Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
make sense dude .. the only reason to hate bl in my experience it broke you body floor.
Reducing Body Roll assist (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter PKP80
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make sense dude .. the only reason to hate bl in my experience it broke you body floor.
fit some removable straps and strap the uphill side of the truck to limit droop
hey pk, i run slees six inch spring and can understand what your going through although your higher than I. I ditched stock sway bars but am not leaning towards some how setting up some custom sway aways. Sway bars are actually helpfull when set up right. Our problem is trying to make stock sway bars work with 6-7 inches of lift....
i started with J's, went to slee six inch springs and am now leaning towards some serious body trimming and going to the 5 inch OME comp springs. I have been running this set up for a few years and know that in your situation you really need to bring that truck down. lower you bump stops. Ditch the spacers, at least in the rear as i dont see the need. If you move your shock placement you can still have plenty of down travel.
best of luck....
i started with J's, went to slee six inch springs and am now leaning towards some serious body trimming and going to the 5 inch OME comp springs. I have been running this set up for a few years and know that in your situation you really need to bring that truck down. lower you bump stops. Ditch the spacers, at least in the rear as i dont see the need. If you move your shock placement you can still have plenty of down travel.
best of luck....
A buddy of mine is running air/hydraulic rams as his shock/spring that he custom built. He's got an on board compressor and some air valves. When off camber, from inside the cab, he can let air our of the "high" side to help level him out, or add air to the "low" side for the same effect.
I'd go the easy route and lower it. Or drop the suspension lift and add body lift to fit the tires.
I'd go the easy route and lower it. Or drop the suspension lift and add body lift to fit the tires.
i think there are some land rovers that are all air suspension and have a computer that adjusts air to each bag automatically to reduce body roll. has anyone heard of this or something similar. just thinking a setup like this might work.
- Thread starter
- #26
Thanks for the continued help and opinions guys... I"m working on a few things.
Individually controlled air bags?
there must be a vehicle that adjusts automatically. i think the rover has a dial that can be turned to adjust height and a computer with some sort of gyro unit that will self level the computer, i dont know where i heard this, maybe it was a different vehicle. actually dont some of the lexus's have airbags now that i thi nk of it.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
I thought you can do it manual for some specific situations .. but how much can raise a off road air bag . ?
Airbags
Amazingly the airbags have a pretty large range. There is a nice buildup on Pirate that shows a 4runner being built with an Airrock system that self levels as well as allows for manual control.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306807&page=37
Ryan.
Amazingly the airbags have a pretty large range. There is a nice buildup on Pirate that shows a 4runner being built with an Airrock system that self levels as well as allows for manual control.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306807&page=37
Ryan.
Bags are a neat idea. But to be automatic you need a fairly hefty logic circuit. Probably a bit on the extreme (with good chances of failure) side for a rockcrawler. The Rover stuff is neat but again, it is a very complex system and does not hold up well to off road use. It is simply too delicate.
By switching to airbags you could easily jsut bump up a side manually in underware bunching situations.. But, it takes a lot of valves to set up properly.
Air bags can give you the adjustable ride height that you would desire. Plus, at lower height settings they typically have a higher spring rate (how much of an increase really depends on the bell shape).
Bags might be a good option. But, they are expensive to set up properly.
Easier to cut the fenders and lower the rig to tell the truth..
By switching to airbags you could easily jsut bump up a side manually in underware bunching situations.. But, it takes a lot of valves to set up properly.
Air bags can give you the adjustable ride height that you would desire. Plus, at lower height settings they typically have a higher spring rate (how much of an increase really depends on the bell shape).
Bags might be a good option. But, they are expensive to set up properly.
Easier to cut the fenders and lower the rig to tell the truth..
Coil assist bags that go inside the springs, stiffen up the downhill side and let out on the uphill, just have a large compressor or tank and quick electronic valves.
My 55 on coils was way too floppy on the street. The shocks are inboarded quite a way. I could move them out toward the spring perches and angle them a bit to help with body roll, but I'm not sure how much axle movement I'll lose for how much stability I would gain. Any thoughts?
I fabbed up a anti-sway bar from an 80 series bar and some heims. I just took it on a test drive. I was increasing the speed while turning slowly. At about 25 it was still pretty stable. About then I broke the tack welds on one side where the link was attached to the axle. It went back to not really road safe after that. I will definitely be making them permanent.
