Builds "Rednexus" - 2007 GX470 Build and Fabrication Thread (20 Viewers)

[Rednexus]

Almost 4 years! The air line on the right side came out once when I had it really twisted up. No problem since. I keep about 5 psi empty then 15-18 towing the Miata. Sometimes a little more if it’s heavier.
You might need a little more towing that camper depending on tongue weight and cargo. Night and day difference, a lot more stable.

Glad to hear! I'm hoping to ditch the WDH. I towed a number of 4-5K cargo/flatbed trailers without it and they were honestly fine other than a saggy rear. My camper is only 3K empty and 4K tops loaded. The WDH is a pain to setup/tear down and adds a lot of tongue weight itself.

 

[kody472]

Glad to hear! I'm hoping to ditch the WDH. I towed a number of 4-5K cargo/flatbed trailers without it and they were honestly fine other than a saggy rear. My camper is only 3K empty and 4K tops loaded. The WDH is a pain to setup/tear down and adds a lot of tongue weight itself.

My camper weighs roughly the same and I've never had a WDH. I do have the Airbagman bags that definitely prevent sag. You should be just fine without that bulky hitch now with your new setup.

 

[Rednexus]

My camper weighs roughly the same and I've never had a WDH. I do have the Airbagman bags that definitely prevent sag. You should be just fine without that bulky hitch now with your new setup.

That's great to hear as well. My wife will certainly love ditching the WDH as she despises the violent behavior and "POP" the WDH bars make when we unhook.

In hindsight, the Airbagman bags and retaining the OE pump like you did is probably the better way to go for a GX with substantial towing duties. I do like the coils otherwise, and initially ditched the bags before we had any plans of getting a camper.

 

[wrmathis]

View attachment 3917606
^Have the back end totally finished and filled with Lucas 85W140 per ECGS recommendations. Airbags are at 35 psi and holding steady. Toyota rear e-brakes are torture instruments. The first one was 1+ hours of futzing around - with Mrs. Rednexus again saving the day. The second one took 25 minutes.
View attachment 3917608
^The front is soooo much easier. Had the diff out in maybe 90 minutes, taking my time.

Plan A is to have the diffs done on Saturday and have the alternator, cable upgrades, radiator, and trans cooler done on Sunday. We'll see if that holds.

The ebrake s*** pissed me off to when I put the 9.5” back there. Until I found an easier way to get those stupid pieces that old s*** in place with the springs. Dunno wtf they called at the moment but damn trying to get them back together sucked u til I realized an easier way to go about it.

 

[Rednexus]

The ebrake s*** pissed me off to when I put the 9.5” back there. Until I found an easier way to get those stupid pieces that old s*** in place with the springs. Dunno wtf they called at the moment but damn trying to get them back together sucked u til I realized an easier way to go about it.

We ended up putting mini-zipties on the springs to compress then. I'd then hold the spring pin in from the backside of the backing plate, and hold the shoe, while Mrs. Rednexus slid the spring and retainer over the pin and twisted it to lock. Then we snipped off the zip ties, and all were good.

The problem I had was that I took the old 8" apart on Monday to replace the wheel bearings. We didn't try the e-brakes until yesterday. Since both axles were stripped bare, I had nothing to go by on how to re-assemble them other than some photos/diagrams from online that I printed out. But, none of those were really specific about which side the shoe with the E-brake cable handle went on, and which way the adjuster goes. We made the mistake of starting on the PS side using the Toyota diagram, which is for the DS. So we initially put the shoe with the e-brake cable handle on the wrong side and had to re-do it couple of times.

 

[stupidchicken03]

Are you running a trailer brake controller in the 470?

After this last weekends trip, most of the friends have talked about getting some small camping trailers. My wife grew up with larger ones and has been interested in getting one for ourselves too. Ive not done much towing other than a random uhaul trailer once a decade lol.

 

[kody472]

Are you running a trailer brake controller in the 470?

After this last weekends trip, most of the friends have talked about getting some small camping trailers. My wife grew up with larger ones and has been interested in getting one for ourselves too. Ive not done much towing other than a random uhaul trailer once a decade lol.

I do. I run the RedArc one with a Bluewerks bezel on the left side of the dash to add an extra switch.

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Brake-Controller/Redarc/RED24FR.html

 

[Rednexus]

I have a Redarc Elite Tow-Pro elite as well. It's mounted under the lower dash support (below the steering column). For a long time I had the switch in the stock bezel (you can drill a hole to mount it), but now have it in my custom Blue Dog bezel.

Camping trailers/campers are great if you want to take the family. We use ours more than I thought we would. The GX is a surprisingly capable and comfortable tow vehicle, and we've un-hooked and gone wheeling before!

 

[wrmathis]

We ended up putting mini-zipties on the springs to compress then. I'd then hold the spring pin in from the backside of the backing plate, and hold the shoe, while Mrs. Rednexus slid the spring and retainer over the pin and twisted it to lock. Then we snipped off the zip ties, and all were good.

