9 gear order, now the waiting begins. Thanks for everyone chiming in with their thoughts and opinions, it all adds up and really makes sense for the switch.

I’ll be eyeballing some type forced induction in another 40-50k miles. That will put me at or about 100k and 10 years of ownership. By then, it should be just getting broke in.
 
I’ve been out of the tuning game for some time. Is there a tuning option now for 16+ 200’s?

Chris
Yep, VF Tuner platform allows tuning of the '16+. Mines an '18 I've had a Harrop on it for 3 years this October. First full year was untuned. I lived at 10,000 ft so I never got even close to hitting full boost. I have around 45,000 miles on it with the SC and 37" tires. I'm still on the stock 85mm pulley and chose to add the blower for 10k when I saw regrearing was 5k. Now I inevitably want to do my gears anyway since I live at altitude, have oversize tires, and tow 8,200lbs.

I also have a 77.5mm pulley I want to put in along with a standalone AFR gauge and then have Snivilous tune it....someday soon.

It's good to see that chart I was thinking 4.3 all the way, but 3.9 would be a solid choice to be able to run 39/40's and still swap back to 35's or smaller for towing like @TeCKis300 is doing and be able to run fast on the highway.
 

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