It was good to have the back to back test drive. The sway bar makes a huge difference on the road. I think the sway bars on the 80s are why they can get so twisted up and still have a very level body on the trail.
I fabbed up a anti-sway bar from an 80 series bar and some heims. I just took it on a test drive. I was increasing the speed while turning slowly. At about 25 it was still pretty stable. About then I broke the tack welds on one side where the link was attached to the axle. It went back to not really road safe after that. I will definitely be making them permanent.
It was good to have the back to back test drive. The sway bar makes a huge difference on the road. I think the sway bars on the 80s are why they can get so twisted up and still have a very level body on the trail.
Depending on the shock you will not notice much of a difference in body roll by different mounting locations. They are designed to slow the suspensions reactions, so they will just allow flow and you will still lean. IF you go with a charged shock you MIGHT see a slight improvment.. You will gain considerable dampening ability if you move them outboard tho.. How much articulation do you want out of the rear? I have 15" shocks that lie inside the rear fenderwells. And still get stupid rear articulation..
Sway bars are a godsend on the road. Not so great on the trail unless they are a torsion type bar...
The inner coil airbags are more for load capacity. They do not do much by way of flex.. the uphill side would still want to unload..
Too high of a roll center.
Sway bars are a godsend on the road. Not so great on the trail unless they are a torsion type bar...
The inner coil airbags are more for load capacity. They do not do much by way of flex.. the uphill side would still want to unload..
Too high of a roll center.
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Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
Few years ago ( 2003 ) I saw in Costa Rica one 40 with truck air suspension .. it can raise ( not really much ) about 10" each corner when it wants ..
But on the trail it have problem coz one brank on the trail make a hole in one bag ..
But on the trail it have problem coz one brank on the trail make a hole in one bag ..
Ever get anywhere with this PK?
- Thread starter
- #37
I got somewhere as far as knowing what I am going to do. Now the trouble is getting the cash to do it.
Solution:
I'm throwing a axle winch in the rear (thread on that somewhere) and stiffening up the shock setup so as not to compensate so much when off camber. As i've said before driving at speed in the desert, dune, and street the truck for an 80 and Solid axle front is amazing, I love it. it's the fine tuning to get it to where it will be okay in above situations and also better in the rocks....Why not just the rocks b/c in some instances there is close to 750 miles before I get to the trail and I like to drive there (not that I have a choice). I'll post when it is hopefully completed with results one of these days.
Sam
I currently do not run fronts but i don run them in the rear. My rears have been modiefied , glad i have them. i run bielstien 7100's in the rear as well. I have no issue with rear other than my springs are a little stiff.. need to carry more gear or go lighter spring. I cant say i never lift a rear tire but i can say its a part of my rig i am basically done messign with as it perfroms well enough.
I now want to run something up fron as well. maybe some currie anti rocks. I am really impressed with these on my buddies Heeps.
The winch is a good idea for ascents and descents but going off camber will only help if its not twisty.....
http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/antirock.aspx
- Thread starter
- #39
sickboy...I've thought about the antirocks...actually inspired by the "terrible herbst" truggie...(if you watch baja) I don't know if I will take it that route because I still have another phase of suspension I plan on doing to the truck, which will consist of coilovers, lots of cutting into the fenders (maybe some Lipo to the upper body of the truck). it will be at least a couple of years before that. Look forward to seeing you do that to the truck...looks like it works well. thanks for the tip
wont you still need some sort of sway protection with coil overs?. or are you saying because your going to sawzall that you will go lower and it wont be as much of an issue?
If going lower, the front is easy to hack, for rear take a look here. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294861939+115+4294789118 I am pretty happy with my set up but if i ever go drastic this would be the route to lower 2 inches, 39's, coils..... someone needs to make some high clearance fiberglass fenders like this.... http://www.glassworksunlimited.com/shop/product.php?productid=81&cat=22&page=1
If going lower, the front is easy to hack, for rear take a look here. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294861939+115+4294789118 I am pretty happy with my set up but if i ever go drastic this would be the route to lower 2 inches, 39's, coils..... someone needs to make some high clearance fiberglass fenders like this.... http://www.glassworksunlimited.com/shop/product.php?productid=81&cat=22&page=1