The problem I had was that I took the old 8" apart on Monday to replace the wheel bearings. We didn't try the e-brakes until yesterday. Since both axles were stripped bare, I had nothing to go by on how to re-assemble them other than some photos/diagrams from online that I printed out. But, none of those were really specific about which side the shoe with the E-brake cable handle went on, and which way the adjuster goes. We made the mistake of starting on the PS side using the Toyota diagram, which is for the DS. So we initially put the shoe with the e-brake cable handle on the wrong side and had to re-do it couple of times.

i put the pins and spring and cap in like it was suppose to be installed but with out the shoe, grabbed the spring with a pick, pull it torward me, then slide the shoe in behind the spring. amazingly that s*** worked perfectly

 

[Rednexus]

Worked for a few hours this morning and the underside is 99% buttoned up.

^Assembled 8" clamshell with my old axle tube, mounts, and breather plumbing.

^The inners finally ripped on my All-Pro extended travel CV boot kit. So I rebooted both of my OEM axles (190K on them now). The All-Pros lasted over 3 years, which is pretty good for CVs on a lifted Toyota. Next time this needs boots it will get a set of new or lightly used 5th gen 4Runner CVs, just due to this set having so many miles on them (and the 5th gen CVs supposedly being stronger).

^Front diff is installed/topped off, front suspension is reassembled, and everything is torqued to spec. It was a bit tricky getting the front diff hung as it has to go up at an awkward angle to clear the front crossmember, prior to rotating the rear mount into the other crossmember, but it was doable with me under the rig and Mrs. Rednexus running the floor jack.

 

[aztoytec]

Looks like the new shop is paying off!
What gear ratio did you use?

 

[Rednexus]

Looks like the new shop is paying off!
What gear ratio did you use?

4.56. I'd prefer 4.30 but it's not a choice for the 8.2. I'm expecting the unloaded MPG to be reduced, but to have much better towing and wheeling performance.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

4.56. I'd prefer 4.30 but it's not a choice for the 8.2. I'm expecting the unloaded MPG to be reduced, but to have much better towing and wheeling performance.

I’ve always been kinda confused as to what gets retained in the factory 8.2 housing when you regear to say 4.56 gears.

Since you got a new Toyota trussed 8.2 housing and aftermarket 4.56 gears, what else you retain from the factory in your case?

 

[Rednexus]

I’ve always been kinda confused as to what gets retained in the factory 8.2 housing when you regear to say 4.56 gears.

Since you got a new Toyota trussed 8.2 housing and aftermarket 4.56 gears, what else you retain from the factory in your case?

I re-used the following parts from my GX470:

-Axles, backing plates, brakes, and parking brakes. The wheel bearings could also be re-used; I just went ahead and replaced mine since they had 190K on them.
-Brake lines
- Speed sensor wiring
-Suspension links
-Panhard bar
-Sway bar end links (but not the sway bar as it is different).

I have an 8.2 core 3rd member from eBay that will be going back to ECGS. I presume they will use the cast iron center section, caps, the carrier (if whoever gets it does not use a locker), hardware, and other miscellaneous parts when they rebuild it and send it out for someone else's GX or 4Runner.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

So you just got the brand new 8.2” Toyota factory trussed housing, ECGS 4.56 fully assembled 3rd member, panhard bar, hardware, seals, and fluids.

Oh and the front 4.56.

Everything else you reused with the exception of the wheel bearings.

 

[Super]

Panhard bar doesn’t change. He did use a later model 4Runner sway bar to match up with the mounts on new axle housing.
I have a Nolathane sway bar still in the box, so the plan is to cut the mounts off the old housing and burn them onto the new. Have to see what I’m working with when the time comes.

 

[Rednexus]

So you just got the brand new 8.2” Toyota factory trussed housing, ECGS 4.56 fully assembled 3rd member, panhard bar, hardware, seals, and fluids.

Oh and the front 4.56.

Everything else you reused with the exception of the wheel bearings.

Yes. Needless to say this has been quite expensive, far beyond what is rational to invest into for an 18 year old rig with 190K on it. But, I love the rig and plan on keeping it for at least another 10 years . And, if it something unfortunate happens (i.e., it gets totaled by a distracted driver), I can move the lift, differentials, and other parts right over into a GX460 and not lose all of my investment.

Regarding the panhard bar, I did get a new one, just because my old one was kind of crusty/questionable, and a new one is so cheap. I could have re-used the old one but it also has 18-year old bushings in it.

 

[HomersCanyonero]

Yes. Needless to say this has been quite expensive, far beyond what is rational to invest into for an 18 year old rig with 190K on it. But, I love the rig and plan on keeping it for at least another 10 years . And, if it something unfortunate happens (i.e., it gets totaled by a distracted driver), I can move the lift, differentials, and other parts right over into a GX460 and not lose all of my investment.

Regarding the panhard bar, I did get a new one, just because my old one was kind of crusty/questionable, and a new one is so cheap. I could have re-used the old one but it also has 18-year old bushings in it.

Tell me about the irrational preventive maintenance I’ve done…for the love of the game!

I was on a flight with time on my hands and I added up my parts and labor for my 8.2” elocked upgarde.

I just wanted to compare prices for different journeys since mine was done at a shop.

GX470 E-Locked 8.2 and 4.56 Gears Upgrade Costs

TOTAL: $5606 and 4 days to complete in 2024

PARTS: $3455

• 2016 4R KDSS Factory ELocked 8.2” $1900; found by shop in SoCal; straight and no rust
• Revolution 4.56 Gears front/rear polished $1000
• Wiring harness with switch for factory elocker $277
• $279 Shop supplies and taxes

LABOR: $2150

• $1200 for regearing front and rear
• $800 to install the 8.2 elocked housing and swap in components including rear Nolathane 24mm HD sway bar, new sway bar brackets, OCD rear end links, elocker wiring, PCK, ebrake, backing plates, rear axles, 4R panhard bar, and all brake components
• $150 Alignment

 

[Rednexus]

Tell me about the irrational preventive maintenance I’ve done…for the love of the game!

I was on a flight with time on my hands and I added up my parts and labor for my 8.2” elocked upgarde.

I just wanted to compare prices for different journeys since mine was done at a shop.

GX470 E-Locked 8.2 and 4.56 Gears Upgrade Costs

TOTAL: $5606 and 4 days to complete in 2024

PARTS: $3455

• 2016 4R KDSS Factory ELocked 8.2” $1900; found by shop in SoCal; straight and no rust
• Revolution 4.56 Gears front/rear polished $1000
• Wiring harness with switch for factory elocker $277
• $279 Shop supplies and taxes

LABOR: $2150

• $1200 for regearing front and rear
• $800 to install the 8.2 elocked housing and swap in components including rear Nolathane 24mm HD sway bar, new sway bar brackets, OCD rear end links, elocker wiring, PCK, ebrake, backing plates, rear axles, 4R panhard bar, and all brake components
• $150 Alignment

I'll run my numbers after I get it finished up. I have the lockers 100% completed (including the wiring), completed the Big 3 wiring upgrade, and have the new CSF radiator most of the way in. But, I ran into a snag yesterday where my new DC Power Engineering alternator uses a 3-pin Denso connector instead of the OEM 4 pin connector (which only has 3 wires going into it...). Needless to say but that's not something I can easily find at a parts store here in the sticks, so I ordered one online and hope to have the rig running and driving tomorrow.

 

[Rednexus]

And it's alive! No problems other than the thermostat gasket O-ring that blew for some reason when I was topping off the coolant. O'Reilly's has a Japanese-made Fel-Pro for $7 and that problem was quickly fixed.

^Second leg of today's gear break in drives. First drive was 20 miles with a 35 minute cool-off, second drive was 30 miles. The difference going from OEM 3.73 to 4.56 gears is not drastic but is noticeable. The GX feels more responsive, shifts smoother (and sooner), and acceleration is more effortless. On the second leg of my drive, I was on a hilly/curvy 2-lane road. The GX stayed in 5th gear the whole time with the TCC locked and never once downshifted. With 3.73s on the same stretch of road at the same speed, the TCC would lock/unlock and it would need to shift into 4th on the steeper hills.

^Stayed relatively cool at the end of Leg 2. I'll put two more 50 mile legs on it tomorrow. Trying to have it broke in over the next 10 days or so.

^CSF radiator. This is a very, very nice piece and fits well. It does push the fan shroud back around 1/4", which interfered with my CAI. I ended softening the overflow reservoir with a heat gun to clearance it, and trimming off 1/4" of shroud with a utility knife. I also installed the Hayden 679 (no pics), which was exactly the same size as my old 678, so I was able to use my old bracket. This will help keep my trans from getting over-cooled in the winter.

^Big 3 wiring upgrade. I DIY'd this with some 1/0 gauge wire, which is honestly overkill. I would have been just fine with 2 ga wire. The OEM alternator power wire is really undersized - basically it's only 10 ga wires. I bet they get super hot when running my ARB twin and any other accessories. I have a short 1/0 stub going from the negative terminal to the body ground by the battery, then a longer 1/0 ground wire going to the engine block. I'm not happy with the battery terminals - cables are rubbing on the battery case - so I ordered some SDHQ terminals.

^DC Power Engineering 180 amp alternator. The Amazon 3-prong plug took just a few minutes to splice in and works perfectly. You can also see the other end of the "Big 3" cable. I ordered a terminal cover and will be installing it over both the 1/0 cable and the OEM twin 2-guage cable (which I retained and is still hooked up). FYI, It's really easy to swap the alternator when the radiator is removed. <30 minutes of work. My belt had some micro-cracks in it, so it was replaced as well.